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After all the 'I did this first' harumphing, I discovered an interesting picture in the First Edition of The Blue Book of Pool Cues. According to the BB, Viking made these same rings back in 1996 at the very latest (the copyright date of the book).

I have doodled. What fond memories I have of doodles. As for selling cues, do you really have to sell them to be a cue maker? Can't I just keep them all?

My question is: how many cuemakers have come up with an idea and/or built a cue and then discovered someone had already made it?

I don't know your background. You may want to look at 'bottom up' machining and 'top down' machining and choose the direction of travel you want to do your cutting in accordingly. For metals, bottom up is usually best. For wood, top down is usually better, especially for irregular grain.

Regardless of how heavy your cue is, YOU are still the one doing the work. I play best with a lighter cue, but Mizerak played with a 21oz.

I had that happen on the very last pass. Unfortunately, there was no saving it. I had the wood mounted in a collet and it migrated out. The router cut about 3/8" into it in a split second. The whole butt sleeve had to be replaced. The original was some beautiful walnut burl.

Don't use a drill bit for your pilot. Use your boring bar to make a hole that your coring bit fits into snuggly. Your bit will be centered and will follow that straight down the middle. If you are step drilling from size to size, you should consider using your boring bar to center each starter hole.

Love that ring work.

Your mind is obviously less warped than mine.

I ordered some parts a couple of days ago. They showed up the next day.

Best of luck!

Yeah, he self promotes, but have you actually LOOKED at the stuff he creates? His guidance has helped me a great deal.

You might be a cuemaker if you need a device to get your tip centered. (Gosh, I may need to sell my lathe after all!)

Increasing the weight of the cue in any manner will increase its inertia. Personally, I like the cue to have as small a bolt as possible in the butt. I like the weight to be spread out as much as possible.

Originally, Ray's cues used NO metal, only wood, at the A joint. It was one of his bragging points. I have one of his 4 point cues purchased new in Sep '91. I've X-rayed the cue and it does NOT have any metal at the A joint. When I visited him around '98 he told me he started using his...

Schulers don't utilize a weight bolt. They have a weight system that uses washers and O-rings under the bumper. The O-rings are compressed by the screw that holds the bumper in place.

Look up Noel Mendoza. He's on facebook. He worked with Schuler. I'm not sure if the Trims are still making cues.

It's some tough stuff and I've heard it is some of the best firewood, even without having been used for a cue beforehand.

And there isn't much that's as pretty as crotch cut walnut. Walnut is also one of the most stable woods.

Anybody ever heard of white oak?