In another thread (ask the cue maker section ) It came out that Renaissance wax is not a natural wax.
It doesn't use carnauba wax it is a synthetic wax and it has a higher melting point and it doesn't contain toluene.
I was worried that Renaissance wax was natural and it contain the very harmful chemical toluene which it doesn't .
Any way it seems Renaissance wax is one of the best waxes I have tested at this time.........
And it is safe or as safe as any of the other waxes,
Is this the same stuff you are talking about?
In another thread (ask the cue maker section ) It came out that Renaissance wax is not a natural wax.
It doesn't use carnauba wax it is a synthetic wax and it has a higher melting point and it doesn't contain toluene.
I was worried that Renaissance wax was natural and it contain the very harmful chemical toluene which it doesn't .
Any way it seems Renaissance wax is one of the best waxes I have tested at this time.........
And it is safe or as safe as any of the other waxes,
Maybe you put too much on your cue. As far as build up goes, you don't put
more of it on every time you play, it's a one time thing or very infrequent.
If museums use it on rare paintings it ain't gonna hurt your cue.
Thanks for your reply. Absolutely, I do not applied with it every use and I feel I put a very small amount on the shaft. The product is amazing, just want to make sure I'm not going to regret long term.
I am using Lighter fluid and renaissance wax on the new shafts that I am making now.
.
Lighter fluid to thin the wax, or to prep the shaft prior to use?
On my new shafts I am using lighter fluid and waxing over the top of the lighter fluid and getting great results ...
And if you ever need to hunt down Frankenstein they would make great torches
Thanks for the info MM!
On my new shafts I am using lighter fluid and waxing over the top of the lighter fluid and getting great results ...
I'm no expert but can attest the carnauba based cue waxes are the best way to maintain shafts. I apply it perhaps every 15 hours of play. Cue feels like new every time.
To lightly clean the shaft I use a isopropyl alcohol pad which removes chalk dust and hand oils without raising wood grain.
For more intense occasional cleaning I use an Atlas product with silica abrasive, similar to soft scrub. Then burnish, reseal wood , very light sand with 2000 grit to knock down sealer and wax. This is the best way to maintain shafts without chalk staining or loss of diameter.
I tested the lighter fluid out on a old beater shaft , I thought for sure that it would smell like petroleum ,
It doesn't the Lighter fluid evaporates but seals the shaft .
Lighter fluid has allot of paraffin wax in it .
So I tried it on a one of my playing shafts and liked it ,
Now all the new shafts that come out of my shop will have the lighter fluid / synthetic wax.
I also clean a wax the shafts when I do a tip installation so I ask the customers if he wants his shaft to feel like one of my shafts.
So far everyone has said yes and I haven't had one complain .:thumbup:
Which makes me very happy.
To be honest all of my customers have been impressed with the results .
And I have customers coming just to get their shafts cleaned and waxed now .
At our last top gun I set a cue repair booth and was swamped cleaning shafts and doing tips.
I also took in a few future orders for cues, shafts and Pocket chalkers .
This thread has been allot of fun and some really good info has been shared .
I have had some silent help through all of this ,
Cue makers and cue collectors have been PM ing me and giving me advice
So to every who has contributed to this thread I say thank you....