CA clearcoat SS joint.

Billiard Architect

Billiard Architect

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Coating my current work and it has a ss joint. Using CA. What is the best way to keep the CA off the SS collar. Tried blue masking tape but now have CA build up on the tape on the joint.

Thank you in advance
 
Kim Bye said:
Try electricians tape instead, gets a much tighter seal
Click to expand...
Many moons ago, the late great maker Judd Fuller showed me his trick.
He sprayed on the whole butt including on the SS collar ( which he rarely used ).
He then asked me what the fastest way to remove the finish off the ss collar .
I said , I don't know, sand it ?
He then places the butt on the lathe and grabs the collar.
Spins the butt and the finish came off the collar .
Having teflon spray in the shop is not a good idea as you know. I suspect that's what he sprayed the ss with .
I've never tried it and will not let a teflon spray can in the shop .
If you're brave enough, maybe that's an option .
But, the best way imo is to undercut the SS collar by some .005" to .007".
Tape off the SS collar when spraying and sand level to it .

I rarely use delrin butt cap these days but when I do, that's how I do it .
I made a jig with a blade that cuts the finish "line " so the excess can be removed easily .
 
JoeyInCali said:
Many moons ago, the late great maker Judd Fuller showed me his trick.
He sprayed on the whole butt including on the SS collar ( which he rarely used ).
He then asked me what the fastest way to remove the finish off the ss collar .
I said , I don't know, sand it ?
He then places the butt on the lathe and grabs the collar.
Spins the butt and the finish came off the collar .
Having teflon spray in the shop is not a good idea as you know. I suspect that's what he sprayed the ss with .
I've never tried it and will not let a teflon spray can in the shop .
If you're brave enough, maybe that's an option .
But, the best way imo is to undercut the SS collar by some .005" to .007".
Tape off the SS collar when spraying and sand level to it .

I rarely use delrin butt cap these days but when I do, that's how I do it .
I made a jig with a blade that cuts the finish "line " so the excess can be removed easily .
Click to expand...
That sounds like it would work. Wonder if petroleum jelly would do the same. (Waiting for the jokes)
 
i actually overcut my SS and finish up level to it, with regards to removing the build off cleanly, use a razor slightly off perpendicular. like as if you are scraping it
 
JoeyInCali said:
Many moons ago, the late great maker Judd Fuller showed me his trick.
He sprayed on the whole butt including on the SS collar ( which he rarely used ).
He then asked me what the fastest way to remove the finish off the ss collar .
I said , I don't know, sand it ?
He then places the butt on the lathe and grabs the collar.
Spins the butt and the finish came off the collar .
Having teflon spray in the shop is not a good idea as you know. I suspect that's what he sprayed the ss with .
I've never tried it and will not let a teflon spray can in the shop .
If you're brave enough, maybe that's an option .
But, the best way imo is to undercut the SS collar by some .005" to .007".
Tape off the SS collar when spraying and sand level to it .

I rarely use delrin butt cap these days but when I do, that's how I do it .
I made a jig with a blade that cuts the finish "line " so the excess can be removed easily .
Click to expand...
So much to like in this comment!
 
They actually make a water borne liquid masking material. You can spray or brush it on and it easily peels off.
I will try to remember the name but it’s buried somewhere in my brain.
 
CavinTan said:
i actually overcut my SS and finish up level to it, with regards to removing the build off cleanly, use a razor slightly off perpendicular. like as if you are scraping it
Click to expand...
I'm guessing joey said undercut meaning not cutting as much as the wood, leaving the ss proud.
If you overcut you would be cutting down more than the wood, leaving the ss recessed.
I do think you're meaning the same thing in the end. I'd agree with term undercutting myself.

Excuse my need for clarity in words, I sucked in English class.
 
I've heard of some makers that actually rough up the stainless edge about 1/8 or so and apply finish.
 
Hard Knock Cues said:
I'm guessing joey said undercut meaning not cutting as much as the wood, leaving the ss proud.
If you overcut you would be cutting down more than the wood, leaving the ss recessed.
I do think you're meaning the same thing in the end. I'd agree with term undercutting myself.

Excuse my need for clarity in words, I sucked in English class.
Click to expand...
Ah, right. i undercut the SS. my bad,
 
I think you are over thinking this. As has been already suggested, Just leave the joint collar over size by the thickness of your finish. When you apply your finish you will only run over the the back edge ever so slightly. When you wet sand and polish you can block it until it is flush. You can sand and polish the joint the same time as the cue. To get a stainless joint looking nice you need to sand and polish after final cut any way. Why risk contaminating the cue with waxes and such.
 
sure that works too, There is more than one way to skin a cat so its just a preference of approaches and all are valid ideas. what's the thickness of the finish? maybe a thou or two? about enough to establish a shiny finish by fine sandpaper and buffing. If it's right it's within about the same as you can feel, maybe 001" or so. he'll know when his own feel upon it says it passes his own quality assurance. the collar might have some tiny radius so it's not an ice skate type of sharp edge.
 
snookered_again said:
sure that works too, There is more than one way to skin a cat so its just a preference of approaches and all are valid ideas. what's the thickness of the finish? maybe a thou or two? about enough to establish a shiny finish by fine sandpaper and buffing. If it's right it's within about the same as you can feel, maybe 001" or so. he'll know when his own feel upon it says it passes his own quality assurance. the collar might have some tiny radius so it's not an ice skate type of sharp edge.
Click to expand...
In my experience with hand applied finish, I usually end up putting it on a little thick. So that after I have sanded it flat and up through all the grits I end up with between 2 and 5 mil thickness. Nothing worse than polishing out a finish and cutting through and having to start over. As to the sharp edge at the back side of the joint collar, I have found that when single point turning stainless you will often end up with a burr at the end of the cut. I usually give it a slight rub with the Jewlers file while the cue is spinning. So, if you looked close it would probably be a small bevel, rather than a true sharp corner.
 
Don't make it harder than it has to be. Tape off joint, spray cue, razor blade finish flush with joint and sand/polish as usual.
 
A thin layer of grease would stop the glue finish from sticking. I'm sure the petroleum jelly as mentioned above would do the same. I just watched a video of appling c a glue finish on a lathe turned pen on a woodworking channel. A thin layer of grease was spread on the metal parts that seperated the wood turned barrell of the pen. No problems.
 
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