Sanding before sealer/finish?

POOLGODBEWITHME

Tom "B" player
Silver Member
Hey guy's,
I'm in the process of building my first cue (a break cue) to see if this is a hobby I should throw a crap load of money at:D. I have the butt all assembled and final tapered, and I'm ready to sand out the small cutter marks and imperfections before sealer and finish. My question is what grit do most of you stop at before putting the sealer on? I was going to start at 150-220 and work my way up, but after 400-600 I would guess that the paper will insta-load-up. Any info is appreciated. I am enjoying this build so far, so I'm guessing I've got tens of thousands of dollars to spend on another hobby. The wife will be so impressed:thumbup2:. I will put photos in the cue gallery once I know it's not a fire poker.
Tom
 

rhncue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I use 180 and then 220. You want the cue smooth and flat but there needs to be some texture for the finish to grab and hold onto.

Dick
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
Before sealer just use 220. If you have dark and light wood or black pieces, blow 100psi air on it as you are sanding. If you don't, you will wipe the dark into the light wood and make a mess. Also a fine grit such as 400 or 600 will do it any way because the dust is so fine. Just use 220.

Always slide the sand paper from the light wood into the black to avoid carrying the dark color into the lighter wood.

Kim
 

POOLGODBEWITHME

Tom "B" player
Silver Member
Thanks

Thanks for the advise from everyone. All very valuable. I don't have much finish woodworking experience other than woodshop in high school, and I may have been self medicating back then. I'm doing this build at work in my spare time to see if I want to start buying equipment for home. I was looking for an excuse to buy a lathe and a mill anyway. I just have to figure out a way to convince my wife that we would be money ahead to build a machine shop in my barn. Thanks again for the help
Tom
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
hello , what is your choice of sealer before clearcoat?

I use epoxy and I rub it in hard with my fingers while the cue is spinning. You must seal the wood grain or you might get bubbles in the finish as the wood gasses out.

Sand it smooth and put on the clear coat.

Kim
 

POOLGODBEWITHME

Tom "B" player
Silver Member
hello , what is your choice of sealer before clearcoat?



This is what I bought to try http://m.woodcraft.com/Product/2004168/8801/Deft-Lacquer-Sanding-Sealer-Quart.aspx, I put some on a test piece of PH and it seams to soak in pretty good with a thick first coat and then couple coats after that. I haven't sanded it out and cleared over the test piece yet, but I will before I tackle the cue. The clearcoat I'm using is the same brand as the sealer. It's what the guy at woodcraft recommended. I will report back if this stuff sucks or not.
Tom
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
This is what I bought to try http://m.woodcraft.com/Product/2004168/8801/Deft-Lacquer-Sanding-Sealer-Quart.aspx, I put some on a test piece of PH and it seams to soak in pretty good with a thick first coat and then couple coats after that. I haven't sanded it out and cleared over the test piece yet, but I will before I tackle the cue. The clearcoat I'm using is the same brand as the sealer. It's what the guy at woodcraft recommended. I will report back if this stuff sucks or not.
Tom

I use that same sealer but only on shafts....

Remember, it's lacquer based and it dries fast in one coat but several coats can take several days...

Kim.
 

SpiderWeb

iisgone@yahoo.com
Silver Member
Sanding

You could start with 120 grit depending on how much sanding needs to be done. Work you way up and stop at 220 or 320 or 400 and see what you like best as it will change over time. When you move up in grit its only purpose is to sand out the scratches of the previous grit. You want the roughest paper to do most of the work and it will be easier for you.
 
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