Patrick. I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with either of you. I agree with Mr. Palmers thoughts on the weight bolt though. It could happen.
There is always a What if.
And of course my answer makes no sence at all. I respect both of you.
Coring a forearm and leaving it empty in an attempt at moving the balance point
- Thread starter Chili Palmer
- Start date
There is always a What if.
And of course my answer makes no sence at all. I respect both of you.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I had read at some point that it was held on by the weight bolt, either way, if you look at the pic on the first page, that screw is glued to about everything under the bumper.
In the picture I supplied.
All I did was pour some laquer thinner on the weight bolt. The butt cap had to be replaced anyway.
When the thinner absorbed in, everything just unscrewed.
It answered my own question of how Mr. Heubler did it.
Hard Knock Cues
Well-known member
IF you are able to get the weight bolt out, I would think you could calculate how much to cut off the end to get your desired weight. In turn loosing some forward weight and shifting the balance point, how much would be the question.
I too have the same issue, however it’s with a Beautiful Brand New Shane Gibson Cue I just purchased! I have been feverishly trying to replace a Warped “Durbin“ Butt with one that’s longer yet also on the lighter side, but that’s been nearly impossible, so I went with the “SG” that measures out to 59.5 total inches and the butt weighs in a 16 3/8 oz, and 20 3/8 oz with the shaft(s) on total. Interestingly, when I removed the rubber Butt End, there is about 3-4” hollowed out, but No Weight Butt? The Balance Point is 19 5/8” from the Butt End, not including the rubber cap. Ideally, I would like to remove 1 to 1.5 OZ total without moving the Balance Point that much more forward.
Replacing the Brass Radial Pin with Aluminum/titanium? may reduce a little, but if I were to go that far, I’m tempted to Core a little in the front forearm and the same amount in the rear to get to my ideal 18-18-5 range! I actually have 2 Part Urethane Expanding Foam from my Complete Interior Stereo Build on my Mercedes E63 that I could potentially use (I’m also potentially using it to build my own 30.5” CF Shaft!). I’m not sure how I could remove the Radial Pin without potentially damaging the wood core surrounding it though? I’m thinking that using a torch to heat up the glue before using some Vice-grips to remove the Radial Pin would do the trick!?! I imagine once I were to get past that, drilling out enough wood to replace with Expanding foam is going to be a crap shoot in terms of how much to remove vs the amount in weight actually removed after filling-in with the Foam. Then I would need to recenter the Radial Pin which because it’s patented, would require either a special Bit?, or I’d just fill and re-drill the size for it to be set with Epoxy? That said, I could also just bring it to a local builder, but where’s the fun in that?
Replacing the Brass Radial Pin with Aluminum/titanium? may reduce a little, but if I were to go that far, I’m tempted to Core a little in the front forearm and the same amount in the rear to get to my ideal 18-18-5 range! I actually have 2 Part Urethane Expanding Foam from my Complete Interior Stereo Build on my Mercedes E63 that I could potentially use (I’m also potentially using it to build my own 30.5” CF Shaft!). I’m not sure how I could remove the Radial Pin without potentially damaging the wood core surrounding it though? I’m thinking that using a torch to heat up the glue before using some Vice-grips to remove the Radial Pin would do the trick!?! I imagine once I were to get past that, drilling out enough wood to replace with Expanding foam is going to be a crap shoot in terms of how much to remove vs the amount in weight actually removed after filling-in with the Foam. Then I would need to recenter the Radial Pin which because it’s patented, would require either a special Bit?, or I’d just fill and re-drill the size for it to be set with Epoxy? That said, I could also just bring it to a local builder, but where’s the fun in that?
Just to give you an idea of weight out and weight in moves the balance. I went the other way a few weeks back by adding .3 oz to the shaft just in front of the shaft threads, and took a corresponding .3 oz off the weight bolt. Orig cue weighted to 19.5 oz with a balance point of 18 in. After adding .3 oz to the shaft and subtracting .3 oz from the weight bolt, balance moved to 18 5/8". Not alot, but accomplished what I wanted. I think that's the opposite of what you wanted, but it gives you a rough idea of how much weight and where it is/was moves the balance.
Not a cuemaker, but removing wood or coring deeper into the butt end - would that help?? Hate to see you remove that joint pin.
Especially when you mentioned 'Vice Grips and Heat'!!
Idk how attached you are to the shaft, but 4 ozs today is heavy. I prefer those, but could you reduce some of that weight w a lighter shaft?? 3.2 oz or 3.4 oz... something in that range??
Heck, I bet you could find one close to 3.0 that would fit if you asked the members.
Probably move the balance point where you wouldn't want it tho. Toss this out to the cuemakers... Mike Webb or Larry, one of those guys and they'll clue you in.
Coos Cues
Coos Cues
Have you considered tying helium balloons on a string to it at various points?
I agree with Joey. If the cue is a full 2 oz too heavy just get something else. You will end up ruining the cue and never get the result you see in your mind with either the cue or your game as a result of the cue.
I agree with Joey. If the cue is a full 2 oz too heavy just get something else. You will end up ruining the cue and never get the result you see in your mind with either the cue or your game as a result of the cue.
Coos Cues
Coos Cues
I had a beautiful cue that was 95% ready. It was about .4 oz heavier than I wanted. So I got the brilliant idea to core the handle core which is .800" with my .690" gun drill and replace the jatoba with hickory. I did the math and it was indeed a cunning plan to achieve the perfect weight! Didn't want to change the pin and move the balance rearward.
The gun drill bound up on something about an inch from the A joint almost exactly where I was going to stop in a couple of seconds and kaboom!
All the king's horses and all the king's men couldn't put humpty dumpty back together again.
Well, I really appreciate everyone’s honest replies regarding my desire to reduce the weight evenly by 1 to 1.5 oz on my new Shane Gibson 59.5” 20 3/8 oz Cue, and after practicing with and playing in a couple league nights, just having a “straight Cue” puts a smile on my face, so for now, I’ll just learn to live with it! That said, I do notice that the shafts (1- 4 oz. 12.7mm 29.75” Maple, 1- 3.9 oz. 12.8mm 29.75” Keilwood, both with 1/2“ Tiger Sabre ferrules) each have a taper which expands just after the Natural Pivot Point, which are 12” and 12.5” respectively from the Tip. As such, if I use a closed bridge for a longer medium-strong shot, my bridge happens to fall right at that spot and I have to release my index finger, which is just awkward! Even worse if I happen to bridge, god forbid, at 13” where my closed bridge caused me to blatantly miss a shot!
So my question now is, in an effort at further modifying what I have to enable my being able to use a closed bridge, I know I could perhaps have that taper extended from 12” to 14-15” from the Tip, but my concern is by doing so, that this would cause for the NPP to unfortunately move further back? As many others who go for LD, it’s often overlooked just how drastically far back that NPP moves (15” to as far as 20” for a Revo!). This requires one to completely change from using more Backhand English to primarily using Front Hand English/Negative Backhand English, something I would rather not have to conform to! So if I were to taper an additional 2-4 inches, I would prefer to attempt counteracting any rearward movement of NPP! I‘m thinking by using a longer, perhaps slightly heavier, ferrule (1” Ivory?) that it may have a desired effect of counteracting this “rearward movement of NPP”. Any thoughts?
So my question now is, in an effort at further modifying what I have to enable my being able to use a closed bridge, I know I could perhaps have that taper extended from 12” to 14-15” from the Tip, but my concern is by doing so, that this would cause for the NPP to unfortunately move further back? As many others who go for LD, it’s often overlooked just how drastically far back that NPP moves (15” to as far as 20” for a Revo!). This requires one to completely change from using more Backhand English to primarily using Front Hand English/Negative Backhand English, something I would rather not have to conform to! So if I were to taper an additional 2-4 inches, I would prefer to attempt counteracting any rearward movement of NPP! I‘m thinking by using a longer, perhaps slightly heavier, ferrule (1” Ivory?) that it may have a desired effect of counteracting this “rearward movement of NPP”. Any thoughts?
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Zerksies
Well-known member
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Zerksies
Well-known member
Not my style of cue, but the technology seems cool
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Hard Knock Cues
Well-known member
Don't bridge so far back, your accuracy might improve as well.
I'm not an instructor but bridging 12" back is a lot in my opinion and causes me to miss hit certain shots.
I did say for a medium-strong shot and on a 9ft table, however if I were to go aggressive using only 6-8 inches backstroke as I’m surely able, I’ve found I’m more apt to miss as compared to easing into it using a longer stroke. But I may be the oddball out? Nevertheless, my question had to do with maintaining the Pivot Point of the Shaft after extending the taper from 13” from the Tip to 14-15” by using a slightly heavier Ferrule to offset any deflection reduced(ie=pivot point moved rearward).
Hard Knock Cues
Well-known member
I'm going by what's been talked about from time to time here and it seems if you thin out the shaft a few more inches and put a heavier ferrule on, it would cause more deflection.
I'm only an amateur cue maker so maybe someone with more experience can confirm that.
What you are trying to do is impossible with an existing, finished cue. You will not be able to core out 2oz from the front and move the balance point back 1.5". Even if it was possible, the cue is no longer a Huebler, will no longer play like a Huebler, and will probably fail due to structural integrity. You could build the cue you want, to play like you want, and be an all around better option with the amount of work you will attempt to the Huebler.
I did say for a medium-strong shot and on a 9ft table, however if I were to go aggressive using only 6-8 inches backstroke as I’m surely able, I’ve found I’m more apt to miss as compared to easing into it using a longer stroke. But I may be the oddball out? Nevertheless, my question had to do with maintaining the Pivot Point of the Shaft after extending the taper from 13” from the Tip to 14-15” by using a slightly heavier Ferrule to offset any deflection reduced(ie=pivot point moved rearward
Yes, I agree, as by removing weight from the shaft to increase taper to a few inches behind the Pivot Point, my concern is that it might move the Pivot Point (the point on the shaft where after lining up to target using Center Ball then any Back Hand English cancels out deflection-thereby causing the Cue Ball to roll straight to target) currently at 12” more rearward. By adding weight to the ferrule intentionally causing “more deflection” would theoretically keep the Pivot Point more forward, which I think is a good thing. With the Pivot Point more forward, I find that it’s easier to keep that Pivot Point on the line of the shot, as compared to LD which moves it as far back as 20” from the tip, in which one must adopt much more Front Hand English combined with reverse back hand English in order to keep a 20” PP on line of target : see Dr. Dave‘s Expertise on the subject (https://billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/natural-pivot-length/).
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Sorry to sidetrack this somewhat, but this is just the thing that somewhat puzzles me as to that line of McDermott cues with their adjustable weight and balancing system. The whole basic butt section is hollow. Wonder if they are using some form of inner tube for strength or stability? If not, ya wonder how thet outer core holds up. Somehow they have figured it out as there is a lifetime warranty.