How do these diamond tables play so badly? vid

What most people hate about Diamond tables is ………..waiting for it when buying for a home table. I hate the that the pockets are pretty much equal size to each other. Hate that the PRC is bullet proof. Can’t stand the 1 piece slate stays flat. No seams. The corner pockets that hold 10-11 balls is joke for one pocket players. Balls should be bouncing out but don’t. Table’s absolutely suck
You've been speaking gibberish this whole thread. Its like in the old days when a suspect cuemaker had a bad thread, they'd start cursing to get the thread shut down.
 
You've been speaking gibberish this whole thread. It’s like in the old days when a suspect cuemaker had a bad thread, they'd start cursing to get the thread shut down.
Fk it I’m bored and simply adding to the nonsense. All posts after a certain point are garbage time. But I’ll side with you. I just reported myself. My biggest complaint about any table is the lack of knowledgeable mechanic's. Otherwise this is simply another bitch and moan thread
 
Happened to be in Waco TX at Clicks with some blue label 8 fts. I assume they are same rubber/design as the 7 ft. These play much longer than the OP vid. Kicking just the cue ball responds in similar way. At slow speeds the rails correctly lengthen out

Video link
 

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It was a rainy day yesterday. Moderate high humidity similar to Temple tournament conditions, probably a bit more humid. Balls and cloth were very dirty. They played about 1/4 to a 1/3 diamond short but the rails were normal speed (cue ball actually slowed down vs the temple 7 fts)
 

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It was a rainy day yesterday. Moderate high humidity similar to Temple tournament conditions, probably a bit more humid. Balls and cloth were very dirty. They played about 1/4 to a 1/3 diamond short but the rails were normal speed (cue ball actually slowed down vs the temple 7 fts)
I think those rails at Temple would benefit from a good cleaning with warm water and Woolite.
 
From Badboys Texas State Championships. Blue label 7ft Diamonds. Incredibly short rails even at slow speeds. Cue ball doesn't slow down much. I assume rails were replaced or something wrong with cloth install? Never seen anything like it on a Diamond

video link

To be clear... I love Diamond tables! Trying to figure out how they are off
I tried this same test a number of times on our 7’ Diamond Smart blue label. I also came up short - by 1/4 to 1/2 rail site every time, but certainly not as short as shown in this video.
 
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He's my 1999 red label 8' (replaced artemis cushions like 12 years ago, but unmodified geometry, I bought it used out of a pub) at 45% humidity. 8 year old 860 (come to think of it, the rail cloth dates back to 2011, I only did the bed last time I moved). I did this in all 4 corners with the same results every time.


I definitely hit it with center follow, aimed through the diamond. Trust me, my fargo is 000.00.
 
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Just for giggles, this morning I went on my 8' Diamond Professional blue label that has an average of 1/2 hr play per day, and shot that shot 3 times. Cueball dropped cleanly in the corner pocket every time. Table and cloth are 3 1/2 yrs old, balls 2 weeks since cleaned, cloth vacuumed every week or so, medium speed hit with center follow, and no english. Humidity, who knows, but I have infloor heat plus furnace ducts in the ceiling and heat has been on lately due to our early cold snap. Most importantly, I shot for a contact point of where I feel it should be shot, and that is not to aim at the diamond, but aim at where the diamond points to the rail. My Diamond is level and banks as it is supposed to.
 
Happened to be in Waco TX at Clicks with some blue label 8 fts. I assume they are same rubber/design as the 7 ft. These play much longer than the OP vid. Kicking just the cue ball responds in similar way. At slow speeds the rails correctly lengthen out

Video link
This is how my 8 Foot plays at home-
 
Maybe my eye sight is bad but I just looked at that linked video countless times and it appears in the video to show that the ball aims to the diamond for the hit, and not where the diamond points to the rail. Videos can be deceptive though. If I aim for the diamond and not where it points to on the rail, my cue ball will hit in the same position as your linked video. By aiming to the diamond and not to where it points to on the rail, it will hit short of the correct contact point in my opinion.
 
Maybe my eye sight is bad but I just looked at that linked video countless times and it appears in the video to show that the ball aims to the diamond for the hit, and not where the diamond points to the rail. Videos can be deceptive though. If I aim for the diamond and not where it points to on the rail, my cue ball will hit in the same position as your linked video. By aiming to the diamond and not to where it points to on the rail, it will hit short of the correct contact point in my opinion.

Correct. The standard through-diamond 2-to-1 system does not work on most Diamond tables (but comes very close on most other brands). For more info, see the Diamonds banking short resource page and:

 
If a table plays weird during a tournament does it really matter? Both players have to deal with whatever the table throws at them, nobody has an advantage in a situation like this so why the big deal?? You don't enter a tournament to beat the table, just the other player.
 
Yes
If a table plays weird during a tournament does it really matter? Both players have to deal with whatever the table throws at them, nobody has an advantage in a situation like this so why the big deal?? You don't enter a tournament to beat the table, just the other player.
 
Maybe my eye sight is bad but I just looked at that linked video countless times and it appears in the video to show that the ball aims to the diamond for the hit, and not where the diamond points to the rail. Videos can be deceptive though. If I aim for the diamond and not where it points to on the rail, my cue ball will hit in the same position as your linked video. By aiming to the diamond and not to where it points to on the rail, it will hit short of the correct contact point in my opinion.
On a 2-1 system, if you do that you should not be a whole diamond short. The shortness should be 2x the difference between the impact point aiming at the diamond vs aiming where the diamond meets the rail. That difference from my video is like half a ball. So you should be 1 ball short (I am in my video, it hits the facing on the way in, but it also seems my table plays just a bit long).

Being a whole diamond different from that small aim difference is nutso. You should be aiming half a diamond short to end up 1 diamond short from the pocket.
 
On a 2-1 system, if you do that you should not be a whole diamond short. The shortness should be 2x the difference between the impact point aiming at the diamond vs aiming where the diamond meets the rail. That difference from my video is like half a ball. So you should be 1 ball short (I am in my video, it hits the facing on the way in, but it also seems my table plays just a bit long).

Being a whole diamond different from that small aim difference is nutso. You should be aiming half a diamond short to end up 1 diamond short from the pocket.
Not sure if you saw the post, but I had a Red Label Diamond that (later I learned) banked nearly a diamond short from middle pocket to corner, and was EXTREMELY speed sensitive on those cross corners. I practiced heavily for Derby one year and had Morra down 2-1 in the first round of the One Pocket (the year he won the Banks), and simply could not put down either of the cross corners I got a shot at to finish him off. That table cost me my first win against a pro.

Being an amateur who doesn't play that much, I couldn't adjust to how differently the Blue Labels banked. Got a Matchroom Blue Label coming in a week. I will definitely test out the rails before ai let the installer leave.
 
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