Diamond table material choices. Dymondwood & Dymalux

[Midasian72]

Are you planning on getting the Pro-Am or the Professional?

EDIT: See my comment below


Hi everyone. I'm thinking of purchasing a Diamond table and i'm having a nightmare on what materials are available and what they even look like on a diamond table.

As far as I am aware, Dymondwood is no longer available on new tables and has been switched to Dymalux? If so, what finishes are available in Dymalux? Is it just Rosewood or have other options been added?

I was interested in Walnut but I don't want oak stained Walnut, i'd rather have dymondwood or dymalux walnut.
Ontop of that I don't know what each finish looks like on each different material. I've gone over a number of websites but they don't seem to have updated pictures for the new material and Diamond don't fully list what is available and don't have full picture examples.

Could anybody help me out please?

Thanks,

Sean

Hi Sean. Im pretty new to the forum. Did you get a Diamond table eventually? If so, what did you end up purchasing & where from? Where in the UK are you based? Im based in the West Midlands. I have a Diamond Professional 9ft. Oak stained walnut with Dymondwood rails. Simonis 860 HR cloth in rournament blue. I installed the table myself. Please send me a message if you want to discuss anything or just have a general natter about Diamond tables etc. Cheers Ian.

 

[jalapus logan]

Here's my table. Old school red label Diamond with what I think is the cherry finished dymondwood you are asking about. Love it, the old dymondwood can't be beat. Now I have to move it due to divorce. So it goes boys...

 

[muskyed]

Here's my table. Old school red label Diamond with what I think is the cherry finished dymondwood you are asking about. Love it, the old dymondwood can't be beat. Now I have to move it due to divorce. So it goes boys...

Thats a nice table.

 

[Black-Balled]

Update

Update:
I got in touch with Diamond to see if they could clear a few things out with me.
Seems I was right about them now having any dymondwood for new tables. I think you can only get rosewood in dymalux now and everything else is either oak or maple stained + the black plastic one.
However... They have thrown a curveball at me and offered me a used table in dymondwood Cherry. For the life of me I can't find a single picture of a dymondwood cherry table. I didn't know they even did cherry apart from a maple or oak stain. Does anyone have a picture or link to a cherry dymondwood table? I think they might of made a mistake and they meant rosewood

Ask them to send you pictures. It's not that hard

 

[Black-Balled]

Here's my table. Old school red label Diamond with what I think is the cherry finished dymondwood you are asking about. Love it, the old dymondwood can't be beat. Now I have to move it due to divorce. So it goes boys...

Agreed that because that material is synthetic, it will unlikely ever look different?

I have stained wood. This is what it looks like in real life:

 

[ShortBusRuss]

The cherry d-wood is a cost saving and I agree, probably the best option even if cost wasn't a factor because you can't buy them new anymore. Do you know if Cherry dymondwood is a thing or do they mean rosewood by mistake?

Word of caution: You better make damned sure they are not offering you a "Red Label" table, if they are selling a used table that is no longer available.

The Red Label tables did not have the correct downangle on the rails, and as such, the rail compressed when a ball hits, and "lifted up" the ball, which created an extremely short rebound. The CB didn't take the right angles off the rails, and banks were miles short.
Most of these problems were fixed by the "Blue Label" version of the table.

 

[tuffstuff07]

Word of caution: You better make damned sure they are not offering you a "Red Label" table, if they are selling a used table that is no longer available.

The Red Label tables did not have the correct downangle on the rails, and as such, the rail compressed when a ball hits, and "lifted up" the ball, which created an extremely short rebound. The CB didn't take the right angles off the rails, and banks were miles short.
Most of these problems were fixed by the "Blue Label" version of the table.

Depending on the table you can get different rubber and it will play better

 

[Poolmanis]

Word of caution: You better make damned sure they are not offering you a "Red Label" table, if they are selling a used table that is no longer available.

The Red Label tables did not have the correct downangle on the rails, and as such, the rail compressed when a ball hits, and "lifted up" the ball, which created an extremely short rebound. The CB didn't take the right angles off the rails, and banks were miles short.
Most of these problems were fixed by the "Blue Label" version of the table.

THIS! Be sure you get Blue Label!

 

[ShortBusRuss]

THIS! Be sure you get Blue Label!

To this day, I am still salty about getting a Red Label from Diamond, and not knowing better. I was playing fairly sporty at the time, but practiced HEAVILY for Derby the year I got that table.. It threw my banking off terribly, and really jacked up my stroke in general, because the rails were extremely springy.

I was leading John Morra 2-1 in the first round of the One Pocket after he beat SVB in Banks the night before..And had multiple opportunities to finish him off with a cross corner bank in the next two games. That damn Red Label and practicing heavily on it, cost me my first win against a pro. I didn't really "dog it".. It's just that those cross corners on a Red Label are extremely speed sensitive. A little harder, and it shortens up a half diamond or more. They played terribly.

I just don't play enough to be able to adjust reliably for that kind of table inconsistency. Fortunately, I got a Blue Label these days... But I am a lot older, and eyesight is going..