Tulipwood Cues

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sluggerknuckles

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hello and thank you in advance for your comments.

While at the SBE, I had Dan Dishaw clean some of my huebler shafts. One of the pros was talking to Dan when he commented on "there is just something about the hit of tulipwood". He said to build a tulipwood cue would run 7-800 dollars becuase it has to be cored.

Can someone please explain this comment.

I have several hueblers and a whisler. I find that I like to wood to wood phenolic joint of the Whisler and the hueblers with plastic joints. I am ready to sell some of the hueblers to raise funds to purchase a custom cue but unfortunately, it is a tough decision not knowing about how different types of how cues' hit.....hence the question on tulipwood......
 
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BLACKHEARTCUES

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Go to my web site blackheartcues.com
Cue # 8 is Tulip & ebony. This is a cue I made for my son 16 years ago. To this day it is straight as an arrow. I have made 7 cues similar to this & none are cored. Coreing is not needed for this wood, in my opinion...JER
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
There is another thread concerning tulipwood recently, and a lot of others have commented about it being very unstable. I, myself only have 2 pieces that I've worked, and I have to say that after 3 years of working them, since they came into my possesion, they have not moved a .004 out of round. The only reason they aren't in a cue right now is that once they got to about 1.100 at the joint, they had some very bad brownish markings on one side of the forearm and only got worse at .900. Other than that, they were both very stable, I still have them, and just can't throw them away quite yet as I like the look of tulipwood, on the non-brownish side.:D
Dave
 
Eric Wynne

Eric Wynne

Banned
Tulip is as stable as most other woods if properly treated . It's dense and heavy and depending on grain doesn't need to be cored . Different strokes for different folks .:cool:;)
 
BHQ

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
Dave38 said:
There is another thread concerning tulipwood recently, and a lot of others have commented about it being very unstable. I, myself only have 2 pieces that I've worked, and I have to say that after 3 years of working them, since they came into my possesion, they have not moved a .004 out of round. The only reason they aren't in a cue right now is that once they got to about 1.100 at the joint, they had some very bad brownish markings on one side of the forearm and only got worse at .900. Other than that, they were both very stable, I still have them, and just can't throw them away quite yet as I like the look of tulipwood, on the non-brownish side.:D
Dave[/QUOTE

dave
i'll be happy to take care of the brownish side problem :thumbup:
the same way i cut a brown streak off the side of ebony:thumbup:
or an ugly sugar streak off the side of maple :thumbup:
etc. etc. etc.
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Mcues

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
sluggerknuckles said:
Hello and thank you in advance for your comments.

While at the SBE, I had Dan Dishaw clean some of my huebler shafts. One of the pros was talking to Dan when he commented on "there is just something about the hit of tulipwood". He said to build a tulipwood cue would run 7-800 dollars becuase it has to be cored.

Can someone please explain this comment.

I have several hueblers and a whisler. I find that I like to wood to wood phenolic joint of the Whisler and the hueblers with plastic joints. I am ready to sell some of the hueblers to raise funds to purchase a custom cue but unfortunately, it is a tough decision not knowing about how different types of how cues' hit.....hence the question on tulipwood......
Click to expand...

I've done a few in Tulipwood without coring because I really like the wood.
 

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JC

JC

Coos Cues
sluggerknuckles said:
Hello and thank you in advance for your comments.

While at the SBE, I had Dan Dishaw clean some of my huebler shafts. One of the pros was talking to Dan when he commented on "there is just something about the hit of tulipwood". He said to build a tulipwood cue would run 7-800 dollars becuase it has to be cored.

Can someone please explain this comment.
Click to expand...

This comment doesn't make sense to me. Something about the hit of a cored wood?

Should hit about like any other wood of similar weight with a same core wood running through it.

JC
 
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