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The problem is it will drive you crazy trying to get the bubble between the lines or even close. I'm thinking this level is way beyond what slate specs are machined to. After a day or 2 of work you might/maybe get some acceptable/compromised results.

Just speculating here. I'm think slate is superior to marble and granite for one main reason. It has the ability to wick condensation from the cloth, while granite and marble is impervious. Slate under my theory will help keep the cloth drier without heat compared to granite and marble. If...

My 1st cue was an Adams. Sold it because it was 'fancy" IMO. Traded that one in for a Huebler. Traded that one for a Muecci. Still have the Muecci. So wish I still owned the Adams and Huebler. Sold off part of my personal 50 years in this game.

Assuming the table has Never been put in storage for a number of years.

Your Dollars aren't worth the same they were in 2004. My parents bought my brother a VW Bug in 1970? for $1,800. New I think it was a Super Beetle as well.

Thanks Bert. I'm gonna have to read this about 12 more times I think.

It's been argued that the spots wear differently than the rest of the ball. Could this be it??

Can anyone lead me to the rules. I quit reading the USBA version when they say... In 47.2, the player may make a point when both balls are in the cadre but must drive one object ball out before making the second point. How can I drive a ball out of the cadre BEFORE I make the 2nd point...

What I've read is that Poplar is chosen for rails because when staples are pulled, the holes tend to close up. In other words, Poplar can handle more re-coverings. I'm thinking Poplar was chosen when Tacks were used. Maybe its not that important with staples. Do I have it wrong??

I'd also speculate that when you see the washers start to flatten, if that's possible, you've achieved the required clamp load and you're not going to get anymore clamp till that washer is completely flattened. At that point you're in the danger zone. Plus the washer is damaged. Again, I'm...

I used to say, when I'm dead tired. 6or8 hrs I'm usually dead tired.

If my plan was to move the table in a few months or a year, my preference would be water putty. Its real easy to remove. Once in a permanent space, my choice would be bondo. Of course that's just my opinion.

Bondo is probably the best thing but if you've never worked with it, you can get yourself in trouble. Bees Wax is easy to work with. My local room uses this. Water Putty is easy to work with but if your table moves there's a possibility for it to pop out. If the mating surfaces are clean and...

And unintentional spin is only occurs from an inaccurate stroke. No matter what size the tip, the contact patch doesn't change. Much Knowing the relationship/visual of the Tip on the CB is what matters. In the old days there were plenty of Pro players with 14mm tips. They got plenty of...

The top row goes into 50mm slate. The bottom row goes into wood. I know Brunswick offered a choice of 1" and 1-1/2" slate on their old T-Rail design. The slate on my old Brunswick Regal actually measured 1-5/8". Not trying to argue anything. I just supplied the photo that shows a stronger IMO...

I'm not a mechanic but I prefer T-Rail design. Mechanically IMO a rail bolted in this fashion gives the most resilience against the ball pounding a million times. That said, there's Pro's and Con's for both designs. The ideal would be a design that incorporated both vertical and horizontal...

Wow that's disappointing. The room did change hands a couple years ago. Likely the reason it collapsed. Maybe landlord issues. The place had great business.

I'll take a wild guess. If there was 10's of thousands of Goodman tables, it wouldn't be a mystery. We would all know. Search.. Clay Center, Kansas antique Billiards. They will likely know everything there is about your table.