New Dominiak Kielwood Blanks

Palmetto cue

Palmetto cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just got this in the mail. Haven't had a chance to finish it yet. Always hard to find time to work on your own cue lol. But, it looks really great! Excited to see how it hits! This is the first radial laminated Kielwood shaft I've seen. He sells them in different grades all the way to ready to sand profiles. Pics really don't do it justice. More after I put a joint, tip ferrule on it.
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i had jacoby cues make some for me like a year and a half ago to try out. only finished one for a customer. they were a little hesitant to make them because the glue they use reacts with the moisture in the wood and kielwood has almost none so they weren't sure how well they would hold up. that might be why you dont see many spliced kielwood shafts. on the plus side i like working with it cause then my shop smells like pancakes. :ROFLMAO:
 
Palmetto cue said:
Just got this in the mail. Haven't had a chance to finish it yet. Always hard to find time to work on your own cue lol. But, it looks really great! Excited to see how it hits! This is the first radial laminated Kielwood shaft I've seen. He sells them in different grades all the way to ready to sand profiles. Pics really don't do it justice. More after I put a joint, tip ferrule on it. View attachment 741016View attachment 741017View attachment 741018View attachment 741019View attachment 741020
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Make sure you have a sharp router bit and the right bit to avoid pullout, the wood has 2 different densities

Also, you might need to face that off and get a good center. If it's not dead center, it's not a pool cue Not poking at you, just trying to be helpful
Let us all know how it goes
 
Honestly and from my own experience, this is a total waste of time. The torrified maple creates a very low deflection shaft to begin with so what's the purpose here at all? Seems like more work to me than what you are going to get out of it, PLUS I will bet you can see the glue lines all the way from one end to the other as due to what the one poster here already said, this wood is incredibly dry, so trying to hide the glue line in them will be very difficult if you even can. I'm very curious to see the results because the shafts I make here are VERY low deflection and even lower than the Pred Vantage shaft I used to use myself hence the reason I switched to the torrified shaft I make here.
 
CarromBilliards said:
lower than the Pred Vantage shaft
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The idea of creating the radial laminated is probably not the greatest, but I think that saying they are really low deflection just because they are baked is a little over the top. I've played a tsunami, lower than vantage?, I don't think it was lower than a 20 year old 314.
 
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CarromBilliards said:
Honestly and from my own experience, this is a total waste of time. The torrified maple creates a very low deflection shaft to begin with so what's the purpose here at all? Seems like more work to me than what you are going to get out of it, PLUS I will bet you can see the glue lines all the way from one end to the other as due to what the one poster here already said, this wood is incredibly dry, so trying to hide the glue line in them will be very difficult if you even can. I'm very curious to see the results because the shafts I make here are VERY low deflection and even lower than the Pred Vantage shaft I used to use myself hence the reason I switched to the torrified shaft I make here.
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Besides that, do you think the motivation when doing the lamination was lower deflection, if anything I'd think it raises it. Supposedly it's for radial consistency but maybe it's just for using pieces that wouldn't cut it as a shaft blank.
 
Well maybe your trying the wrong shaft for comparison, just because it says tsunami on it doesn't always mean its the best one out there, in fact I'd put mine up against it all day long. MY Ravage "T" shaft does in fact deflect less than the Vantage, its why I retired it and use mine now. Everyone has their own ways of making shafts, IE Pro taper, ferrule materials and tip all come into play. you do have a VERY valid point there too tho, and I have to agree, using pieces up in the shop that didn't make the cut/grade for shafts by laminating them can be profitable for sure! I have my own version of the radially laminated shaft here that I also make in house as well and they play good too but not as good as the torrifieds do.
 
CarromBilliards said:
Honestly and from my own experience, this is a total waste of time. The torrified maple creates a very low deflection shaft to begin with so what's the purpose here at all? Seems like more work to me than what you are going to get out of it, PLUS I will bet you can see the glue lines all the way from one end to the other as due to what the one poster here already said, this wood is incredibly dry, so trying to hide the glue line in them will be very difficult if you even can. I'm very curious to see the results because the shafts I make here are VERY low deflection and even lower than the Pred Vantage shaft I used to use myself hence the reason I switched to the torrified shaft I make here.
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You may be right, I don't have it finished yet. Been swamped with customer cues of late. The glue lines are not noticeable currently, but I have another 1/2 MM to remove. I'll take close up pictures, and give a full report as soon as I can. Thanks for your comment.
 
I've built a bunch of shafts with Bob Danielson's radial kielwood blanks and I definitely prefer laminated over straight kielwood.
Dominiak has always been great for me to deal with too, I'm sure you'll like the blanks.
 
Palmetto cue said:
Just got this in the mail. Haven't had a chance to finish it yet. Always hard to find time to work on your own cue lol. But, it looks really great! Excited to see how it hits! This is the first radial laminated Kielwood shaft I've seen. He sells them in different grades all the way to ready to sand profiles. Pics really don't do it justice. More after I put a joint, tip ferrule on it. View attachment 741016View attachment 741017View attachment 741018View attachment 741019View attachment 741020
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Let us know how the feedback is!! Please!!
Can you feel the shot or does it hit more like CF??
 
Mensabum said:
Beautiful piece of maple ya got there boss!!👍🏻
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Guys, I'm awful sorry, but I finished it yesterday, and was letting some folks try it out at the poolroom for feedback, and a guy really liked it, so yeah, I sold it to him. I've got another blank that I'll finish for further review.
As far as my thoughts... It felt very solid, and I liked the sound of it. Nice and crisp. It weighed 3.25 OZ, and had a pleasant light brown shade. I chose a Zan Grip Hard for a tip, but I would liked to have had time to try a softer tip just to compare. I usually play with medium/hard tips, but I will start out with a softer tip on the next shaft just to see. As far as deflection, I don't know if I'm a good judge. It wasn't as low as say a Revo, but I wouldn't have liked it if it were. I have a couple shots I shoot to gauge it. I had no problem really juicing up the cueball when needed, and was able to move it around the table easily. I think that's why that guy bought it. Sorry for the delay, and thanks for your patience. I'll let you know as soon as I finish the other one. I've bought a good many shafts over the years from Mr Dominiak. I can't recall any defects, and he's always provided me a great product. I will be surprised if the next one I finish isn't equally liked. I'm keeping the next one for myself though.
 
Palmetto cue said:
Guys, I'm awful sorry, but I finished it yesterday, and was letting some folks try it out at the poolroom for feedback, and a guy really liked it, so yeah, I sold it to him. I've got another blank that I'll finish for further review.
As far as my thoughts... It felt very solid, and I liked the sound of it. Nice and crisp. It weighed 3.25 OZ, and had a pleasant light brown shade. I chose a Zan Grip Hard for a tip, but I would liked to have had time to try a softer tip just to compare. I usually play with medium/hard tips, but I will start out with a softer tip on the next shaft just to see. As far as deflection, I don't know if I'm a good judge. It wasn't as low as say a Revo, but I wouldn't have liked it if it were. I have a couple shots I shoot to gauge it. I had no problem really juicing up the cueball when needed, and was able to move it around the table easily. I think that's why that guy bought it. Sorry for the delay, and thanks for your patience. I'll let you know as soon as I finish the other one. I've bought a good many shafts over the years from Mr Dominiak. I can't recall any defects, and he's always provided me a great product. I will be surprised if the next one I finish isn't equally liked. I'm keeping the next one for myself though.
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Thanks for the update!!
Keep us posted.👍🏻
 
CarromBilliards said:
Honestly and from my own experience, this is a total waste of time. The torrified maple creates a very low deflection shaft to begin with so what's the purpose here at all? Seems like more work to me than what you are going to get out of it, PLUS I will bet you can see the glue lines all the way from one end to the other as due to what the one poster here already said, this wood is incredibly dry, so trying to hide the glue line in them will be very difficult if you even can. I'm very curious to see the results because the shafts I make here are VERY low deflection and even lower than the Pred Vantage shaft I used to use myself hence the reason I switched to the torrified shaft I make here.
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Why would Kiel have lower deflection than a Predator with hollowed end ?
 
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