Precision Machine Level .0002" / 10"

Dartman

Well-known member
Silver Member
My 2 cents

A________________B________________C

I think RKC is trying to illustrate that
Point A to Point C can show dead 0 bubble however
Point A to Point B or
Point B to Point C may be off.
You would see this with the smaller level and read it
as higns and lows in the slate surface itself (not dead flat).
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
jack146 said:
Glen, I think you are still addressing this from the point of view of someone building a table. I am talking about the 8 foot Diamond table that Andy installed in the bar in Brooklyn in April.

That slate was supposedly checked and installed by the people at Diamond and judging by playing the table it was properly ground to a level surface and is properly supported to prevent the valleys you mention. Assuming the slate surface was level when installed and properly supported, the slate itself should be just fine. I can check the table to make sure it is level overall and use the leg adjusters to make corrections if it isn't.

Even if I did detect that either side to side or end to end there was a low point in the slate center, I wouldn't be able to fix that, I would have to call Brian and report there was a defect in the table.

BTW, my mention of the dollar bill had nothing to do with leveling the table, Andy just did that to show just how accurate the level itself was. After he had the table level, he put the bill on the table and placed the end of the level on the bill. The level then showed the table was off level and returned to a level reading when he slid the bill out from under the level.

BTW2, what is the size of the head on the leg adjuster bolts?
I'm sure Andy did a good job of setting up and leveling your table. As far as frame leveling, sometimes there needs to be a follow up leveling after the table has settled in for a period of time. That can be done by using a 3/4" wrench to adjust the leg levelers on the feet of the table.

Glen
 

iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
No one has really addressed the original poster and his specific level in question.

I'm not a table mechanic, but I have worked as a machinist for a short stretch. There are two classes of machinist levels in the Starrett catalog.

The Master Precision Level, No. 199 has a graduation of .0005 inch per foot.

The Machinists' Level, No 98 has a graduation of .005 inch per foot.


The 199 is used for the most precision possible in setting up machine tools, such as lathes and mills. If you tried to use this level for a pooltable, you might end up chasing your tail.

I believe most pool table mechanics use the 98 series level. They can verify that for you.

A little more about the model numbers, as I have the Starrett catalog in front of me right now. No 199 is a 15" long level, and only comes in that one length.

No. 98 comes in 4", 6", 8", 12", and 18" lengths. The model number changes to 98-4 for a 4", 98-6 for a 6", etc.

So do a search on ebay for Starrett 98-8 if you want the 8" level.

The import level in your link is similar to the Starrett 199. If you choose to go the import route, you want one that is similar to the Starrett 98 series.

I personally have an import No. 199, like shown in your link. The quality actually looks quite nice to me. I used it to help set up my machine tools, and didn't feel the justification to go the Starrett route.

As a summary, the 2 graduation ranges for these levels are .0005" per foot, and .005" per foot. Make sure you read the specifications of the auction so you get the right one for your needs.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
iusedtoberich said:
No one has really addressed the original poster and his specific level in question.

I'm not a table mechanic, but I have worked as a machinist for a short stretch. There are two classes of machinist levels in the Starrett catalog.

The Master Precision Level, No. 199 has a graduation of .0005 inch per foot.

The Machinists' Level, No 98 has a graduation of .005 inch per foot.


The 199 is used for the most precision possible in setting up machine tools, such as lathes and mills. If you tried to use this level for a pooltable, you might end up chasing your tail.

I believe most pool table mechanics use the 98 series level. They can verify that for you.

A little more about the model numbers, as I have the Starrett catalog in front of me right now. No 199 is a 15" long level, and only comes in that one length.

No. 98 comes in 4", 6", 8", 12", and 18" lengths. The model number changes to 98-4 for a 4", 98-6 for a 6", etc.

So do a search on ebay for Starrett 98-8 if you want the 8" level.

The import level in your link is similar to the Starrett 199. If you choose to go the import route, you want one that is similar to the Starrett 98 series.

I personally have an import No. 199, like shown in your link. The quality actually looks quite nice to me. I used it to help set up my machine tools, and didn't feel the justification to go the Starrett route.

As a summary, the 2 graduation ranges for these levels are .0005" per foot, and .005" per foot. Make sure you read the specifications of the auction so you get the right one for your needs.
You're 100% right. To precise of a level can't be used to level pool tables, because you can't even grind slate that flat, not to mention the fact that you're working with wood for the most part for the frame of the table. That's why carpenters DON'T use machinist levels when working with wood!

Glen
 

jack146

Registered
Dartman said:
My 2 cents

A________________B________________C

I think RKC is trying to illustrate that
Point A to Point C can show dead 0 bubble however
Point A to Point B or
Point B to Point C may be off.
You would see this with the smaller level and read it
as higns and lows in the slate surface itself (not dead flat).

I understood that, but if that situation exists, it is beyond my means to correct that and I would have to have Diamond Pool come in to fix it. To be clear, no such condition exists, and I have total faith in Diamond Billiards.

The 8 foot Diamond Coin-op table I am talking about is amazing and I have Gen to thank for the time he spent on the phone with me giving me so much information about the Diamond Tables.

Before that, the Diamond was just too expensive, but the old adage, "you get what you pay for" was never truer
 

jack146

Registered
realkingcobra said:
I'm sure Andy did a good job of setting up and leveling your table. As far as frame leveling, sometimes there needs to be a follow up leveling after the table has settled in for a period of time.

Glen

You're right Glen and that is why I look for you when I have a question. Not being able to repair a slate that develops a valley myself doesn't mean I shouldn't want to know about it. I ordered the 8 inch.
 
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