how do you keep your tip shaped without miscuing all the time

Rusty in Montana said:
On a new to me carbon fiber shaft it has a Horo soft tip I believe it's called a Helio tip and like my G2 tips I've not scuffed any of them in quite some time .
The Horo soft is definitely not a marshmallow tip and hasn't mushroomed whatsoever after some serious play and no miss cues as of yet either .

I really enjoyed playing pool at the Colored Stone in Toronto when I was there many years ago now a very nice place I thought it's sad to hear it's no longer open .
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nice, a soft tip that holds its shape and doesnt miscue is exactly what i want lol. how long you had that horo on there now
 
KINGSCOURT905 said:
nice, a soft tip that holds its shape and doesnt miscue is exactly what i want lol. how long you had that horo on there now
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Just under 2 weeks , which I know is a short period of time and to some they may say that doesn't prove one way or the other for results which is true , however I've had tips fail miserably in a short time and so far so good .
This is also the first layered tip I've shot with that I'm aware of I've played some with a Peachaur jade tip which also felt very similar for more food for thought .
 
Rusty in Montana said:
Just under 2 weeks , which I know is a short period of time and to some they may say that doesn't prove one way or the other for results which is true , however I've had tips fail miserably in a short time and so far so good .
This is also the first layered tip I've shot with that I'm aware of I've played some with a Peachaur jade tip which also felt very similar for more food for thought .
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good point rusty, two weeks is not a lot of time at all lol. i am glad it is holding up so far though, that peachaur one sounds interesting, did it hold its shape as well as this horo or did it start going soft on you
 
KINGSCOURT905 said:
i keep miscuing on draw shots at end pocket, my tip looks flat one week and mushroomed the next lol. i shape it at the hall but i never know if i am doing too much or too little. what do you guys use to keep the shape right and how often do you touch it up
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Find out what a milk dud is and or learn to make them yourself. I do.

Its Elkmaster tip, soaked in milk, I use thick coffee creamer and then burnish the sides with
the milk or coffee creamer.
The secret is to scuff up the tip to remove any shiny surface so the liquid will soak in.

Dry and have the tip installed, play it in and shape a little at a time. It will maintain its shape
for the most part only needing touch ups, but if you break with it, you will flatten it.

Oddly enough tips shaped to about a dime tend to maintain themselves if you are using spin on the shots.
 
Is this Justin386's brother?
skor said:
Good for you but you are generalizing and wrong.
It depends on the power you put on the break, your stroke, the tip used and the shaft itself.
If you soft break and the power that you put into it is not higher than the average power you used while playing and you are probably going to be OK.
BUT....
Some shafts will warp over time when breaking if pushed to the cloth and bend (Mike Sigel style).
Modern ferrules that are soft and light (to reduce deflection) and will crack and break.
The tip will definitely loose shape and will compress and harden.
Carbon fiber shafts that are designed for playing will not survive breaking, the front end is not designed for it and the ferrule/plug will break, the shaft front end walls are thin and will break and split as well.
A decent break cue can be found for $100, don't have to pay hundreds of dollars for one.
A $100 cue is a lot cheaper than replacing or fixing a damage shaft.
If one uses soft to medium layered tips from top brands that goes for $20-$30, breaking with it hard while playing 3-4 hours a week will require changing about every 3 months if you like to keep shape and feel, a $100 cue for breaking will be cheaper in the long run even an $800 cue will be cheaper in the long run.
depending on your stroke, a lighter or heavier cue than your playing cue will generate a better break and more consistent with less effort.
If you are a competing player, you might find your self in a jam and without a playing cue if you use the same cue for breaking unless you carry a few extra shafts that again will cost more than a dedicated break cue, even a solid old school classic maple shaft of a good quality (that won't warp) will cost more than $100.
Heck, for a $100 it could even be a jump-break cue and now you can even jump....
So whatever works for you, is not the general rule and definitely not the rule to follow.
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BS.

I have played pool longer than many people on here have been alive.

I break harder than most people.

I have played hundreds of hours without changing tips.

90% of the time I used Le Pro tips, but I have used numerous brands.

I have shafts that are 50 years old that have broke thousands of racks.
 
The Peachaur jade tip did well , now that a milk dud tip has been mentioned I still have a Thechno dud tip on a cue that held up extremely well for quite a long time and it still works very well when needed .

To help wrap this up it all boils down to stroke and learning to use what you have until it needs to be replaced .
Because everyone has their favorite that fits their needs and gives them their desired results , isn't this fun ? Ha ha
 
R2PQZ said:
My guess is you are breaking with your playing cue. Very hard on the tip. Best to break with a cue dedicated for it. A good hard tip will hold up better. You may also need a better quality tip on your playing cue.
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It might be the tip quality. I've been breaking with my Joss playing cues and have no issue with shape of the tip. Factory installed Triangle brand, IIRC.
 
336Robin said:
Find out what a milk dud is and or learn to make them yourself. I do.

Its Elkmaster tip, soaked in milk, I use thick coffee creamer and then burnish the sides with
the milk or coffee creamer.
The secret is to scuff up the tip to remove any shiny surface so the liquid will soak in.

Dry and have the tip installed, play it in and shape a little at a time. It will maintain its shape
for the most part only needing touch ups, but if you break with it, you will flatten it.

Oddly enough tips shaped to about a dime tend to maintain themselves if you are using spin on the shots.
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ok that milk dud idea is wild lol, never heard of soaking an elkmaster in coffee creamer. do you scuff it first every time or just the once when you make it. might have to try one next time im at end pocket, my tip keeps going flat on draw shots
 
KINGSCOURT905 said:
ok that milk dud idea is wild lol, never heard of soaking an elkmaster in coffee creamer. do you scuff it first every time or just the once when you make it. might have to try one next time im at end pocket, my tip keeps going flat on draw shots
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If done right the elkmaster even hard pressed makes for a great gripping tip which prevents miscues.

From seeing your posts its hard to tell what you're doing.

Sounds like you are new to things. Visit YouTube and learn from there.
 
336Robin said:
If done right the elkmaster even hard pressed makes for a great gripping tip which prevents miscues.

From seeing your posts its hard to tell what you're doing.

Sounds like you are new to things. Visit YouTube and learn from there.
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haha fair enough, i am pretty new to messing with tips like this lol. that hard pressed elkmaster gripping better makes sense though, do you press yours yourself or buy them already done. gonna watch a couple videos tonight and see how the scuffing part works
 
KINGSCOURT905 said:
haha fair enough, i am pretty new to messing with tips like this lol. that hard pressed elkmaster gripping better makes sense though, do you press yours yourself or buy them already done. gonna watch a couple videos tonight and see how the scuffing part works
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The tip comes with something sprayed on it.

I scuff/sand that off with a tip tool before soaking.

that is all that is about.

I did buy a tip press on Amazon.

I soaked the tip for 4 days, take it out dry it off and then....

I wrap the soaked tip in plastic wrap before I press it, so that the tip
comes out of the press better.

I leave it under pressure at least 24 hrs, sometimes 48 hrs.

I paid $16 for the press and bought 10 tips for $10.
The money you save in tips over the years justifies the cost.

The last batch I added a little sugar to the coffee creamer because it was
sugar free and used that to burnish the sides of the tip. I use a piece of leather
to burnish the tip.

Dr. Dave has a video on putting your own tip on. Watch that.

I used a wood file to shape the tip and file it down to close and then I used
a finer grain tip tool to finish the sides and tip curvature.

Plus you get to know exactly how your tip is going to play.

I will post pics of this later.
 
I bought a 10pk of Elkmaster tips off Amazon within the last 2 years for the housecues at home. They are rock hard so I stuck one on my break cue. I shaped it when I put it on and haven't touched it since then and there's no mushrooming whatsoever. I tried one on my playing cue and ended up cutting it off as I found it too hard for my liking
 
KINGSCOURT905 said:
two years without touching it, that is wild to me lol. i am over here messing with mine every session. maybe you are right though, my stroke probably needs the attention more than the tip does
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I scuff it with master's chalk while playing which is pretty abrasive. It's only the edges that matter.
 
Paul Bell said:
View attachment 942178
Buy the Last4Ever nickel/dime shaper combo.

Test the many cue tips available by wearing out tips quicker by shaping your tip before each day of play.

Do that by shaping your tip using Last4Ever until all the chalk has been removed from your tip. Then, rechalk.
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This is probably the best tool ever. I've used many tools in the past 25 years and this solved about three diffirent tools for me. I am using the dime for playing and the quarter for breaking
 
336Robin said:
Find out what a milk dud is and or learn to make them yourself. I do.

Its Elkmaster tip, soaked in milk, I use thick coffee creamer and then burnish the sides with
the milk or coffee creamer.
The secret is to scuff up the tip to remove any shiny surface so the liquid will soak in.

Dry and have the tip installed, play it in and shape a little at a time. It will maintain its shape
for the most part only needing touch ups, but if you break with it, you will flatten it.

Oddly enough tips shaped to about a dime tend to maintain themselves if you are using spin on the shots.
Click to expand...
Milkduds hits harder than the medium that Im using. Also has lots of action into it. I like it other than the maple shaft that I installed it on has a bit of a tiny roll. It would have been a nice shaft for playing but it ended up as a backup break shaft!
 
336Robin said:
The tip comes with something sprayed on it.

I scuff/sand that off with a tip tool before soaking.

that is all that is about.

I did buy a tip press on Amazon.

I soaked the tip for 4 days, take it out dry it off and then....

I wrap the soaked tip in plastic wrap before I press it, so that the tip
comes out of the press better.

I leave it under pressure at least 24 hrs, sometimes 48 hrs.

I paid $16 for the press and bought 10 tips for $10.
The money you save in tips over the years justifies the cost.

The last batch I added a little sugar to the coffee creamer because it was
sugar free and used that to burnish the sides of the tip. I use a piece of leather
to burnish the tip.

Dr. Dave has a video on putting your own tip on. Watch that.

I used a wood file to shape the tip and file it down to close and then I used
a finer grain tip tool to finish the sides and tip curvature.

Plus you get to know exactly how your tip is going to play.

I will post pics of this later.
Click to expand...


ok that is a proper little system robin, the 16 dollar press and 10 tips for 10 bucks makes it sound way cheaper than i thought lol. does the sugar in the creamer change the feel much. post those pics when you get a chance if you can
 
Coos Cues said:
I scuff it with master's chalk while playing which is pretty abrasive. It's only the edges that matter.
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haha fair point john, i never thought about the masters chalk doing the scuffing for you while you play. do you still shape it at all between games or just let the chalk and the edges do their thing
 
KINGSCOURT905 said:
haha fair point john, i never thought about the masters chalk doing the scuffing for you while you play. do you still shape it at all between games or just let the chalk and the edges do their thing
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I never think about it at all unless I miscue which usually happens due to a bad stroke and not often. On the other hand my draw could use some work. 😁
 
KINGSCOURT905 said:
i keep miscuing on draw shots at end pocket, my tip looks flat one week and mushroomed the next lol. i shape it at the hall but i never know if i am doing too much or too little. what do you guys use to keep the shape right and how often do you touch it up
Click to expand...
I suspect that your problem with your tip is from how you chalk. How do you chalk?
 
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