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Shaft cutting problems
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jokers_wild96
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Shaft cutting problems - 05-12-2019, 03:14 PM

I'm having problems cutting a straight dowel on my cuesmith midsize. The dowel is 30" long and just under 1" in diameter. The ends are within .004" which I'm fine with, its the center that's got me confused. It's almost .030" smaller in the middle. I'm applying very minimal pressure on my tail stock, slowest speed on my lathe and 6 on the power feed. The finish of the cut is clean and smooth but can't figure out why it's cutting so small in the middle. Anyone have any thoughts.
  
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JoeyInCali
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05-12-2019, 03:23 PM

Stick a 30" rod in there and indicate it end to end.
I'm thinking your taper bar is off at the middle.


  
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jokers_wild96
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05-12-2019, 03:46 PM

Im not using the bars. Im just trying to cut a straight dowel to fine tune things but I noticed it's cutting weird in the middle. I need this problem addressed before I start cutting shaft tapers or I'm going to make a lot of garbage.
  
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JoeyInCali
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05-12-2019, 03:56 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jokers_wild96 View Post
Im not using the bars. Im just trying to cut a straight dowel to fine tune things but I noticed it's cutting weird in the middle. I need this problem addressed before I start cutting shaft tapers or I'm going to make a lot of garbage.
Bed might be twisted.
Get a machinist level and level it dead nuts.

I'm assuming the cutter does not lift above the centerline going to the middle .

You still need to indicate a 30" rod . If it's .015 off in the middle while the rod is not even spinning, then the bed is off .


  
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shaft cutting
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venison-slayer
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shaft cutting - 05-12-2019, 04:11 PM

turn down the speed on your power feed by half and try it again


Brent Hofman
  
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Kim Bye
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05-12-2019, 05:30 PM

How much are you taking off on each pass?



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jokers_wild96
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05-12-2019, 05:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim Bye View Post
How much are you taking off on each pass?
I've tried .005, .010, .020 and .050 all with the same results.
  
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05-12-2019, 11:39 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jokers_wild96 View Post
I'm having problems cutting a straight dowel on my cuesmith midsize. The dowel is 30" long and just under 1" in diameter. The ends are within .004" which I'm fine with, its the center that's got me confused. It's almost .030" smaller in the middle. I'm applying very minimal pressure on my tail stock, slowest speed on my lathe and 6 on the power feed. The finish of the cut is clean and smooth but can't figure out why it's cutting so small in the middle. Anyone have any thoughts.
First, did you buy from Chris Hightower brand new or did you buy it second hand? If from Chris,this is something to ask him about in a phone call, as he knows these machines better than anyone else. Slower feedrate may be the answer, plus it is possible to have the bed slightly tweaked at the same time, also, how tight are the gibs, and if it was used when you bought it, it may be possible that the bed is worn in that area, not likely, but possible. Roll the carriage by the hand wheel the whole length of the bed, from headstock to tailstock, it should be the same effort the whole way, if not, then the bed maybe worn or the gibs are not adjusted correctly, or, there is debris on the bed/stuck under the carriage.
Hopefully you get it running right and very soon. Happy building.
Dave
  
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05-13-2019, 01:30 AM

Can you post a picture of your setup please?
Then more accurate advice can be given.
What type of cutter are you using etc etc etc.
Neil


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05-13-2019, 06:02 AM

Usually the dowel will be fat in the middle because of tool push off..... small in the middle seems to be mechanical. Lay a straight edge on the lathe bed .... it may be low in the middle..... try the straight edge on the sides of the lathe bed.... it may not be straight.............

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05-13-2019, 11:23 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by whammo57 View Post
Usually the dowel will be fat in the middle because of tool push off..... small in the middle seems to be mechanical. Lay a straight edge on the lathe bed .... it may be low in the middle..... try the straight edge on the sides of the lathe bed.... it may not be straight.............

Kim
Small in the middle can occur if the cutter pulls the workpiece towards it.
That is why a photo showing the set up will avoid conjecture of the actual problem.


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JoeyInCali
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05-13-2019, 11:35 AM

I guess indicating a 30" Thompson rod is too much trouble.


  
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jokers_wild96
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05-13-2019, 07:14 PM

So I still don't know what's causing that problem in the middle. I tried using my other cross slide and cut from the back and got different results, still not a straight cut. Since the piece I was using was scrap wood I used the bars and cut the shaft taper almost to a finish size and it was damn near perfect cutting the shaft. I checked the bed on top and side with a 4ft t square and everything looked straight. I appreciate the suggestions to help try and figure this out.
  
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JoeyInCali
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05-13-2019, 10:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jokers_wild96 View Post
So I still don't know what's causing that problem in the middle. I tried using my other cross slide and cut from the back and got different results, still not a straight cut. Since the piece I was using was scrap wood I used the bars and cut the shaft taper almost to a finish size and it was damn near perfect cutting the shaft. I checked the bed on top and side with a 4ft t square and everything looked straight. I appreciate the suggestions to help try and figure this out.
So, when the cross slide is butted to the taper bar, it's ok.
But, not when it's on the bed in the middle .
So, it's the bed.

A square won't tell you much.


  
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05-14-2019, 03:11 AM

You wont see a 2 thou bend in a lathe bed extrusion, but it will make a 4 thou on diameter change. Getting them to be straight and twist free is the real answer for setting up any lathe bed. Leveling a machine tool is the term used to get it to be as true as it was when made in the factory and working perfectly, before it was packaged and shipped. It does not mean that the spirit level is level everywhere. But if it was, it would also be good.
So there are things you can do, like make things that clamp it to get the twist out of it or to twist it to get it true. You may need center blocks to push it forward or back to get it dead straight. Its a topic in itself setting up the bed correct. Then the head stock needs to be correctly aligned to the newly leveled bed. Lastly the tail stocks need to be centered and so do the steady rests. The fixed ones are what I start with, and then adjust all the adjustable ones.
A taper bar for the most part negates the importance of the leveling of the bed, but it will be different in it's alignment where ever the centre is repositioned to.
Neil


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