Assembling A joint thoughts

jokers_wild96

jokers_wild96

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So in a few days I'll be assembling an a joint for a cue. I've done plenty to know how to do them so this isn't that post. But this morning on my drive to work, I pondered the question. Can you run the tenon the other way into the handle of the cue. I know the traditional way of running the tenon into the forearm but is there any reason it cant be done the other way. What's your thoughts and experience if you've done it that way.
 
When I do an A joint (I usually do a full length core instead) I always make the tenon on the forearm and insert it to the handle. Especially if there is going to be a wrap, as I will then drill a small hole in the handle for excess glue relief and it gets covered by the wrap.
 
I usually have the tenon on the forearm and into the handle. It can go the other way if you need to move the balance point. builder's preference I would say.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
I usually have the tenon on the forearm and into the handle. It can go the other way if you need to move the balance point. builder's preference I would say.
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As far as altering balance point etc, it does not even have to be at the traditional location. Many ways to skin this cat, including other types of joinery.

Like on this Adam cue. Would this still be called an "A" joint though?




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jokers_wild96 said:
So in a few days I'll be assembling an a joint for a cue. I've done plenty to know how to do them so this isn't that post. But this morning on my drive to work, I pondered the question. Can you run the tenon the other way into the handle of the cue. I know the traditional way of running the tenon into the forearm but is there any reason it cant be done the other way. What's your thoughts and experience if you've done it that way.
Click to expand...
If the forearm has points, it makes sense to do it on the forearm.
If it has no points ( specially if it's cored) you can tenon to the handle.
I use a 14"+ core and go to the handle
 
ratcues said:
Viking uses finger joints for the A Joint.
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Yes, I have seen that.

And Joss did a long time ago.

I am wondering if anybody has ever used any kind of expanding tenon or expanding "fingers" in a cue. Might be a lot of effort for little or no advantage. But mechanical joinery surely is better than just adhesives. No? For example, threading parts.
 
jokers_wild96 said:
So in a few days I'll be assembling an a joint for a cue. I've done plenty to know how to do them so this isn't that post. But this morning on my drive to work, I pondered the question. Can you run the tenon the other way into the handle of the cue. I know the traditional way of running the tenon into the forearm but is there any reason it cant be done the other way. What's your thoughts and experience if you've done it that way.
Click to expand...
If the cue is getting a wrap it is normally stronger with tenon going into the forearm. Because the wrap groove is thinner than the forearm. But if it is not getting a wrap and using equal strength handle and forearm woods it should be stronger with tenon going into the handle because the handle is thicker than the forearm. I have built many cues both ways.
 
I've seen some fairly prominent cuemakers that build A joints with NO tenon. One of them even called me when I was starting out, to recommend the method.
(I do not recommend it, but it can be done)
 
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It all has it's moments.
I remember when someone who is known on az but not a Cue maker,
Wanted to change the name of short spliced points.
Didn't happen but we thought he /it was funny.
Remember the word
KISS
Keep it simple stupid!

Not you Doc, your good in my book.
 
ratcues said:
Viking uses finger joints for the A Joint.
Click to expand...
Joss also did it for a while. I sold Birdseye butt blanks for a while that a Mill spliced up for me that way. It is a good method, but always required a wrap to cover it up as I did not like the look of it too well. Wrapped cues started losing popularity and the supplier got out of the cue wood business. So I quit carrying them.
 
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The bigger challenge is how you assemble the A joint. If you put too much tension in the joint by overtightening the joint you may have a cue that will warp or develop a wobble. What I do is dry assemble the joint with only enough tension to close any gaps and mark the location on both halves. When you add the glue, it acts like lubricant, and it makes it easy to overtighten. Like most things in cue making the execution is as important as design.
 
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