I bought a used Hightower Deluxe. I'm just starting to try and turn down a couple of old shafts to practice on and check out what kind of tapper the bar is set at. The thing is I'm getting some pretty nasty chatter marks in the shafts I've tried taking smaller cuts but it doesn't seem to make any difference. At first I thought the old maple flooring was to limber or had to much flex so I switched to and old flat laminate I had laying around it did the same to it. Any thought guys? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Looking for advice.
- Thread starter JUSTABANGER 2
- Start date
What kind of router and blade do you have ?
Use and indicator to determine the taper before even making cuts.
Buy a 30" long rod to indicate.
For $140, I'd chuck that screaming Porter Cable for Dewalt.
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/dewalt-dwp611-porter-cable-450-trim-routers-convert-plunge-bases/
Use and indicator to determine the taper before even making cuts.
Buy a 30" long rod to indicate.
For $140, I'd chuck that screaming Porter Cable for Dewalt.
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/dewalt-dwp611-porter-cable-450-trim-routers-convert-plunge-bases/
Last edited:
Are you using a Router or a cutting tool? Live turning is the way to go on shafts and handles. Contact Chris, he has a few videos that he sells and a book. You will learn how to do most operations from this materials. Also he is a great guy who would be willing to help even if you did not purchase the machine from him.
Jim.
Last edited:
I'm running the lathe at the slowest speed. And the feed at the slowest speed also.
I shall assume you are using a laminate trimmer. Here are some things I came up with, most of which I learned by myself...
1. Stabilize the lathe. If it isn't sitting flat and secure, you will have problems. Make sure everything is running smooth
2. Tension is very important. This is something you will figure out for yourself. Also, your drive centers need to be in good order. Neither should wobble.
3. Your centering holes should be deep enough to securely hold the wood.
4. Taking deep cuts smokes the bearings in short order....even if they are good. The bearings are small. Bad bearings can cause runout. If you have runout, then at least one of your cutters aren't cutting. Rotate the arbor by hand and see if the blades are an equal distance apart. Runout won't cause you a LOT of problems until you get into final cutting..
I gotta go fish....srrry, or I'd try and be more help....
1. Stabilize the lathe. If it isn't sitting flat and secure, you will have problems. Make sure everything is running smooth
2. Tension is very important. This is something you will figure out for yourself. Also, your drive centers need to be in good order. Neither should wobble.
3. Your centering holes should be deep enough to securely hold the wood.
4. Taking deep cuts smokes the bearings in short order....even if they are good. The bearings are small. Bad bearings can cause runout. If you have runout, then at least one of your cutters aren't cutting. Rotate the arbor by hand and see if the blades are an equal distance apart. Runout won't cause you a LOT of problems until you get into final cutting..
I gotta go fish....srrry, or I'd try and be more help....
Also I dont know the diameter of the shafts ? If it is a smaller diameter the cutting action can cause it to vibrate along with tail stock tention. If the cutter/router bit isnt sharp that will do it too.
things to try
make sure the bed is clean, make sure the feed screw is clean, put a lite coat of oil on the bed, slide the tailstock back and forth a few times, i think its best to use a 6 wing cutter in the router, slow turning speed and try different feed speeds.speeds, make sure the tension is not too tight making the shaft bow, don't start trying to recut an old shaft, start with a bigger piece of wood until you get the feel of how the machine operates
make sure the bed is clean, make sure the feed screw is clean, put a lite coat of oil on the bed, slide the tailstock back and forth a few times, i think its best to use a 6 wing cutter in the router, slow turning speed and try different feed speeds.speeds, make sure the tension is not too tight making the shaft bow, don't start trying to recut an old shaft, start with a bigger piece of wood until you get the feel of how the machine operates
First thing is first.
Stick a 1/4 drill blank on that router and indicate it.
If it has a nasty runout, it needs to be fixed first .
Those PC laminate trimmers have cheap bearings.
Stick a 1/4 drill blank on that router and indicate it.
If it has a nasty runout, it needs to be fixed first .
Those PC laminate trimmers have cheap bearings.
Things I would look at are :
-slowing down your speed of the lathe but INCREASING your feed
-decreasing your depth of cut
-minimize tool contact with material, lower your tool height so that the top edge of the cutter is on the center line.
- try both conventional cutting and climb cutting, sometimes one way will give better results.(direction of feed)
-slowing down your speed of the lathe but INCREASING your feed
-decreasing your depth of cut
-minimize tool contact with material, lower your tool height so that the top edge of the cutter is on the center line.
- try both conventional cutting and climb cutting, sometimes one way will give better results.(direction of feed)
I find that the feed rate needs to be higher that what you are running for less chatter. Too slow and I don't get as smooth a cut. Whether it is a tension and release of the carriage, something to do with chip loading or some type of harmonic set up between the router bit and shaft, I don't know.
Start by running the feed rate at least 1/2 speed. A lot depends on the number of wings on the cutter. A 6 wing cutter should have a faster feed rate than a 2 wing cutter, at least that is my experience. I run my 2 wing cutter at half feed rate or there abouts and my 6 wing cutter at 3/4 feed. No router bit will do worth a diddly if it starts to become dull. I adjust the center of my 6 wing cutter to be on centerline with the headstock-tailstock.
FWIW,
Alan
Phelps Custom Cues
Start by running the feed rate at least 1/2 speed. A lot depends on the number of wings on the cutter. A 6 wing cutter should have a faster feed rate than a 2 wing cutter, at least that is my experience. I run my 2 wing cutter at half feed rate or there abouts and my 6 wing cutter at 3/4 feed. No router bit will do worth a diddly if it starts to become dull. I adjust the center of my 6 wing cutter to be on centerline with the headstock-tailstock.
FWIW,
Alan
Phelps Custom Cues
how do u have router set up ?vertical?
Vertical .
looks like most everything has been been mentioned, but some things that I do---. I use a sacrificial piece to tune the lathe in before running a bunch of shafts out, I cut towards the headstock, I find the right combination of feed speed, verses spindle speed, I take the ring off of the spur drive, and make sure It's running as close to dead nuts as possible before putting a shaft in the lathe. and I try to obtain just the right amount tailstock pressure, not so little that the center won't actually drive the shaft, but at the same time not so much that It bends the shaft. I also thoroughly clean & lube the lathe (including the crosslide) before running shafts to make sure everything is running as smoothly as possible.
Most of the time that issue can be resolved by finding the right combination of speeds.
Most of the time that issue can be resolved by finding the right combination of speeds.
There is way to many variables to figure out at first. If you answer all the questions asked then progress can be made easier. I have 2 designated taper machines and both have been fine tuned differently because both are set up differently. Any way you could take a video on your setup? I bet we all could get you out of your rut in no time if you can.