Search results

If it's dead level right now after two years, I wouldn't mess with it. If it becomes a problem, then address the problem. A buddy of mine got one brand new in the box. We set it up and he called me two weeks later telling me everything rolled into the middle of the table toward the side...

On most American Heritage tables I've seen (among many other brands, to be fair), the more noticeable warp will be in the middle of the plying surface where the frame is not supported by a leg. A weak frame will sag in the middle under the weight.

I posted about this exact topic not too long ago. https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=918355381554051&id=107150426007888

Good luck! I don't know what alternative slate leveling method they are referring to, but ANY table of any build that I know of should have the frame leveled to the floor before the slate is fine tuned to the frame. The problem with the American Heritage tables is that slate liner sticks out...

Where are you located?

I also have a couple sets sitting around. I think I have some 7' and some 9' 860HR

Not to be a smartass, but, have you tried Simonis? 1-800-SIMONIS :grin:

I agree with Pat. There are things you can do to help prevent the slates from popping on an American Heritage, but by the time you put money into modifying the rails, I think your money would be better spent on a better table with less structural flaws.

In 15 years working on tables, I've actually seen ONE 2-piece slate table. It was pretty obviously a 1-piece that had been cut to get it into the basement.

Hey hey! Yeah I'm still here, although I don't peek in as often as I used to. The HR supposedly plays in between 860 and 760, and I hear the blue plays a bit faster than the green since green is a heavier pigment. I have yet to have the opportunity to play on one of each side by side in the same...

That's what I was thinking at first when I watched the straight up and back video. I'm talking more about in the 9 rail attempt when the foot rail is the second rail, the cue ball sounds like it hops off that rail.

Is it just me, or does the cue hop off that foot rail every time a ball is hit firm into it?

Are you still interested in a set of the new, old stock Super Speed cushions?

I've used the same method on two broken pieces on one table. It was my customer's grandfather's table passed down and she'd had two companies tell her it couldn't be done. It's a great feeling to see tears of joy when you accomplish something that other "professionals" say isn't possible.

Feel, sound, and play. Feel: Most (but not all) rubber will turn hard. You won't be able to compress it as easily by hand. Sometimes when they start to go bad, you can find dead spots in some places that feel stiffer than others. Some other rubber will start to soften and deform at the nose...

You guys care if I join the party? ;-) I can definitely help you out. PM me with what part of town you're in and I'll reply with a quote to level and cover your table. Thanks!

Ideally, the table will be level enough to roll balls on it and see if both sides roll into the middle.

No offense, but if you're this deep into a 3 year old thread, I'd venture a guess you're in for more than a half hour. ;-)

What's the difference between this and Tour Edition?

Ok, guys, help me out here... In my area, this seems to be a Brunswick thing. I don't really see it on other brands. Have any of you attended a Brunswick training that discusses the use of plaster to fill in every hole in the slate? Can anyone explain why you would want to fill in all of the...