I need a little help identifying this Gold Crown
- Thread starter BobbyD963
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I'm not an expert but it looks like a 1 or 2. The 3 had the much smaller score counters and the bronze metal trim. The pedestal looks like it might have been repainted?
In any case, $700 for any GC is a nice price. What are your plans for it? Are the cushions good?
In any case, $700 for any GC is a nice price. What are your plans for it? Are the cushions good?
Looks like a GCll, with the large ball shelves. My GCl's only had a ball return box. Maybe the drop pocket version only.
BobbyD963
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Im going to paint it white and put gold brunswick decals on the aprons. Im keeping the top rails natural woodgrain. I bought Samonis 860 cloth tournament blue. I have a reference picture I found online that I want it to look like. I wouldn’t be surprised if the owner of the table in my reference photo is a member here, but I don’t know.
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BobbyD963
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Also im having the shop I bought it from put k-55 super speed cushions on it and tightening the pockets to 4.25. Its funny I have always wanted a gold crown, and I finally had the opportunity to get one in a place to put it but I haven’t shot a competitive game of pool in over 20 years and it’s not like riding a bike. I used to be able to run a nine ball rack no problem now I’m lucky if I make two shots in a row and set myself up for the third shot.. i’m hoping having this new table will help with lots of practice get my game where it used to be.
That might be from here. There is a member here who found all the paint codes from sherwin williams and posted them for the original GC1 colors about 10 years ago.
Here is the paint code thread: https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/gold-crown-paint-codes-all-4-colors.489750/
And here is a very detailed thread by member @rexus31 of restoring his GC1:
Note, if you have the cushions replaced without re-bevelling the wood rail, the table won't be completely right. The shape of the rubber changed sometime in the 1970's during the early GC3 years, and none of the modern cushions match up perfectly. Up to you how far you want to take it. The info is in Rexus' thread.
And here is a very detailed thread by member @rexus31 of restoring his GC1:
Note, if you have the cushions replaced without re-bevelling the wood rail, the table won't be completely right. The shape of the rubber changed sometime in the 1970's during the early GC3 years, and none of the modern cushions match up perfectly. Up to you how far you want to take it. The info is in Rexus' thread.
Do the rail bolts tighten into threaded metal plates that are screwed into bottom of rail? Or do the bolts thread into acrons (sp) that are inside the rail wood?
I think the plates were in GC I and switched to acrons in the GC II version.... not positive but that's what I noticed when covering models from the 60s at local univ.
I think the plates were in GC I and switched to acrons in the GC II version.... not positive but that's what I noticed when covering models from the 60s at local univ.
Incorrect. Floating nutplates were available on the Gold Crown I somewhere around the mid sixties.
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You've got a Gold Crown I. Nice score!
I would ask lots of questions of the shop before you have them do the work. There's no telling what's already been done to the table as it's 53-65 years old, depending on when it was built/sold. If it has its original Monarch cushions, the subrail bevel will need to be adjusted to properly accept modern K55 cushions (correct cushion for the table) as they are slightly larger (1/8") that the original Monarch cushions which are no longer available. Failing to properly adjust the bevel will result in the possibility the cushion height will be off and the certainty of the table loosing its 2:1 playing surface of 100" x 50". Because the modern replacement cushions are 1/8" larger, installing them on an unmodified subrail results in a playing surface of 99.75" x 49.75"; not a true 2:1 ratio. Steve Leistikow (SoCal local) is one of the best mechanics in the country. He did the rail work on the Gold Crown I I restored and tightened the corners to 4 1/8" and the sides to 4 7/8". I made the table look its best, Steve made it play its best. At Steve's recommendation, I went with the Diamond Black K55 cushions. The table plays beautifully.
Congrats on the table and best of luck with it. Just be sure you hire someone who knows what they are doing so you get what you pay for and are happy with it.
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It's a Gold Crown I, Jay.
5" corners and 5.5" sides aren't buckets?
I don't usually disagree with maha.......but I had mine reduced to 4-1/4 by RKC and the table plays perfect...you can fire a ball down the rail and it will go in...hit it bad and it will reject it like a baby trying to be fed lima beans.
I "think" what maha actually means is don't "shim" it....shimmed tables play like gaffed up garbage.... IF you are going to reduce the pockets....find someone (like RKC) that re-does the rail wood and cuts it to reduce the pockets.
Formerly a Arizona Golden 8-Ball table - GCII
I took it down to the component level and had the rail trim and all metal powder coated...I stripped the wood and stained and clear coated it black........Rail wood redone and recovered by RKC - converted to drop pockets - Nothing against the Diamond tables...but I would rather play on this table all day.
Nice looking table, why does it seem like I like everyone else's better than mine??
BobbyD963
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Wouldn’t tighter pockets be more of a challenge? So if im practicing on a table with tight pockets and ultimately end up being able to drain shots, wouldn’t that mean my game improved? Forgive me if im not up to speed on billiard terminology but I don’t understand what you mean by buckets. If the table didnt have a ball return or didn’t have drop pockets and whenever you made a shot the ball just dropped to the floor, you still made the shot. What difference does it make if its drop pockets, “buckets”, or sand pales catching the balls? I dont mean to come off rude, just kind of matching your vibe.
He lives in the past. I wouldn't go tighter than 4.5" corners if you want to have fun and have friends play too. As said before you need to do a subrail mod(lengthen the subrail and change the angle so new cushions play ok) for it to play good. Contact jack Zimmerman on FB. Good guy and does great work. BTW, standard GC's did have big pockets for a reason: they were designed for commercial rooms where you want JoePublic to have fun and come back. They weren't intended for tough tournament play.
one: as said how you change them is most important.
and two just because the pockets are tighter does not mean your game improves faster because of it. it can easily hurt your game. as you miss more you tend to change things for the worse.
and its much harder to play perfect position and still make the ball naturally so.
and you lose cheating the pockets for position which with tight pockets that same way of getting position is lost.
plus its more fun making balls than missing them. and if you are stringing racks together than you have a great case for tighter pockets
if not then why handicapp yourself.
just me but to each his own.
and two just because the pockets are tighter does not mean your game improves faster because of it. it can easily hurt your game. as you miss more you tend to change things for the worse.
and its much harder to play perfect position and still make the ball naturally so.
and you lose cheating the pockets for position which with tight pockets that same way of getting position is lost.
plus its more fun making balls than missing them. and if you are stringing racks together than you have a great case for tighter pockets
if not then why handicapp yourself.
just me but to each his own.
i do live in the past where every town almost had one or more pool rooms with people playing and having fun. i hardly ever see fun players hitting balls on 41/4 inch pockets. as its no fun. and hardly find it easy to be near a pool room with action and atmosphere.
Before you replace the rubber, check with a competent table mechanic. My mechanic - with many years of experience - had me leave my old GC1 cushions in place. He says that the old rubber is better than what's available now. That was about 10 years ago and the cushions still have no issues.