Joint ideas for 16” from the tip

iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’m going to make myself a travel cue, with one joint about 15-16” from the tip. What do you think is my best chance of success regarding strength. I’d do the work myself. I have a metal lathe and have done basic cue repair for several years, but never made a full cue. The first 15-16” portion would be an old Predator 314. After that it would be all new wood.

Im thinking to make it like a carom joint with a threaded tenon coming out of the shaft?

Or, put a 3/8-10 phenolic pin.

Any other thoughts or ideas?

I don’t care what it will look like.

Thanks.
 

Newsheriffintwn did something similar, you may want to gain his insight on this project.
 
I’m going to make myself a travel cue, with one joint about 15-16” from the tip. What do you think is my best chance of success regarding strength. I’d do the work myself. I have a metal lathe and have done basic cue repair for several years, but never made a full cue. The first 15-16” portion would be an old Predator 314. After that it would be all new wood.

Im thinking to make it like a carom joint with a threaded tenon coming out of the shaft?

Or, put a 3/8-10 phenolic pin.

Any other thoughts or ideas?

I don’t care what it will look like.

Thanks.
When I played full time, I had Kikel make me a 5'' extension (picture) that I attached to my second 29'' shaft
I'd leave it attached during match play JIC I needed the extra reach, but being 6'6'' I rarely needed it.
From excessive play my shaft ends became allot smaller than 13mm.
I cut back the shafts 5'' and I now insert the 5'' section between the handle/shaft.
Shaft is now very stiff, and thus added forward weight.
I went to the handle/removed the weight pin, and it works for me, wasn't interested yet in CF.
These wooden shafts were purchased in 1979 then cut down and used from 89 and on.
Really good aged wood with a parallel grain.

bm
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2812 (2).JPG
    IMG_2812 (2).JPG
    76.1 KB · Views: 84
Back
Top