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You can't lump "Pro's" into a single entity. They are individual players as are the rest of the pool community. However, I do have one A player that has me trim down new tip installs to about half the original height.

I believe Lee passed away this past year. May he Rest In Peace

As others have stated, I have found that it's a combination of feeds, spindle rate, and cutter speed. I run my lathe up around 600 rpm as opposed to your 140-150. Something else for you to try. HTH Gary

Jayman, I connect just fine without using a VPN, It must be something else. Gary

It is true that Grizzly makes good equipment, this lathe isn't suitable for cue making. The distance between centers is 22", but more like 18"-19" max after you add a drive center to the headstock and live center to the tailstock. So you can't hold a shaft nor butt between centers. You can't...

Todd is one of the good guys in the cue machinery business. I hope someone picks up the business, I'd hate to see his large bore headstocks, for one, go into the history books. But, Todd, I hope your health probems can be resolved and that we hear from you once in a while. Best Wishes! Gary

Black Tomahawk works great if your Delrin doesn't.

The challenge with using antler material for joints and butt caps is finding pieces with a more solid center. They tend to be soft and pithy on the inside.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Dennis Searing.

My experience with Kamikaze's is the same. Installed 2, they cut easily, and customer liked them. YMMV Gary

There is a possibiltiy that the bees wax will soak into the wood over time and that weight bolt might begin to rattle. But you say it's tight now, so this may not be a problem.. If it's too tight, and you crank it on in using the bees wax, you could crack that butt. I would bore out the hole...

Well, a detail that no one has mentioned is this: Because the whole cue is tapered, once you cut it into 2 pieces, the diameters of the front and back (or top and bottom if you prefer) will no longer mate up. Inserting a collar, or collars, kind of defeats the whole "Sneaky Pete" concept of...

I've been using Clean Armor for a couple of months. It may seem expensive, but it only takes an ounce or two to finish an entire cue. In my experience, it brushes on thinner and smoother than SolarEZ and flows out better, hence there is less sanding. I have been using SolarEZ for over 5 years...

Well, not what you wanted to hear, but not many cases (if any) are going to accomodate a 34 inch shaft

I used to be not afraid of a pin change. But I did one on a cue that turned out to be plastic for the first 2-3 inches behind the joint. Melted the front end of the cue and had to rebuild that with Tomahawk before finishing out the pin change. So I'm more careful and observant now. My 2 cents

John, I sent you a PM with a link to some mica powders. (Sent PM since I have been known to harp on people about sharing sources here.) Gary

The motors from Penn State are very popular. Gary

Bob, I sent you a DM. Thanks Gary

Hi Bob, I'd like to buy 2 feet of the Hydex you offered. Thanks Gary Brown

I'm always interested in a better adhesive for CF in particular. It looks like you have to buy an application tip/device which appears to waste as much leftover product as we would use for a ferrule/vault plate or collar installation. Is that the case? Thanks for any information, Gary