Do any of you use water-based finishes? If so, what brands do recommend?
Thanks,
J.D.
Thanks,
J.D.
finish questions
- Thread starter J.D. Dolan
- Start date
http://www.targetcoatings.com/emtech-9300.html
This was shared to me by local cuemaker Bob Flynn.
He's been using it for 9 months.
Much safer than car finishes. We all ought to quit using car finishes.
And CA's.
This was shared to me by local cuemaker Bob Flynn.
He's been using it for 9 months.
Much safer than car finishes. We all ought to quit using car finishes.
And CA's.
Panel Preparation
Three coats of the EM9330 under test were applied using a 6 ?mil gap application bar on 3" ? 6" pine wood panels. The side of the panels to be varnished was sanded using a 180?grit sand paper. Panels were then placed in oven at slightly above 100? C for 30 ? 45 minutes to remove any water present. Each coat was allowed to dry for 24 hours before the application of the next coat. A 320?grit sand paper was used to sand between coats. After the application of the third coat, panels were allowed to dry for 7 days. At the conclusion of the drying period, panels were placed in the accelerated weathering QUV machine for 500 hours.
it seems like it would take 1-2 weeks to finish a cue the way they advise,instead of 1-2 hours.i would like to try it but i hear it is not as good as Dupont,PPG,etc.Joey,have you seen it?
Three coats of the EM9330 under test were applied using a 6 ?mil gap application bar on 3" ? 6" pine wood panels. The side of the panels to be varnished was sanded using a 180?grit sand paper. Panels were then placed in oven at slightly above 100? C for 30 ? 45 minutes to remove any water present. Each coat was allowed to dry for 24 hours before the application of the next coat. A 320?grit sand paper was used to sand between coats. After the application of the third coat, panels were allowed to dry for 7 days. At the conclusion of the drying period, panels were placed in the accelerated weathering QUV machine for 500 hours.
it seems like it would take 1-2 weeks to finish a cue the way they advise,instead of 1-2 hours.i would like to try it but i hear it is not as good as Dupont,PPG,etc.Joey,have you seen it?
it seems like it would take 1-2 weeks to finish a cue the way they advise,instead of 1-2 hours.i would like to try it but i hear it is not as good as Dupont,PPG,etc.Joey,have you seen it?
Yes. Bob uses it in his cues.
It looks very good.
It's used on Ferraris supposedly.
Car finishes are just nasty. Not good for you and the environment.
Yes. Bob uses it in his cues.
It looks very good.
It's used on Ferraris supposedly.
Car finishes are just nasty. Not good for you and the environment.
water-based finish
Yeah, I'm just getting started and thought I'd start off with water-based finishes, since that seems to be the future. Any other recommended brands besides Target Coatings?
Thanks,
J.D.
JoeyInCali said:
Yeah, I'm just getting started and thought I'd start off with water-based finishes, since that seems to be the future. Any other recommended brands besides Target Coatings?
Thanks,
J.D.
masonh said:
I can hear those Super glue Wizards crying already,
manwon said:
Can't really post my true feeling on CA if would make to many of you mad, Well maybe I can!
I have a couple of what use to be Porpers before I rebuilt them to what they should be, and a couple of South bends, 3 band saws, 3 table saws, jointer, sanders.
manwon said:
Now you see how stories get started, my phone already rang with someone asking if I actually used Super glue for a finish, Do me a favor, next time you want to post something stupid like this. PLEASE TAKE YOUR BRAIN OUT OF YOUR ASS AND AIR IT OUT.
Water Based Finishes
Hello;
Since Joey let the "secret" finish out-of-the-bag I might as well come clean and tell you how it is done, at least my way:
You will need 2 gallons of EM-TECH Polycarbonate Urethane (EM9300) and 1 quart of Ultra Seal WB (3000). Both of these products are water based.
www.targetcoatings.com. Cost is about $100. This will finish about 100 cues.
Next make a 35" dipping container, exactly like one you would use for Nelsonite. No, you cannot use the same one. Make sure your container is clean. Strain 1 gallon of the EM9300 thru a strainer into the tube. Add 1 pint of distilled water (about 10-15% water to EM9300). Make absolutely sure there is no grit floating on the top. Use more 9300 to top tank to within 3" of top. Cover the container when not in use.
Prepare your cue:
Sand down to 400 grit. If you want to POP the grain use my secret oil mixture. 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 tung oil and 1/3 spar varnish. Wipe it on
and rub it in like French polish until you are satisfied. If necessary smooth out with 000 or 0000 steel wool, with the grain. You can skip the secret sauce oil if the cue does not need POPPING, like ebony.
Next, using cheese cloth, apply the Ultra Seal by rubbing it into the cue. Keep applying until you have a level surface. Keep rubbing to fill and keep the surface flat. Usually 2 or 3 rubbings will do the trick. Do the steel wool thing again. Wipe the cue down with denatured alcohol or a watered moist paper towel.
Blow both ends off with compressed air. YOU MUST KEEP ALL DIRT OUT OF YOUR DIPPING TANK.
Screw an adapter on to the joint pin that you can hold on to. A dowel, the same size as the joint, with a cup hook in it is perfect. Make sure it is clean.
Put a plug in your bumper cap. Check your dipping tank to make sure there are no bubbles on the surface. If there is, use a CLEAN stick to break them up. Slowly lower your cue into the tank until it is completely covered. Then slowly lift it out and hang it by the hook.
Wait 30 minutes and look at your cue. It should begin to look like it is encased in glass. Do not touch the cue surface. Wait another 30 minutes and dip again. Watch out for bubbles floating on the top of the tank. Wait 1 hour and dip again. That should do it. If it not perfect, like a glass cylinder,
wait 1 day and sand LIGHTLY with 400 grit on a sponge block-with the grain.
Repeat the process above. Generally speaking, the cue should not even need to be polished. If it does wait at least 3 days, 5 days is better.
The butt of the cue will accumulate more finish than is needed. Let it harden for 3 days, at least and file it flat. EM9300 will not stick to metal unless it has been CA'd or System 3'd first. You can apply 9300 directly over CA or System 3.
Good luck and send me a PM if you need more info.
JOEY, do not tell them about the super, top secret, shaft material.
Bob Flynn
www.denalicues.com
Hello;
Since Joey let the "secret" finish out-of-the-bag I might as well come clean and tell you how it is done, at least my way:
You will need 2 gallons of EM-TECH Polycarbonate Urethane (EM9300) and 1 quart of Ultra Seal WB (3000). Both of these products are water based.
www.targetcoatings.com. Cost is about $100. This will finish about 100 cues.
Next make a 35" dipping container, exactly like one you would use for Nelsonite. No, you cannot use the same one. Make sure your container is clean. Strain 1 gallon of the EM9300 thru a strainer into the tube. Add 1 pint of distilled water (about 10-15% water to EM9300). Make absolutely sure there is no grit floating on the top. Use more 9300 to top tank to within 3" of top. Cover the container when not in use.
Prepare your cue:
Sand down to 400 grit. If you want to POP the grain use my secret oil mixture. 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 tung oil and 1/3 spar varnish. Wipe it on
and rub it in like French polish until you are satisfied. If necessary smooth out with 000 or 0000 steel wool, with the grain. You can skip the secret sauce oil if the cue does not need POPPING, like ebony.
Next, using cheese cloth, apply the Ultra Seal by rubbing it into the cue. Keep applying until you have a level surface. Keep rubbing to fill and keep the surface flat. Usually 2 or 3 rubbings will do the trick. Do the steel wool thing again. Wipe the cue down with denatured alcohol or a watered moist paper towel.
Blow both ends off with compressed air. YOU MUST KEEP ALL DIRT OUT OF YOUR DIPPING TANK.
Screw an adapter on to the joint pin that you can hold on to. A dowel, the same size as the joint, with a cup hook in it is perfect. Make sure it is clean.
Put a plug in your bumper cap. Check your dipping tank to make sure there are no bubbles on the surface. If there is, use a CLEAN stick to break them up. Slowly lower your cue into the tank until it is completely covered. Then slowly lift it out and hang it by the hook.
Wait 30 minutes and look at your cue. It should begin to look like it is encased in glass. Do not touch the cue surface. Wait another 30 minutes and dip again. Watch out for bubbles floating on the top of the tank. Wait 1 hour and dip again. That should do it. If it not perfect, like a glass cylinder,
wait 1 day and sand LIGHTLY with 400 grit on a sponge block-with the grain.
Repeat the process above. Generally speaking, the cue should not even need to be polished. If it does wait at least 3 days, 5 days is better.
The butt of the cue will accumulate more finish than is needed. Let it harden for 3 days, at least and file it flat. EM9300 will not stick to metal unless it has been CA'd or System 3'd first. You can apply 9300 directly over CA or System 3.
Good luck and send me a PM if you need more info.
JOEY, do not tell them about the super, top secret, shaft material.
Bob Flynn
www.denalicues.com
Michael Webb said:
Don't be so sensitive Mike, I was only asking a question!!!!
All you had to do was answer it one way or the other. My question was neither sarcastic or derogatory in any way, unlike your reply. Mike questions are never stupid only answers, and yours certainly qualifies for that title, no disrespect intended, but I think you need to lighten up a little.
I heard you use biscuit for your A-joint.manwon said:Don't be so sensitive Mike, I was only asking a question!!!!
Mike questions are never stupid only answers, and yours certainly qualifies for that title, no disrespect intended, but I think you need to lighten up a little.
Btw, Bob is a very environmentally concious maker so he does not mind sharing his finish secret.
We're all gonna die and kill everyone around use with ppg car finish if we keep using them.
JoeyInCali said:
Way to go Joey..........may as well just just puke your guts out for us and let every one in on the secret shaft sauce also.
Cutting down the rain forest isn't doing us any good either but is that stopping us from using those woods in cues?........I didn't think so.
JoeyInCali said:
Your joking........ right?
<~~~if this was all I had to worry about killing me I'd feel like the healthiest man alive.........
dbl post...
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Dave, do you have any idea how many people spray car finish in the open?BarenbruggeCues said:
In their garage? In their basement?
CA glue?
How many breathe thru a breathing apparatus while spraying?
The finish Bob is using is not a secret he wants to keep. He was just joking.
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JoeyInCali said:I heard you use biscuit for your A-joint.
Btw, Bob is a very environmentally concious maker so he does not mind sharing his finish secret.
We're all gonna die and kill everyone around use with ppg car finish if we keep using them.
Joey said:I heard you use biscuit for your A-joint.
---- Duh What!!! However, while we are on the subject I heard you use Balute as a stain on cues and as a conditioner for your leather wraps
!!!!!!
You mean Balut. Yumyum!manwon said:Joey said:I heard you use biscuit for your A-joint.
However, while we are on the subject I heard you use Balute as a stain on cues and as a conditioner for your leather wraps