Installing radial pin

captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
Hey guys... When you install the pin using epoxy, do you coat it and screw it in then leave it to set? Or do you screw it in and then run the tail stock drill chuck up on it to hold it straight? I installed a radial pin following these steps. Center drill to 5/16, drill to .312 3.00 deep, tap with radial tap to 2.75", bore .372" 1.350" deep. Epoxy pin 2.2"...

I installed pin with no glue and pin was dead nuts... Removed, epoxied, reinstalled. Was still straight.... After it set pin is not exactly straight... Slightly off.... Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
 
P

Paul Dayton

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've been using them since they came out and I always run the tail stock up while the glue sets. I don't know if I need to do it or not and I don't care. Tying the lathe up for 5 minutes is cheap insurance.
 
captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
Paul Dayton said:
I've been using them since they came out and I always run the tail stock up while the glue sets. I don't know if I need to do it or not and I don't care. Tying the lathe up for 5 minutes is cheap insurance.
Click to expand...

Thanks.. This idea crossed my mind after the fact..... Do you snug the drill chuck on it?
 
P

Paul Dayton

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What I mean is to run a live center into the dimple, cavity, hole, at the end of the screw. You don't grab the screw.
 
captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
Paul Dayton said:
What I mean is to run a live center into the dimple, cavity, hole, at the end of the screw. You don't grab the screw.
Click to expand...

Gotcha...... Lathe on turning slow or off? Another question, do you have better luck with a certain kind of pin? G-10, Stainless, aluminum, brass, etc
 
tsp&b

tsp&b

Well-known member
Silver Member
I would make a couple of suggestions. First double check and make sure that your tailstock is centered with the headstock. Next with the lathe turned OFF, I prefer to use a dead center in the tailstock to secure the end of the pin in position. I hope this helps.
 
whammo57

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
Just a comment............ never bottom the screw in the hole... it will always cock to one side.... bottom it and then back it out 1/2 turn..............

Kim
 
Mcues

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Pin installment.

Running the tailstock against the pin while drying is always a good idea. Tight tolerances is even more important. :)

Mario
 
captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
Thanks for the replies and pm’s. I really appreciate it. The pin was a snug fit but I used Devcon 5 minute. Will remove this one and go again with a longer setting time. This was a G-10 pin
 
JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
captainjko said:
Thanks for the replies and pm’s. I really appreciate it. The pin was a snug fit but I used Devcon 5 minute. Will remove this one and go again with a longer setting time. This was a G-10 pin
Click to expand...

If you are not in a hurry, use 24 hr epoxy.
Use little epoxy with no hardener ( just to wet the screw ) in "dry" fitting the screw as lubricant.
If it's a G-10, use a 1/4 end mill and mill a glue channel ( parallel to the ways ) .
Make a jig to protect the threads while you mill a glue channel. It's just a joint protector you band saw a slit so it can grab the screw .

It also just takes a minute to make a maple dowel to fill the gap at the bottom.
Do not leave that .800" hole at the bottom. This is what I don't really get. Why leave that long of a hole? Make .700" long by .300" plug and push it down the bottom. Now you have less epoxy there and less risk of developing a gap and buzz. And you still have a .100" clearance for the bottom of the screw.

Why use a 5-minute epoxy on a G-10 screw? You're not going to blow torch it anyway in case it's off.
And why worry about the speed ? You're gonna turn off the lights and go to sleep anyway. Install the screw towards end of the night.
 
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captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
JoeyInCali said:
If you are not in a hurry, use 24 hr epoxy.
Use little epoxy with no hardener ( just to wet the screw ) in "dry" fitting the screw as lubricant.
If it's a G-10, use a 1/4 end mill and mill a glue channel ( parallel to the ways ) .
Make a jig to protect the threads while you mill a glue channel. It's just a joint protector you band saw a slit so it can grab the screw .

It also just takes a minute to make a maple dowel to fill the gap at the bottom.
Do not leave that .800" hole at the bottom. This is what I don't really get. Why leave that long of a hole? Make .700" long by .300" plug and push it down the bottom. Now you have less epoxy there and less risk of developing a gap and buzz. And you still have a .100" clearance for the bottom of the screw.

Why use a 5-minute epoxy on a G-10 screw? You're not going to blow torch it anyway in case it's off.
And why worry about the speed ? You're gonna turn off the lights and go to sleep anyway. Install the screw towards end of the night.
Click to expand...

I wondered the same thing but just followed the instructions from : https://www.cuestik.com/UserFiles/File/28896_Rev._C_-_Radial_Pin_Installation.pdf
I will make a dowel and not bore as deep next time.... What is a good glue or epoxy to use for installing G10 pins?
 
JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
captainjko said:
I wondered the same thing but just followed the instructions from : https://www.cuestik.com/UserFiles/File/28896_Rev._C_-_Radial_Pin_Installation.pdf
I will make a dowel and not bore as deep next time.... What is a good glue or epoxy to use for installing G10 pins?
Click to expand...

You have to drill that deep to clear the tap's pilot. Caliper the OD of the tap's thread. The first 5 threads of the tap is not full size .

Just make sure to plug the long clearance. Filling that clearance with just epoxy just does not make sense. I've seen one where only the screw has epoxy and not the hole. The screw buzzed.

Any 24-hr epoxy with silica powder is fine for G-10.
Heck, you can even use finish cure epoxy for G-10.
It will never give out before the G-10 breaks if done right.
Grind a flat angle at the bottom of the screw so it has to break the epoxy before it spins . That will never happen if the epoxy is there .
 
captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
JoeyInCali said:
You have to drill that deep to clear the tap's pilot. Caliper the OD of the tap's thread. The first 5 threads of the tap is not full size .

Just make sure to plug the long clearance. Filling that clearance with just epoxy just does not make sense. I've seen one where only the screw has epoxy and not the hole. The screw buzzed.

Any 24-hr epoxy with silica powder is fine for G-10.
Heck, you can even use finish cure epoxy for G-10.
It will never give out before the G-10 breaks if done right.
Grind a flat angle at the bottom of the screw so it has to break the epoxy before it spins . That will never happen if the epoxy is there .
Click to expand...

Thanks Joey... Pretty much same technique if using a stainless, brass, or aluminum pin?
 
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Option 5.
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captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
After checking tailstock it is slightly higher than headstock. Maybe a few thousands. I put a dead center in ech and closed on a flat thin piece. It cocked the top towards headstock. This is a Porper B. Is there an adjustment for this?
 
K

KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
Option 6

Turn the bottom of the pin to the dimensions of the pilot on the tap.
The pin fills the hole. No little wooden plugs needed.
 
JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
KJ Cues said:
Turn the bottom of the pin to the dimensions of the pilot on the tap.
The pin fills the hole. No little wooden plugs needed.
Click to expand...

Then he'll have no threads down there.
He's using a barreled joint screw.


One reason I go with 3/8 11 now. No need to tap.
Just live thread.
 
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