Coring a forearm and leaving it empty in an attempt at moving the balance point

Ok.
At this point, I say, just do it.
But, my money says you won't.
It's always easier to postulate some work.
It's the working that's the tough part.

LOL, completely understood; however, I have about 2-3 weeks left at my current job then I'm taking time off to finish all of my projects, essentially, I'm going to spend 3-4 months in my garage finishing all the crap I've been trying to get done over the last few years, pool cues are a small part of those projects. My plans after that do not involve living in a place with a garage so I need to get this stuff done before I leave, hence I'm taking the time off to do it.
 
LOL, completely understood; however, I have about 2-3 weeks left at my current job then I'm taking time off to finish all of my projects, essentially, I'm going to spend 3-4 months in my garage finishing all the crap I've been trying to get done over the last few years, pool cues are a small part of those projects. My plans after that do not involve living in a place with a garage so I need to get this stuff done before I leave, hence I'm taking the time off to do it.
Either you do it or you don't.
 
I hadn't thought about the threading part, I don't have a tap that long but did think about stepping the end of the core/plug. I don't think a small core (5/16" or smaller) would affect it too much but a 1/2 core may affect the strength of the cue where the bottom of the core contacts the original forum.

Thanks for the input.
Long tap.
What you could do if you wind up coring it. Is
Use lighter weighted wood then
Use something like a ferrule tenon 5/16 or 3/8 thread at the bottom of the core seeing longer taps are readily availble in those sizes.
Not like the picture below but along the thought of the below picture.
 

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You never answered my question - are you a cue maker? If so, show me your work and I'll decide for myself if I should trust your suggestions.

And again, why would add weight to a cue that is already 2oz too heavy for my liking. It should take simple comprehension to understand the physics of that.

Here are a couple that I built, the walnut conversion is specifically a squeeze fit for old Schon shafts. I'm sure that's not enough for you, but whatever.

You were told you how to safely remove the bolt, but you are a joker who came to puff his chest out. Good luck with your project


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Here are a couple that I built, the walnut conversion is specifically a squeeze fit for old Schon shafts. I'm sure that's not enough for you, but whatever.

You were told you how to safely remove the bolt, but you are a joker who came to puff his chest out. Good luck with your project


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I was told how to safely remove that bolt? LMAO, you either lack serious reading comprehension or you're blinded by your group think mentality and respond in a way that, you think, makes you look cool to other members. Why would I want to add weight to a cue that is already 2 oz heavier than my preferred weight, or, why would I want to remove weight from the rear of a cue that is already to forward balance. I'm beginning to think you know nothing about the balance or feel of a pool cue.

Do the math, genius.

The difference between you and I is the difference between Alex and Karl in this video.


Karl Boyles, a well respected player, has ZERO idea of the difference between cues. I also remember reading/watching something about a Philippine player getting a new cue, he had two or three identical cues made so he could find the one with the best hit - that's clearly beyond your capabilities.

Either way, you live inside your little box and are afraid of going outside of it, which, to me, is the definitive definition of sheeple.

I also noticed you have not sent any contact information after starting crap with me, just another keyboard warrior or just a Lassie?
 
Here are a couple that I built, the walnut conversion is specifically a squeeze fit for old Schon shafts. I'm sure that's not enough for you, but whatever.

You were told you how to safely remove the bolt, but you are a joker who came to puff his chest out. Good luck with your project


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And in direct response to your post:

1) "Here are a couple that I built, the walnut conversion is specifically a squeeze fit for old Schon shafts. I'm sure that's not enough for you, but whatever."

a) Well done, good looking joints, that tells me you care about your work but, your last comment of "whatever" indicates you are trying to end the conversation because you know don't want be involved with this conversation anymore. i.e - you're a quitter - not quite a white flag, but close enough.

2) "You were told you how to safely remove the bolt, but you are a joker who came to puff his chest out. Good luck with your project"

I will actually break this down into three parts but first:

Let's point out the grammatical error - "You were told you how to safely remove the bolt" - It's safe to say you made this error in haste but in case you weren't aware (which is what happens when responding in haste), you added an additional you in there, I'm actually assuming it was made in haste/anger for being called out but, bygones.

And just for fun, I will break down my own post - yes, I am mocking you for a grammatical error but I don't want that to distract you, or others, from the details of this post, that's just me responding in like kind.

A) "You were told you how to safely remove the bolt"

a) Removing the weight bolt does nothing for my quest of a properly balanced, and already overweight cue.

B) "but you are a joker who came to puff his chest out"

a) LOL, reading comprehension may be lacking with you (do you not re-read the whole thread (or at least the conversation at hand) before you respond - don't worry, I fully admit I do that sometimes (which doesn't mean the reply isn't warranted) and I feel like an idiot, can you admit that?). Go back and read the thread (and ask the mods to show you the posts that were removed due to personal attacks) and you'll find that I came here to ask a technical question in the 'Ask The Cuemaker' (you still haven't proved you're a cue maker, I've made/modified cues also, that doesn't make me a cue maker - if I were a cue maker, I wouldn't be asking these questions, would I, genius) forum about modifying a cue to better suit my needs/wants/personal preferences and was personally attacked - which is against the rules by the way*. I understand there are people that have some apprehension because it is a classic cue built by a respected cue builder and if there's anything that proves my point - it's this thread - the last thing I want to do is destroy a classic cue built by a cue builder I respect. Point being, I didn't stick my chest out, I responded in kind to those that did. Deal with it.

C) "Good luck with your project"

a) Again, that's an attempt, by you, to end the conversation because 1) you have better things to do with your time (which would disappoint me because it means you didn't put any real thought into any of your replies or 2) you have no idea what you're talking about and only responded to puff your own chest out.

*For the record, my number one issue with AZB is I despise the rules because this is supposed to be a virtual pool room and the pool rooms I grew up in you were able to speak your mind (you voice your opinion, I voice mine, you cuss at me, I cuss at you, then we go have biscuits and gravy at Perkins at 2AM and laugh about it all), but here there are people like you that get a pass for starting sh** because you're a long standing member so and it's those very people that prevent people from coming on here and giving their input due to fear of retaliation.
 
And in direct response to your post:

1) "Here are a couple that I built, the walnut conversion is specifically a squeeze fit for old Schon shafts. I'm sure that's not enough for you, but whatever."

a) Well done, good looking joints, that tells me you care about your work but, your last comment of "whatever" indicates you are trying to end the conversation because you know don't want be involved with this conversation anymore. i.e - you're a quitter - not quite a white flag, but close enough.

2) "You were told you how to safely remove the bolt, but you are a joker who came to puff his chest out. Good luck with your project"

I will actually break this down into three parts but first:

Let's point out the grammatical error - "You were told you how to safely remove the bolt" - It's safe to say you made this error in haste but in case you weren't aware (which is what happens when responding in haste), you added an additional you in there, I'm actually assuming it was made in haste/anger for being called out but, bygones.

And just for fun, I will break down my own post - yes, I am mocking you for a grammatical error but I don't want that to distract you, or others, from the details of this post, that's just me responding in like kind.

A) "You were told you how to safely remove the bolt"

a) Removing the weight bolt does nothing for my quest of a properly balanced, and already overweight cue.

B) "but you are a joker who came to puff his chest out"

a) LOL, reading comprehension may be lacking with you (do you not re-read the whole thread (or at least the conversation at hand) before you respond - don't worry, I fully admit I do that sometimes (which doesn't mean the reply isn't warranted) and I feel like an idiot, can you admit that?). Go back and read the thread (and ask the mods to show you the posts that were removed due to personal attacks) and you'll find that I came here to ask a technical question in the 'Ask The Cuemaker' (you still haven't proved you're a cue maker, I've made/modified cues also, that doesn't make me a cue maker - if I were a cue maker, I wouldn't be asking these questions, would I, genius) forum about modifying a cue to better suit my needs/wants/personal preferences and was personally attacked - which is against the rules by the way*. I understand there are people that have some apprehension because it is a classic cue built by a respected cue builder and if there's anything that proves my point - it's this thread - the last thing I want to do is destroy a classic cue built by a cue builder I respect. Point being, I didn't stick my chest out, I responded in kind to those that did. Deal with it.

C) "Good luck with your project"

a) Again, that's an attempt, by you, to end the conversation because 1) you have better things to do with your time (which would disappoint me because it means you didn't put any real thought into any of your replies or 2) you have no idea what you're talking about and only responded to puff your own chest out.

*For the record, my number one issue with AZB is I despise the rules because this is supposed to be a virtual pool room and the pool rooms I grew up in you were able to speak your mind (you voice your opinion, I voice mine, you cuss at me, I cuss at you, then we go have biscuits and gravy at Perkins at 2AM and laugh about it all), but here there are people like you that get a pass for starting sh** because you're a long standing member so and it's those very people that prevent people from coming on here and giving their input due to fear of retaliation.

1a) I'll expand: Whatever, you're just moving the goalposts to continue being a dick, so there's no point expending the effort

Every other thing) you got me on a cell phone text entry error, whoops, but I'm not reading the rest of that essay. You care more about posting on the internet than you care about working on a cue, I understand. Good luck with your project. I'm not getting a pass, they ban me often enough, but I value my time more than you value your own so I am ending my post on a positive note
 
Anyone ever core the front of a forearm and leave it empty?.

I have a Huebler I'm trying to 1) move the BP back about 1.5" and 2) reduce the overall weight by approximately 2oz (give or take .5oz). The number one thing is I do NOT want to mess with the finish in anyway. My current thought is to remove the 5/16 - 18 pin and replace with a G10 or aluminum 3/8 x 10 - I'm sticking to the 3/8 because that's what all of my players have/will have. The 5/16 pin (according to my research) weighs approximately .5 oz while the G10 is .33oz and the aluminum is .4oz so I won't gain much, if any, benefit from that but I will have to remove more wood in the forearm for the larger joint pin. One thing I have considered is drilling/coring the forearm deeper than needed for the 3/8 pin and leaving it empty, similar to an LD shaft.

One other note: The shaft will lose a little weight because of the larger hole for the 3/8 pin, and the shaft needs to be re-tapered, it's pretty thick starting at about 12". I haven't put much thought into that part though so not sure how much weight I will lose, I would give it a rough guess of .25 to .5oz overall overall weight reduction, give or take .25oz? This can/will be done first so I have an idea of how much I need to modify the butt.

In essence, I'm trying to nickel and dime my way to the desired weight/BP.

Thoughts and ideas?
Core it and fill w foam. Then go w lighter pin.
 
That was my original thought but to make any real difference I would have to core it a bit to large for my liking as the core would get too close to the SS collar and wouldn't leave much original wood for the threads of the collar. Actually, I originally thought of going deep and plugging it with basswood then add a shorter plug on top of that for the pin.
Foam it and plug 4 pin.
 
1a) I'll expand: Whatever, you're just moving the goalposts to continue being a dick, so there's no point expending the effort

Every other thing) you got me on a cell phone text entry error, whoops, but I'm not reading the rest of that essay. You care more about posting on the internet than you care about working on a cue, I understand. Good luck with your project. I'm not getting a pass, they ban me often enough, but I value my time more than you value your own so I am ending my post on a positive note

No, I'm not moving the goal posts, you answered a question in a cue building forum, and I'm trying to determine if you're a cue builder. You could simply answer yes or no? Seems pretty easy.

EDIT: And feel free to apologize after you realize I didn't come here to puff my chest out ;)
 
Foam it and plug 4 pin.

Thanks for the input, I knew it was used in CF shafts. I only need it for one cue so I can't see myself spending $60 on a two part pour faom but I did see the Chris Hightower uses acoustic foam and cuts it in strips, I also read some people use cotton balls. The posts were about shafts but I don't see why that wouldn't work here.
 
No, I'm not moving the goal posts, you answered a question in a cue building forum, and I'm trying to determine if you're a cue builder. You could simply answer yes or no? Seems pretty easy.

EDIT: And feel free to apologize after you realize I didn't come here to puff my chest out ;)

I posted photos of cues I built, not sure what else to do for you there. I don't call myself a cue builder because it's not my job, but I have dismantled and restored enough cues to know how to get that huge bolt out. As far as moving the balance point, which was your primary goal, good luck

You should really go buy that soldering iron if you want to make progress.

If not, playing on the internet seems to help pass the time for you
 
I posted photos of cues I built, not sure what else to do for you there. I don't call myself a cue builder because it's not my job, but I have dismantled and restored enough cues to know how to get that huge bolt out. As far as moving the balance point, which was your primary goal, good luck

You should really go buy that soldering iron if you want to make progress.

If not, playing on the internet seems to help pass the time for you

Ok, if you've built enough cues to know how to get that weight bolt out then maybe you can explain to me how removing thata weight bolt will help my situation? Hint, I'm not coring from the back, my weight issues are in the forearm joint area?

Seems you're stuck on trying to prove you're smarter than me because you know how to take a weight bolt out and I haven't done that yet, trust me, if I wanted it out I'd get it out. I've read the threads and done the research (this isn't my first rodeo), I just don't want to and most importantly, I don't NEED to take the weight bolt out, but that seems to be going over your head or you're being antagonistic, either way, you started this argument and now you're trying to weasel your way out of it.

Oh, and yes, I know, either I do it or I don't. And in fact, I may not even do it. If you go back and read, and comprehend, my posts you'll see mention of a bar cue I am going to convert before I touch this cue, if that cue ends of matching my preferred weight/balance I may not even touch this cue.
 
Ok, if you've built enough cues to know how to get that weight bolt out then maybe you can explain to me how removing thata weight bolt will help my situation? Hint, I'm not coring from the back, my weight issues are in the forearm joint area?

Seems you're stuck on trying to prove you're smarter than me because you know how to take a weight bolt out and I haven't done that yet, trust me, if I wanted it out I'd get it out. I've read the threads and done the research (this isn't my first rodeo), I just don't want to and most importantly, I don't NEED to take the weight bolt out, but that seems to be going over your head or you're being antagonistic, either way, you started this argument and now you're trying to weasel your way out of it.

Oh, and yes, I know, either I do it or I don't. And in fact, I may not even do it. If you go back and read, and comprehend, my posts you'll see mention of a bar cue I am going to convert before I touch this cue, if that cue ends of matching my preferred weight/balance I may not even touch this cue.

It's not about a weight bolt specifically, it's about minimum damage to the cue first.

You're convinced though, so go get a drill and get hogging, good luck!
 
It's not about a weight bolt specifically, it's about minimum damage to the cue first.

You're convinced though, so go get a drill and get hogging, good luck!

You are correct, minimum damage to the cue, why would I want to remove the weight bolt, thus having to remove the butt (adding more chance of issues - not to mention, I'd have to deal with the finish at that point), then have to core all the way to the front of the cue? Do you get root canals done through your ass? However, removing the pin is easy and I will be coring EXACTLY where I need to remove weight. Face it, the idea of removing the weight bolt is asinine in my situation, see why I questioned your abilities? Even I know removing the weight bolt does nothing for me.
 
You are correct, minimum damage to the cue, why would I want to remove the weight bolt, thus having to remove the butt (adding more chance of issues - not to mention, I'd have to deal with the finish at that point), then have to core all the way to the front of the cue? Do you get root canals done through your ass? However, removing the pin is easy and I will be coring EXACTLY where I need to remove weight. Face it, the idea of removing the weight bolt is asinine in my situation, see why I questioned your abilities? Even I know removing the weight bolt does nothing for me.

Why would you have to remove the butt to unscrew a bolt?
 
Why would you have to remove the butt to unscrew a bolt?

I don't have to remove the butt to unscrew the weight bolt but, it's a Huebler and the butt cap is held on by the weight bolt, the butt cap is also, more than likely acetal/delrin, which, and I may be wrong, does not do well with adhesive's? So if I remove the weight bolt, what does that do to the butt cap, does it stay on just fine or does it not? Still, getting a root canal through my ass is not really how I like to work so I'll go ahead and stick with pulling the pin.

EDIT: I removed my last snarky comment because this conversation has taken a turn, it's a slow, long, turn, but a turn none the less. Willing to learn as much as I can by whomever is willing to teach it ;)
 
I don't have to remove the butt to unscrew the weight bolt but, it's a Huebler and the butt cap is held on by the weight bolt, the butt cap is also, more than likely acetal/delrin, which, and I may be wrong, does not do well with adhesive's? So if I remove the weight bolt, what does that do to the butt cap, does it stay on just fine or does it not? Still, getting a root canal through my ass is not really how I like to work so I'll go ahead and stick with pulling the pin.

EDIT: I removed my last snarky comment because this conversation has taken a turn, it's a slow, long, turn, but a turn none the less. Willing to learn as much as I can by whomever is willing to teach it ;)

That buttcap is not held on by that screw, but you're just picking an asinine point to rant on.

You probably should get that root canal
 
Mr. Palmer
You have a valid point on the weight bolt.
The weight bolt sits against the Aluminum post that the butt cap is threaded on to. Aluminum heats up quicker than steel if that's what the weight bolt is.
Chances are good that it could unscrew from the Cue along with the butt cap.
Get all the info you can now before you address your task.
AND ROOT CANAL
That's hilarious!
 
Mr. Palmer
You have a valid point on the weight bolt.
The weight bolt sits against the Aluminum post that the butt cap is threaded on to. Aluminum heats up quicker than steel if that's what the weight bolt is.
Chances are good that it could unscrew from the Cue along with the butt cap.
Get all the info you can now before you address your task.
AND ROOT CANAL
That's hilarious!

If you use the type of soldering iron mentioned, all of the heat would be on the screw, allowing quick and easy removal

No blowtorches needed here, just the right tools. A keyboard is not the right tool either
 
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