Torrified Shafts

All this low deflection / pivot point stuff has me thoroughly confused. Pool shouldn't be this complicated. I'm sticking with my high deflection shaft so I don't have to learn anything new.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
The closer your bridge is to your shaft's pivot point, the more accurately it will compensate for deflection when pivoted at the bridge (such as with a stroke error). Lower deflection shafts have pivot points farther away from normal bridges (farther back) than higher deflection shafts do, so...
- pivoting at the bridge with a higher deflection shaft creates a cue angle more closely matched to its angle of deflection (more forgiving)
- pivoting at the bridge with a lower deflection shaft creates a cue angle less closely matched to its angle of deflection (less forgiving)


Don't blame your lack of understanding on my semantics.

pj
chgo
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Patrick what you say is accurate but it has to do with a very specific situation
And I think my understanding is perfectly accurate. You were just being obsessive.
its not what happens for most people in real life
dr dave in his LD tests aims at the same spot with the same offset
the lower LD shafts hit closer to the target
thats "MORE FORGIVING TO ME"
how do you dance around that?
 
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bbb said:
Patrick what you say is accurate but it has to do with a very specific situation
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I think you might be misled by OP's use of the term "aiming error". Since deflection makes no difference for aiming errors, I answered the question about stroke errors (inaccurate tip/ball contact). Does that clarify it any?

pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
I think you might be misled by OP's use of the term "aiming error". Since deflection makes no difference for aiming errors, I answered the question about stroke errors (inaccurate tip/ball contact). Does that clarify it any?

pj
chgo
Click to expand...
no and yes(😂)
if i am lined up correctly for a vertical axis shot
and hit 1/2 tip off for example with a LD shaft vs a high deflection shaft
i will either still make the ball or miss by less with the LD shaft
assuming the high deflection shaft i am not perfectly on the pivot bridge length and hitting it hard enough that swerve doesnt play a role
agree?
since hitting the cue ball at the shafts pivot point cancels squirt and swerve so you hit your target
and hitting off center with an LD shaft short of its pivot point you will still get deflection /squirt and hit off the target in that strict scenario
so in that very strict scenario the LD shaft is less accurate and therefore by your reasoning less forgiving
agree?
jmho
icbw
 
bbb said:
if i am lined up correctly for a vertical axis shot
and hit 1/2 tip off for example with a LD shaft vs a high deflection shaft
i will either still make the ball or miss by less with the LD shaft
Click to expand...
To accurately correct for squirt, the LD shaft must be angled less than the HD shaft.

When pivoted at the bridge, the cue's new angle will be closer to (maybe right on) the correction needed for an HD shaft.

To more closely match the correction needed for a LD shaft, it would need to be pivoted farther back (behind the bridge), creating less angle.

pj
chgo
 
I think the LD will hit closer but throw farther. If understanding correctly. Not to confuse anyone.

My keilwood has a softer feeling hit than the regular shaft btw.
 
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Patrick Johnson said:
To accurately correct for squirt, the LD shaft must be angled less than the HD shaft.

When pivoted at the bridge, the cue's new angle will be closer to (maybe right on) the correction needed for an HD shaft.

To more closely match the correction needed for a LD shaft, it would need to be pivoted farther back (behind the bridge), creating less angle.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...
You could put it into a metaphor or analogy instead. Why do you follow through on a shot? A regular maple shaft has more natural follow through than an LD shaft does.
 
wizard77 said:
Recently acquired one and have it on my Lucasi Hybrid butt and am playing with it. It has taken a bit of adjustment, no question. Initially it was nearly an ounce an a quarter heavier than my Lucasi shaft. I adjusted for weight and balance and it has become more comfortable. It does seem to have even less deflection than the original shaft, where it points is where it goes on the barboxes I am used to primarily playing on. Where I previously may have played a half to 1 tip of sidespin it seems I have needed to cut that almost in half, with the same tip softness on the original shaft. I also have had to soften my stroke quite a bit to keep from over hitting. Is this common to what others have also experienced with torrified shafts? My hits are solid and the feel of the overall cue is better than with the original, and it has a very striking appearance with the Lucasi butt. My only complaint, if it even is one, is that there is little to any forgiveness if your aim is off even a whisker, if you were you had better have hit softly!
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You forgot the most important factor.
What kind of ferrule and it's configuration.
 
wizard77 said:
Recently acquired one and have it on my Lucasi Hybrid butt and am playing with it. It has taken a bit of adjustment, no question. Initially it was nearly an ounce an a quarter heavier than my Lucasi shaft. I adjusted for weight and balance and it has become more comfortable. It does seem to have even less deflection than the original shaft, where it points is where it goes on the barboxes I am used to primarily playing on. Where I previously may have played a half to 1 tip of sidespin it seems I have needed to cut that almost in half, with the same tip softness on the original shaft. I also have had to soften my stroke quite a bit to keep from over hitting. Is this common to what others have also experienced with torrified shafts? My hits are solid and the feel of the overall cue is better than with the original, and it has a very striking appearance with the Lucasi butt. My only complaint, if it even is one, is that there is little to any forgiveness if your aim is off even a whisker, if you were you had better have hit softly!
Click to expand...

Your experience doesn't coincide with mine at all.

A friend of mine who passed the other day sold me a torrified keel wood shaft to go with the cue butt he made and gave to me.

I was playing with Jacoby Hybrids and he asked me to try it and I played fantastic with it but eventually went back to the Hybrids to see what the difference was. I play a great deal of one pocket and I'm too shabby. I've tried carbon and the Hybrids and the difference in shafts for one pocket is the moves that you can make. Squirt and deflection can be of a lot of help if the squirt isn't a great deal more than you can get used to and the Torrified shaft I have squirts a great deal less than a regular maple shaft but also more then the Jacoby Hybrids. My 30 inch shaft weighs 3.2 ounces.

My friend that made it did an awesome job. He didn't allow a lot of shoulder to be present and he tapered it down and its close to the same taper for a very long way. Since its torrified, its plenty stiff but does have some give that seems to be just right.

I've seen others torrified shafts and I wouldn't play with them, but if you don't necessarily like what you have right now you might try having it sanded down to the description I gave and then if your results are anything like mine, you'll love it.

I have one shaft at this point and I'm planning on getting rid of some equipment and having another custom made to be just like mine.
 
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