Wrap sealing
- Thread starter j2pac
- Start date
Not technically a cue maker, but my thoughts on this would be if it's a wrapped cue you have used for awhile, no. All your hand oils, what ever else, some even rub a sticky wax and burnish it in to make it less slippery. I would think they would want to put a new wrap on first before coating. Also it may be possible to coat your existing wrap first with something such as Bullseye Zinsser Seal coat, which is a dewaxed shellac, and maybe that would seal it good enough to be finished. I have a friend that had a cue refinished and they put a new wrap on first before coating over it.
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I just did a leather wrap on a Meucci, it was cleared over but there was no sign of epoxy. That wrap unwound like it was regular linen. And as thin as that layer is im surprised its so durable. I have another I'm working on trying to fix a little chip in the finish on the wrap. There's hardly anything there.
RidgeRaider
Well-known member
I have never finished over a linen wrap, I've "sealed" them with bullseye sanding sealer before. I am curious, do you mean finish over it with clear like meucci's? Or just seal it with some type of sealant?
You can definitely seal and clear a linen wrap. Obviously it helps that the wrap is nice and clean and very tight. The looser the wrap, they more issues you potentially will have down the line.
Another alternative if you want that wrapless feel is stacked leather, that can be sanded incredibly smooth and poished to a high gloss.
Ryan is obviously the stacked leather boss, he's wraps are perfect!
Another alternative if you want that wrapless feel is stacked leather, that can be sanded incredibly smooth and poished to a high gloss.
Ryan is obviously the stacked leather boss, he's wraps are perfect!
Like Meucci.
Correct. I should have clarified that. Meucci used sealers but not epoxy.
What grit? 220 or much finer?
It depends. There are a couple of things I factor into it. Color of linen being the most important. It can discolor during the process. I may start ith a lighter grit and seal with a different type of sealer first. There is no one-size-fits-all when refinishing cues.
RidgeRaider
Well-known member
Only thing I could think of to watch out for when doing it, if you don't cut the wrap groove deeper to account for the finish height over the linen, you're gonna end up with a ridge over the wrap section.Like Meucci.
So if the idea is to just re-fresh the current linen and clear over it, I think that'd present a ridge.
Removing old linen, adding depth to wrap channel to account for say 3 thou clear on either side, re-wrap linen, clear over, should be glass smooth.
I use seal coat on all my furniture refinishes. Absolutely wonderful product and acts as a universal sealer. Topcoat with almost any product as long as you topcoat over a completely cured base coat of sealer.
I especially like it as a grain sealer and build up product under table top varnish.
You give great advice Sir!
Thank you, long time woodworker here. You made a real good point about letting it cure. Most think when it dries to the touch you can do another coat, just doesn't work that way. Lacquer and polyurethane are the same, if you don't recoat in their time window, you will have to wait about 3 days or you'll get a horrible result, sometimes it will crinkle up just like if spraying lacquer over poly does.
True.
Applying finish coats over a product not fully cured traps drying agents between coats causing there wrinkle effect you describe.
On another note waiting to long can make the base coat so hard it rejects the finish coat.
Sanding and the coarseness of the paper can also have positive or negative results. We found with marine varnish that sanding with paper finer than 220 did not produce enough tooth for the top coats to adhere too. Thus causing separation between coats.
I prefer nothing over 180 for for high gloss exterior varnish. 220 is fine but I use 180 with a light touch on the paper. Gives the same effect as 220.. I will add that Mohawk has a table top varnish and their recommendation is up to 320. That is to avoid scratches and due to the curing process of their product.
If in doubt call the techs at the manufacturer of any product your new too. They love to talk chemistry with skilled trades people..