Diamond table question

gbs52

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Picture included. The flat metal bracket thing next to the rail bolts. What do they do? All are loose on my table.​

 

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While he's probably got his answer, for everyone else who is wondering, its the wedge adjusters for leveling the slate.
 
You see that alot on 7' tables, and lazy installers. If when setting up and it checks out somewhat level, they just call it good.
They are supposed to, even if a table seems level setting up, adjust all the wedges so that they are at least touching the slate so that the slate wont sag and go out of level after time.
On 3 piece slates for sure they need them adjusted. When the dealer set my 8' Diamond table up, after he left, I looked underneath as my table was rolling off and about half the wedge adjusters were like the one in the photo. I ordered a Starrett level and found my dealer left it off over 3 lines in places. Pretty simple to get it level but I went a little at a time as I didn't want to crack the slate joint. Mine was really low in the center.
The only advice i can give is to go slow and give the slate time to move as you dont want to have to screw it back out.
If that happens you have to back the nut off about a quarter inch and then pry it in and adjust out again.
Diamond has a great video on how to level their tables.
 
I'm coming out with a very explicit video covering the Diamond leveling system, step by step on my YouTube channel.
Do you have to have a machinists level to get it right? Mine rolls off veerrrry slightly to the bottom left... it is only noticeable when a ball is rolling very slowly toward the bottom left pocket I have a Starrett and a blue-point multi pitch level, and they both show level. I haven't adjusted anything cuz i'm afraid I will make something that is barely noticeable into something very noticeable.
 
Could be cloth grain tracking too.
Interesting. I don’t recall any previous mention of tracking deviation concerning worsted (Simonis), unlike tradition snooker cloth (?).
After the Diamond crew recover/level setup job (early 90s 9’ Pro table), slow rolling shots hit uptable near the rails tend to veer just slightly toward the center. Usually not enough to cause a miss, but enough that I find myself favoring the ‘cheat-off-the-rail’ approach, which almost always works anyway since the cloth in the seldom-used (I play 14.1 mostly) head corners stays slick longer, and slow shots never bobble, so it’s largely a non-issue.
I hesitate to attempt any adjustment since the level downtable seems fine now, especially as the cloth in those corners wears faster (thus rejecting more hard-hit balls). Similar slow-rolled shots hit downtable from the kitchen are so rare I haven’t noticed any cloth-tracking drift effect there (I should likely experiment a bit though, since no duplicate ‘cloth-tracking’ effect downtable means the head slate’s center IS low).
 
Do you have to have a machinists level to get it right? Mine rolls off veerrrry slightly to the bottom left... it is only noticeable when a ball is rolling very slowly toward the bottom left pocket I have a Starrett and a blue-point multi pitch level, and they both show level. I haven't adjusted anything cuz i'm afraid I will make something that is barely noticeable into something very noticeable.
I show how to blue print the entire slate, and the best results is with an 8" Starrett 98-8 level, but it's s lifetime tool.
 
Would that be relevant re: the earliest models also?
I'll be demonstrating how to correctly level 3 piece slates as well, with, and without a leveling system. I'm starting with Diamonds because I have them on hand, and I have some 3 piece slate Diamonds coming in as well. But I also have some GC's so I'll be setting one of them up so I can show how to correctly level a basic 3 piece slate as well. But these leveling videos are going to take time to produce, it's not like I'm going out working daily like I use to do.
 
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