Attaching Leather Drop Pockets

cycopath

cycopath

Call me Banger.
Silver Member
I would appreciate it if someone could post a couple of pics of how to staple/tack the leather netting to frame/rails/blinds. I would go by the way the last guy had attached the nets, but everything else was done wrong, so I'm guessing those were done the wrong way as well.

Many thanks.
 
It depend a little on the build of the table. Do you know what make/model/approximate age?

Most of the time it's as simple as positioning the pocket where you want it, then stapling the tabs to hold the pocket in that position.
 
Table

This is an unknown antique t-rail table.

Should I staple the largest leather pieces underneath the pocket shelf? The last person had them stapled to the face of the pocket shelf. I thought it wasn't as aesthically pleasing that way.

I'll take some pics of the pockets tonight, for a better idea of what I've got going on.

Here's a pic of the table, without the cloth installed yet or blinds on.

(There was dust flying in the air apparently, if you are wondering what all the spots are.)

100_0864.JPG
 
pockets

I use 1" drywall screws. Staples can sometimes cut the leather fingers off. The screws leave a hole you can use again and again without destroying the leather.
 
3\4" modified truss head screws $5.00 per pound and have a 1\2" wide head on them for maximum hold find them in white boxes were the drywall screws are @ any home depot or lowes. They also come in a modified drill bit screw also for doing sheet metal studs, The nick name is usually zips for zipping metal.

This is the self drilling model also comes in a sharp pointed model to just cant find a link for one. But here is a good picture.

http://ericatu.en.ec21.com/product_...CA01838744&product_nm=Modify_Truss_Head_Screw

Drill pointed.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100431387&N=10000003+90029+501179

Craig
 
I thinks thats plaster, and a lot of it!!!



The problem you are having with the pockets is due to the fact most antiques, the slate does not overhang the frame enough to attach the tabs to. check this to be the case first. With the slate centered on the frame,check to see if there is any overhang to attach the tabs to. make sure the pocket would hang fairly straight and accept balls.

If not, you are going to have to attach some of the tabs to the slate frame in the face of the pocket. we have documented photos showing this was the recommended way. They would attach the bed cloth first then tack the center four tabs to the face with small tacks then install rails and tack remaing tabs to the rails.


one thing we recommend is to back cut the ends of the tabs that are to be attached to the face frame. starting 1/2 inch back from the end of the tab slice the thickness of the tab to it becomes paper thin. this makes a nice transition instead of having the thick ends of the leather stopping abruptly. do this before hanging the pockets!
 
sdbilliards said:
I hope that isn't bondo on your table?
Click to expand...

Hell yes, it is! ;)

I acquired the table through a friend, and yes he is still my friend (lol). His brother (who isn't a small guy) decided to use the table as a chair one night and sat on the rail. He stressed the slate to the point that a whole 1/8" deep section of slate measuring something like 4" x 12" broke away from the top. I scraped out any loose sections of slate, and reformed the area with bondo. It's certainly not up to par for a professional table mechanic, but it seems to work pretty well for my purposes.

There's probably a better way to do the repair, but I went with the best thing I could think of. I know from the previous posts that bondo repairs make setting up a table a holy terror. I promise not to call any of the mechs that post on here to break down or reassemble this table.
 
scruffy1 said:
The problem you are having with the pockets is due to the fact most antiques, the slate does not overhang the frame enough to attach the tabs to. check this to be the case first. With the slate centered on the frame,check to see if there is any overhang to attach the tabs to. make sure the pocket would hang fairly straight and accept balls.

If not, you are going to have to attach some of the tabs to the slate frame in the face of the pocket. we have documented photos showing this was the recommended way. They would attach the bed cloth first then tack the center four tabs to the face with small tacks then install rails and tack remaing tabs to the rails.


one thing we recommend is to back cut the ends of the tabs that are to be attached to the face frame. starting 1/2 inch back from the end of the tab slice the thickness of the tab to it becomes paper thin. this makes a nice transition instead of having the thick ends of the leather stopping abruptly. do this before hanging the pockets!
Click to expand...

Thanks Scruffy1.
 
Replying with appreciation, to bump a very old post regarding attaching leather pockets to a vintage [1986 Brunswick Hawthorn] table. Staples were not holding. Searching for a solution, I ran across this post suggesting 3/4” truss head screws. They worked great and even allowed me to use heat shrink tubing where staples had cut the old leather straps. First post here, I wanted it to be a thank you to all of you for helping others!
Thx,
JJS


IMG_6389.jpeg

IMG_6390.jpeg
 
jjsmith said:
Replying with appreciation, to bump a very old post regarding attaching leather pockets to a vintage [1986 Brunswick Hawthorn] table. Staples were not holding. Searching for a solution, I ran across this post suggesting 3/4” truss head screws. They worked great and even allowed me to use heat shrink tubing where staples had cut the old leather straps. First post here, I wanted it to be a thank you to all of you for helping others!
Thx,
JJS


View attachment 744069
View attachment 744066
Click to expand...
Sometimes old info needs reviewing,
The heat shrink tubing is a brilliant idea. I wonder how long it will hold up though.

Robert
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top