Where to place my table?

Pitbullgrin

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Hello all, I need some help. I have a 7 ft bar table and want to minimize stroke interference as much as possible. Originally I wanted the table along the long wall, fitting in the cut out towards the top of the drawing. I realized I only had 10ft 4in for the short side and with cue length, apparently it's not long enough. Any ideas?
 

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If you intend to stay in this house for a good length of time and truly enjoy playing pool I highly recommend replacing those support columns with an overhead steel beam . You can minimize the cost by just replacing the two columns closest to that end wall if that will provide adequate room length - it seems to be the case for a 7 foot table - depending on how far that third column is from that end wall. You will not regret the open space created in that basement by placing an overhead steel support beam.
 
Our barbox is in the basement. and I'm just short of the space to use a full cue at every possible angle. The room is about 12'4" by about 20'. For shots perpendicular to the long rail, and shooting with the cue ball within an inch or two of that long rail, we have a short cue. I bought a weighted 48" cue, but we could probably use the 52" cue just as effectively. For any other shot, your regular cue works without issue. The weighted short cue isn't perfect, but it is the best possible fix for not having to jack up your cue to shoot.

I agree with Mike that some structural modifications will be needed if you want full unrestricted play, but the short cue really isn't that bad, and for my space, it gets used fairly infrequently. Another option is a six foot barbox. Those make the game more about position and cueball control, which translate well to larger tables.
 
If you intend to stay in this house for a good length of time and truly enjoy playing pool I highly recommend replacing those support columns with an overhead steel beam . You can minimize the cost by just replacing the two columns closest to that end wall if that will provide adequate room length - it seems to be the case for a 7 foot table - depending on how far that third column is from that end wall. You will not regret the open space created in that basement by placing an overhead steel support beam.

Get an engineer involved. Often a full beam replacement is not necessary, you can put steel on both sides of the wood and bolt through, creating a steel clad wood beam.

Most residential architects and residential engineers won't think of doing it that way, but it is a valid option that can save thousands. We did it on a barn several years ago.
 
Hello all, I need some help. I have a 7 ft bar table and want to minimize stroke interference as much as possible. Originally I wanted the table along the long wall, fitting in the cut out towards the top of the drawing. I realized I only had 10ft 4in for the short side and with cue length, apparently it's not long enough. Any ideas?
Yes. Draw out the room carefully on graph paper with one square for six inches. Then draw in lines five feet from each wall or post. In the case of posts, that five-foot line will be a circle, more or less.

Then color in all of the area between the 5-foot lines and the walls and posts. Your table has to fit in the unshaded area in the middle.

Note that the sales propaganda diagram above does not work for most people -- it gives a very crowded room. If you're comfortable with only 4 feet between the table and the walls, then use 4-foot lines in your drawing.
 
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If you intend to stay in this house for a good length of time and truly enjoy playing pool I highly recommend replacing those support columns with an overhead steel beam . You can minimize the cost by just replacing the two columns closest to that end wall if that will provide adequate room length - it seems to be the case for a 7 foot table - depending on how far that third column is from that end wall. You will not regret the open space created in that basement by placing an overhead steel support beam.
I looked at getting rid of staircase to open up finished basement and add 2nd table. my guy said I was looking at around $40k.

Simple suggestion for another's money.
 
@Pitbullgrin
my house has plenty of room for your table
i would be happy to help a fellow azb'er out and let you place your table at my house
😂;)
good luck with your table....(y)
 
I looked at getting rid of staircase to open up finished basement and add 2nd table. my guy said I was looking at around $40k.

Simple suggestion for another's money.
I looked at getting rid of staircase to open up finished basement and add 2nd table. my guy said I was looking at around $40k.

Simple suggestion for another's money.
Get rid of the staircase? Were you planning on adding an elevator?????? A fireman's pole??? A slide might be kinda cool.
 
I looked at getting rid of staircase to open up finished basement and add 2nd table. my guy said I was looking at around $40k.

Simple suggestion for another's money.
My suggestion is a very accepted method of removing basement support poles. It does not have to be a super expensive option - and it is done routinely. I have no idea of the poster’s handyman skills or his financial situation- do you?
 
My suggestion is a very accepted method of removing basement support poles. It does not have to be a super expensive option - and it is done routinely. I have no idea of the poster’s handyman skills or his financial situation- do you?
No idea on his skills or financials but I can't imagine it'd be too expensive. When we we're building our house i asked the builder if he can span the basement without any posts. He put in a 30ft steel beam with a post by the stairs that's inside a short 3ft wall.
 
My suggestion is a very accepted method of removing basement support poles. It does not have to be a super expensive option - and it is done routinely. I have no idea of the poster’s handyman skills or his financial situation- do you?
No and major house renovations/ changes must assume competent actors...
 
No idea on his skills or financials but I can't imagine it'd be too expensive. When we we're building our house i asked the builder if he can span the basement without any posts. He put in a 30ft steel beam with a post by the stairs that's inside a short 3ft wall.
I'd imagine my 40k woulda been a lot lower if my basement warent finished already.
 
Here's another tool to calculate how much room you have for various size tables. I think the interesting info for you is the Shorty Stick Size for 3.00" Stroking Room (47" oughta work for your room width). Reduce the shorty size for more stroking room (reduce 1" for 4" stroking room, etc.).

You (and anybody else) are welcome to a copy of this spreadsheet - just PM me your email address. To use it you just enter the stuff in blue (Room Width/Length, Cue Length and desired Stroking Room) and it shows the results for all the tables listed.

pj
chgo

Screenshot 2025-02-03 131043.png
 
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Hello all, I need some help. I have a 7 ft bar table and want to minimize stroke interference as much as possible. Originally I wanted the table along the long wall, fitting in the cut out towards the top of the drawing. I realized I only had 10ft 4in for the short side and with cue length, apparently it's not long enough. Any ideas?
Your best bet is to place it on the right side of your diagram. Get your 5' distance off the wall, and you'll only be instructed by one post. It sucks, but it's manageable.
 
Get an engineer involved. Often a full beam replacement is not necessary, you can put steel on both sides of the wood and bolt through, creating a steel clad wood beam.

Most residential architects and residential engineers won't think of doing it that way, but it is a valid option that can save thousands. We did it on a barn several years ago.
Luckily, the guy I bought my house from was a contractor, and I made alteration a condition of sale. He simply bolted a steel ‘I’ beam to the main floor joist, and thus gave me basement room for a 9’ table. Headroom only allowed a singe 8’/2-bulb shop light though (LED bulbs helped).
 
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