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Same here. Wondering if Rob or John started up another screen name just to argue with Glen again?

Sounds good. Kelly...see you in about 3 weeks? ;-)

I'm assuming from your description you're talking about the Diamond Professionals, and I think they are GREAT to work on. In my opinion, they are the best designed tables I've seen. GC1 blinds are also a royal pain for one guy to put up at times. Hell, some of them are a pain if you've got 3...

I don't think the problem is that the owner isn't willing to pay for it. I think problem is the "mechanic" isn't willing to take the extra time to do the job right. Again, most of the time, it's not a mechanic that's doing the work, it's someone from the vendor. Not all room owners know...

The room it's in doesn't look familiar, but I may be the one that moved it and recalibrated the rails. PM me or call and give me the guy's name that has it now, if you want and I may be able to give you more info.

Pics of the table would help, but from memory, I think that table just takes the regular old plastic bucket drop pockets. You can order them from most retailers, but Ken Hash with ClassicBilliards.net is a great source for parts. Let me know if you need any more helping finding a set.

I think the problem is a lot of times, it's not a mechanic that's recovering the table...it's someone who works for a vendor. The guys in my area don't check them at all. It's frustrating as hell to play on tables with missing spots, mismatched or wrong rails that all play different, coin...

Tightening the rail bolts will help if they are loose. Give the rail a tap with the meat of your hand and see if it makes the same thud sound. If so, it could be movement in the rail or loose hardware, or even a loose blind that you're hearing. A loose rail could also cause the ball to come...

That looks like a Golden West, but they would have a name badge on the head rail. He is probably counting the backing as part of the slate thickness. It's most likely 3/4" slate with a 3/4" wood backing on it.

Typically the number people are referring to is the "mouth" at the tips of the angle between rail and pocket. Sometimes people will refer to the measurement at the "throat" which is in the back of the pocket. In most cases, the throat of the pocket will be narrower than the mouth.

I've got some scrap Tour Blue 860HR I could send you. PM me.

Yup. I think I'm only about 3 hours away. Give me a call or PM me if you're interested and I'll shoot you a price. Thanks.

My advice...don't sell yourself short. If you want something the quality of Simonis, scratch together the coin for Simonis. If you sacrifice quality to save a little money, you probably won't be happy with the results.

There are plenty of options. Championship Tour Edition is also a good fast durable cloth. The options kind of depends on the reason you wouldn't go with Simonis.

There is a version of Championship Tour Edition 3030 marketed for Brunswick. If I remember right, it's called Brunswick Centennial cloth, but it's 3030.

Or some can be positioned so that they put some top spin on the ball coming off the rail so it does come out faster than expected. I've also seen other tables that play pretty much "normal" but the owner was so used to playing on dead Valley rails that good rails seemed to play too fast.

I like Simonis 860HR. I use it a lot of the tables I cover. It's a bit faster than 860 and good and durable.

I suppose I can give away this secret. Aluminum gutters are a slightly heavier material than the counter springs but still plenty pliable. I had a section blow down a couple years ago in a wind storm. I cleaned it up and got out the sheet metal sheers and I'm pretty sure I have a life time...

Those are most likely going to take a K55 profile cushion. I can repair your counter springs. Where are you located?

I've never seen one with hardware like that. I supposed that doesn't mean it's not original, but it looks like they were drilled out for something else. I'm sure there are other guys on here more familiar with the older Playmasters like that who could tell you what the original hardware was...