How are you Aiming cut shots.

I understand completely, but the mind uses all visual data, in addition to any specific reference you might be focusing on.

In other words, when you look at the contact point and estimate how far away from that point to aim so that the cb contacts that point, you're giving your brain the entire visual of the ob. You might be focusing on that estimated contact point from behind the cb, but your brain is getting more than just that single reference. And it's paving the neural pathways needed to recognize shots, cb-ob relationships.

The more you do it, the more visual input your brain gets. Eventually, you find yourself not really looking at the contact point for most shots, because your mind recognizes the cb-ob relationship needed to pocket the ball. In other words, you recognize where the cb needs to be, in relation to the ob, not the contact point itself. That's the end result, whether you develop aiming skills using fractional aiming, ghostball, or contact points.
I believe it but it doesn't work for me. I've done enough aiming experiments to realize that more references are good. I make sure to walk around and take it all in. I have good spacial awareness but you actually have to look at the stuff for it to rest in that spacial awareness memory inside your head.

As long as I keep the sight picture I get down in the correct place to make the ball. It wasn't always this way. I've not hit a million balls but I've hit enough to know that if the OB moves as I walk to the shot and get down into stance it's a bad thing. This sounds odd, but it's almost like the world is rotating around the OB and the OB must not shift visual perspective. I mean, it can move around a bit and still be made but it means I lost accuracy and I better hope for looser pockets if the perspective changes.
 
The equal distances need to be on the GB-OB line. The three points are

Center of OB
Contact point
Center of GB
if you can visualize the center of the ghost ball you dont need to double the distance
just aim center cue ball at center ghost ball
the double the distance is used to negate the use of "ghost ball"
most systems break down at the extremes
when the balls are an inch or 2 apart or less
most players with minimum experience would realize that spatiall relationships look very differrent
the spherical nature of the balls comes more in to play for me
 
Since this thread is about aiming, I think a pre-shot routine goes hand in hand with aiming. I don't mean to steal the thread, but I would like to know what pre shot routine many of you good Shooters in here have and use. Even mediocre Shooters I would love to hear from you as well.
Mine is a bit odd but has a lot to do with making sure my back is somewhat tamed and keeping my ADHD brain from running in loops that sabotage me.


Shortened would be:
1. Chalk
2. Plan the rack/next few shots including leave while walking around the table and looking at the layout
3. Putz around with the stick getting feel and limbered up
4. Aim the OB to pocket and walk around to the shot/CB without losing perspective on OB. If OB "jumps" it's bad news and you gotta look again.
5. While upright and perpendicular to the shot Set grip hand/bridge length and feel the speed of the shot. Get your head in order and finalize decision on what shot you are shooting.
6. Get down on shot
7. Feather the stick. Take a few practice strokes. Final stroke is un-rushed at the transition.
8. Stay down until balls stop moving.

If at any time on steps 6 or 7 you have doubts or are thinking about anything from a scratch to should you be playing safe, should you use different spin, 2 way shots etc. or things don't look or feel right get back up and re-chalk and re-set on the shot. After step 5 thinking isn't allowed, it's only the execution phase.


Full color coded version if interested:
BODY or PAIN related, FOCUS or MENTAL related.

1. With my stick upright I look at and chalk the tip. This ensures my upper back and neck are limber enough to not impede shooting. It also lets me minimize distractions by knowing my tip is chalked and I can forget about this and focus on the shot.

As I do the following steps 2-5 I'm using my cue as a balancing stick. Feeling the weight of it. Sometimes I hold it out horizontally in front of me at the balance point, sometimes I point it like a dousing rod at the different balls. Is my shoulder stretched enough to raise the cue? Sure it looks funny but I'm really calibrating my screwed up back/shoulder/body and limbering it up while walking around the table. I'll probably air stroke some. I'd imagine it's quite the show to other folks but I don't really care anymore. It might even look like someone escaped from the loony bin but I honestly have to get my bones limbered up enough to count on them. It's like light stretching without looking like you're doing stretches.

2. Take the template off the table (distraction). Walk around and look at OB and how to make it. Look at the next ball and go stand in the line I want to shoot it at to determine a CB leave.
3. Try to solve the rack, walk around, let the ball positions be programed into my memory/subconscious.
4. At some point be sure the rack is solved or if my head's not up to it at least solve the next 3 shots.
5. Walk from where I'm seeing the OB into the pocket back to the CB without every letting the perspective change on the OB. It's like the world is rotating around the OB. I'm standing perpendicular to the shot line. Realize I'm distracted and Move my opponent's 16 pieces of chalk that are in my line of sight. If you spend 1/10 a second seeing damn chalk on the rail you're distracted. This is how focused your aim must be. Get rid of visual distractions. Carry their chalk around the table with you and put it out of your sight. Do it every shot. They will either realize they don't need chalk everywhere or it might distract them as much as chalk laying everywhere distracts me. Repeat step 5 without all the sh## all over the table. And the sh## does matter. If I don't move the chalk I'll see my tangent line bend toward a chalk, end up in line with the chalk for my next shot, miss, If I'm using something my opponent put down for shape it takes away what I was wanting to do even if it's accidental. SOME high level players chalk with 3 pieces of chalk and think you don't see them putting chalk at aim points, tangent lines, cb routes to avoid scratches etc. Most people don't even realize it but you can be assured if a guy uses 3 different pieces of chalk on a single shot, he's up to something. At least make him walk to where all 3 are piled up in a pyramid where you couldn't see it on your turn.
6. Find the balance point of the stick. I'm still focused on the OB and making sure it doesn't "move" on me. The perspective is locked. Feel my bridge on the stick and If I need a longer bridge for said shot I'll adjust. This is during air stroking to feel the speed of the shot. Mosconi said something like holding the cue 4-6" behind the balance point. It's no coincidence that they used 4-6" bridge length back then... BASICALLY I'm finalizing the grip location, bridge location for said shot, getting a feel for the speed of the shot and how my grip hand will feel.
7. Look at the shot, pay attention that the perspective on the OB hasn't changed. See it and aim it fully upright, then transition down into the shot. Since the perspective on the OB never changed, I can trust the fact that I didn't introduce errors or optical illusions. You must start fully upright. If you're slouching around the table tired or leaning it's trouble. Pain can make it understandable or seem like a reasonable compromise, but you still introduced optical illusions and without 100% effort you can't get a perfect outcome.
8. I'm now down at the table. At this point I will feather the stick a bit (like short quick strokes). A half inch stroke will tell you if you're aligned. If it wavers much at all you're not lined up correctly. Might be bridge hand, might be angled wrong. If the feathering can't quickly get aligned you gotta get up, re-chalk and re-set.
9. Think to myself "pro grade stroke" could be "pro grade follow" or "pro grade draw" etc. Basically a trigger to not piss-pound the ball and let the stroke do the work. (Very important in competition when the adrenaline starts in.) Let the ring finger lead the dance of the grip hand. Take a couple practice strokes. Don't rush the final stroke. I don't try to pause or anything like that but a non-rushed transition from back to forward is where the subconscious takes full control.
10. Stay down until the balls stop unless one is going to hit you or the stick.

This sound ridiculously long but it takes a lot to type out. In practice it could be easily done with a 20 second shot clock once you've grooved it.
 
I do understand now how this is system works. What angles do these dots represent and these are all roughly a tip spaced apart correct.
1696603499096.png
 
the dots are fractions of the object ball divided by 8
so
2/8 =3/4 hit = 1/4 overhang= aprroximately 15 degrees
4/8=1/2 ball hit or 30 degrees
6/8= 1/4 ball hit or 3/4 overhang approximately 48,5 degrees
the "inbetween angle" i will let brian give you their numbers
they are "roughly" one tip apart (brian can be more specific)
i would recommend you buy poolology by brain crist (BC21)
 
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6/8= 1/4 ball hit or 3/4 overhang approximately 60 degrees
Minor correction: 1/4 ball hit = ~48.5° cut angle. That's a bigger change than the previous ones because the "slope" of the OB surface gets very steep there, so little fractional changes mean big cut angle changes.

pj
chgo
 
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Minor correction: 3/4 ball hit = ~48.5° cut angle. That's a bigger change than the previous ones because the "slope" of the OB surface gets very steep there, so little fractional changes mean big cut angle changes.

pj
chgo
thanks PJ
i corrected it
i was thinking 1/8 hit is 60 degrees ....correct?
 
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I do understand now how this is system works. What angles do these dots represent and these are all roughly a tip spaced apart correct.
View attachment 722167
The aiming references/points are about half a tip apart. But since tip widths are different for different players, the exact angles generated are not exactly the same for everyone.

This is not exactly traditional fractional aiming. The basic fractional quarters and eighths are referenced by the numbers 0 through 7, but using these references in conjunction with your tip width (the center, sides, and fractional portions of your tip/ferrule) makes it a bit different than traditional fractional aiming.

Knowing the exact angle isn't as important as knowing which number to use to pocket the ball. For example, an exact 3/8 fractional overlap would require aiming the center of your tip about 7mm away from the edge of the ob. Aiming for a #5 aim, as shown in the diagram, would simply be to aim so that the side of your ferrule/tip looks to be lined up with the edge of the ob (you're aiming half a tip away from the edge of the ball).

Unless you play with a 14mm shaft, aiming for a #5 in this manner would create a slightly thicker hit, instead of producing a true 3/8 overlap. But it's much easier to visualize the edge of your ferrule lining up flush with the ob edge than it is to estimate it being 1mm or 1.5mm away from the edge.

Eventually you begin to recognize when a shot is dead with your #5 aim, or #3 or 2 or 6 or 7... The exact angles don't matter, but here are the approximate angles accounting for throw and using a 12 to 13mm shaft.

1 ~ 7°
2 ~ 14°
3 ~ 21°
4 ~ 28°
5 ~ 35°
6 ~ 45°
7 ~ 55°

By using your ferrule/tip in segments, you can easily learn to manipulate these angles and aim points. Aiming 1/4 of a tip outside of a #4, for example, would produce a shot result around 31 to 32 degrees (accounting for throw).
 
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the dots are fractions of the cue ball divided by 8
so
2/8 =3/4 hit = 1/4 overhang= aprroximately 15 degrees
4/8=1/2 ball hit or 30 degrees
6/8= 1/4 ball hit or 3/4 overhang approximately 48,5 degrees
the "inbetween angle" i will let brian give you their numbers
they are "roughly" one tip apart (brian can be more specific)
i would recommend you buy poolology by brain crist (BC21)
I am trying to correlate those degrees to the numbers in the chart. Example. Is 30 degree #2 or 48.6 #5
neither example of your is correct
remember the numbers refer to 1/8ths of a ball
30 degrees is #4
48.6 is #6
EDIT
BRIAN DID A BETTER JOB EXPLAINING IN THE POST ABOVE
I WOULD JUST LISTEN TO HIM......;)(y)
 
Minor correction: 3/4 ball hit = ~48.5° cut angle. That's a bigger change than the previous ones because the "slope" of the OB surface gets very steep there, so little fractional changes mean big cut angle changes.

pj
chgo
You mean a 1/4 ball hit. But yes the angles begin to crunch together and become trickier around 1/8 and thinner.
 
the dots are fractions of the cue ball divided by 8
so
2/8 =3/4 hit = 1/4 overhang= aprroximately 15 degrees
4/8=1/2 ball hit or 30 degrees
6/8= 1/4 ball hit or 3/4 overhang approximately 48,5 degrees
the "inbetween angle" i will let brian give you their numbers
they are "roughly" one tip apart (brian can be more specific)
i would recommend you buy poolology by brain crist (BC21)

Fractions of the OB
 
Thank you for clarifying everyone. Like we all know how we learn new systems takes time adjustments and understanding. My mind is fighting the ball overlap thing and going back to ghost ball on it's own. So I am learning my way however I can to retrain my brain and thus by having a understandable starting point hopefully my mind will grow faster. That being said based on what was posted. If I Aim center cue ball at number 6 a 45 degree cut shot should be excecated to the pocket. If I feel it is closer to a a40 degree shot then aim in between 5/6. I am using these details as a starting point to base adjustments in learning on.
 
How do you manage to cue straight when sighting away from the CB center? All these overlap aims along the edge of the CB or shaft introduce a parallel shift to the cue that makes it much harder for me send it straight than sighting through CB center at an OB offset. Is there a trick to it that I am missing?

I always sight through the CB center, at clock points around the OB edge for thick cuts, and fractional distances for thin cuts (chalk and pencil widths for reference). I use an angle estimation method that gives me the throw-adjusted cut angle to within a degree.
Angle aim points round.png
 
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We don't see shots from an overhead view, so the overlap never looks like it does in your image. ...
That may be true, but it is also true that the actual angles which we do see -- between the green lines in my diagram -- are never equal. The angle between the contact point and the center of the ghost ball is always larger. It's a negligible amount for most shots unless you view from closer.
 
Minor correction: 1/4 ball hit = ~48.5° cut angle. That's a bigger change than the previous ones because the "slope" of the OB surface gets very steep there, so little fractional changes mean big cut angle changes. ...
Here is a diagram from Colonel C.M Western's book, The Practical Science of Billiards and Its Pointer, printed in 1911. He did ball fractions down to 16ths. The upper left part shows the angle for each 16th cut, and you can see how fast they start spreading out for thin hits. A larger scan is at http://www.sfbilliards.com/Misc/Western_fractions_bw.gif

1696620167163.png
 
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