I just went to Harbor Freight for one but using Amazon will save you some gas money.
Cheap, and works greatMy two things I look out for!
I just went to Harbor Freight for one but using Amazon will save you some gas money.
Cheap, and works greatMy two things I look out for!
Which probably means it doesn’t fit snug into the joint insert on the shaft, leaving a gap.Fits just fine it's just a shorter pin.
No it just means there are less threads up into the shaft. If it's enough to hold the original shaft it should be enough to hold the regular radial shaft.Which probably means it doesn’t fit snug into the joint insert on the shaft, leaving a gap.
No...Which probably means it doesn’t fit snug into the joint insert on the shaft, leaving a gap.
yea, that .004" can really knock someone out of stroke,,,,,,,,,,,,I would like to see what the manufacturer advertise the shaft diameter to what you actually got. I have a 12.4 Revo that is 12.55m. My personal preference was 12.5 and i was going to live with the 12.4 before i decided to buy it
It is amusing how pool players are about all this. I have aftermarket shafts that do not match up with the joint at all. It makes no difference at all in playability. They screw on tight and that is what counts.....yea, that .004" can really knock someone out of stroke,,,,,,,,,,,,
You want a digital electronic caliper…it’s not a very expensive.I gotta grab one of those measuring tools. Whatever they’re called lol.
You are right when you are just adding an additional shaft.It is amusing how pool players are about all this. I have aftermarket shafts that do not match up with the joint at all. It makes no difference at all in playability. They screw on tight and that is what counts.....
Yes sir. Funny though how little it takes to go from perfection to in your head stage.You are right when you are just adding an additional shaft.
But if it’s a new cue and the shafts don’t align, it’s just crap.
No cue maker that has talent & pride would sell such a cue.
But it’s fine if you go buy a 3rd party shaft you really wanted.
Personally, I’d never do it because if the two halves don’t align
seamlessly on my cues, it would just annoy the heck out of me.
But that’s just my peccadillo but the cue would play fine even
when the two collar diameters are mismatched close in size.
Cant you ask seyberts per say to make the shaft fit your butt flush if you give them them the exact diameter?You are right when you are just adding an additional shaft.
But if it’s a new cue and the shafts don’t align, it’s just crap.
No cue maker that has talent & pride would sell such a cue.
But it’s fine if you go buy a 3rd party shaft you really wanted.
Personally, I’d never do it because if the two halves don’t align
seamlessly on my cues, it would just annoy the heck out of me.
But that’s just my peccadillo but the cue would play fine even
when the two collar diameters are mismatched close in size.
Yes but I don't think the will touch carbon fiber.Cant you ask seyberts per say to make the shaft fit your butt flush if you give them them the exact diameter?
Taper has more to do with bridge preference. I personally prefer gradual rise or conical because I am open bridge 90% of the time.Do a new thread on shaft taper, only two types.
But, would be interesting if it can be merged with tip size.
Conical taper for me, with 11.75mm
1st Gen Z shaft I have had since 2004.
Grew up with 2 shot pool and Snooker.
Pro taper never felt right, smaller tip for better cueball control as long as you are accurate with cueing.
Yes, I always play open bridge for same reason.Taper has more to do with bridge preference. I personally prefer gradual rise or conical because I am open bridge 90% if the time.
I don't think tip size directly affects CB control or the need for cueing accuracy. However, I use a very small tip (10mm) and one of the things I like about it (other than low squirt) is that it gives me a better look at where I'm hitting the CB - I consider that effect "indirect"....smaller tip for better cueball control as long as you are accurate with cueing.
So its true then conical and gradual is better for us correct? I had a cheap All fiberglass cue that I was a beast with that I'm almost positive was gradual rise. Def having a hard time with my stroke on the Cynergy with the Super slim taper. Looked almost exactly like this kmise.Yes, I always play open bridge for same reason.
Smaller tip, higher force concentration on a point on the cueball.I don't think tip size directly affects CB control or the need for cueing accuracy. However, I use a very small tip (10mm) and one of the things I like about it (other than low squirt) is that it gives me a better look at where I'm hitting the CB - I consider that effect "indirect".
pj
chgo
It def affects how aggressive you can be. Requires more center ball accuracy with the smaller tips.I don't think tip size directly affects CB control or the need for cueing accuracy. However, I use a very small tip (10mm) and one of the things I like about it (other than low squirt) is that it gives me a better look at where I'm hitting the CB - I consider that effect "indirect".
pj
chgo
If so I doubt that it matters.Smaller tip, higher force concentration on a point on the cueball.
Nope. Maybe with rounder tips, but even then not to a meaningful degree.Requires more center ball accuracy with the smaller tips.
I think science would say otherwise man. The smaller the tip, the more you need to be center to avoid miscuing ( striking the cue ball where the angle drops off and hitting the miscue limit). The bigger tip will miscue less as it has a larger area to play with before hitting said limit.If so I doubt that it matters.
Nope. Maybe with rounder tips, but even then not to a meaningful degree.
pj
chgo