1 piece smakewood cue
- Thread starter jov3n
- Start date
Snajewood is pretty pricey & not very stable. I would not attempt it, because it would not stay straight...JER
I would think this would border on "insane" for the reasons mentioned. Only reasonable possibility here might be to radially laminate the snakewood and have it over a full maple or purpleheart core (something very stable). You would be looking at: lot of work + very pricey snakewood = very expensive plain jane.
This reminds me of someone I know who told me he wanted me to make him a solid ivory shaft...from joint to tip. He said he thought it would play great.
For a snakewood cue, one might get close with a segmented snakewood handle, snakewood sleeve, and inlaid snakewood points in the forearm.
Kelly
For a snakewood cue, one might get close with a segmented snakewood handle, snakewood sleeve, and inlaid snakewood points in the forearm.
Kelly
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It would be extremely heavy too
Snakewood
Hi,
I bought an expensive peice of snake wood from Bellforest for half price on a Sunday at Valley Forge 2 years ago and was going to use it for point stock. A friend told me that I should core it with laminated maple and make a forearm out of it.
I did and that was 18 months ago. I don't put my points in until I taper down to .900 at the joint. Well I have taken 4 tapper cuts and it is at .916 and still spins good between centers with no visable cracks.
For all of the reasons that have been mentioned I am very skeptical about this cue and won't sell it until it has been finished and hanging around here for a long time. Watch and see i guess!
Maybe I should have used it for point stock and inlay material. I looks awesome but it may turn out to be problem child. Just to add insult to injury I should make the points out of holly. LOL!
Rick Geschrey
Hi,
I bought an expensive peice of snake wood from Bellforest for half price on a Sunday at Valley Forge 2 years ago and was going to use it for point stock. A friend told me that I should core it with laminated maple and make a forearm out of it.
I did and that was 18 months ago. I don't put my points in until I taper down to .900 at the joint. Well I have taken 4 tapper cuts and it is at .916 and still spins good between centers with no visable cracks.
For all of the reasons that have been mentioned I am very skeptical about this cue and won't sell it until it has been finished and hanging around here for a long time. Watch and see i guess!
Maybe I should have used it for point stock and inlay material. I looks awesome but it may turn out to be problem child. Just to add insult to injury I should make the points out of holly. LOL!
Rick Geschrey
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That is a good testimony. All that has been said about snakewood not withstanding, there was a post or two way way back about snakewood that included pictures of a compound bow made of snakewood. I cannot remember who posted the picture. It made rounds on EPT as well as here I believe. I think I remember reading someone say the bow in question was made from a large piece that had seasoned for 80 years.
Kelly
Finding a 30" piece of Snakewood is your first hurdle. Core drilling with your brand new 32" gun barrel bit is next. You make it past step one and two and you are on your way, lol.
Couldn't it be done in sections (3 x 10"), faced and then all sleeved/glued over the core, then turned?
Long pieces are not the problem, coring and the cost of long pieces might be a problem.
The 3 sections idea from Sean is about the only way you could get there.
Here's one I just finished about two weeks ago. I wouldn't do it again but it came out pretty good. Now that it's done i don't think there will be a problem with it. At least I hope because I have someone making payments on it right now. I have anotherone with no points as well just in case one went bad I had a back up. Thankfully both of them turned out good or I would have been out a lot of money. I did get the snakewood at a pretty good price but still expencive. The shafts for the second one aren't done yet hopefully this week end I'll have time to finish them.
Attachments
Nice looking cue. Is it cored? Is it a one piece butt or is it just a snakewood forearm & butt sleeve?...JER
I'm working on one now that is 2 pieces. It was cut from one piece but the design dictated it be in two pieces......they'll be about 13 and 16 long when done.
One piece core.......it's been one challenge after another and I haven't even started gluing anything yet!
<~~~working with snakewood though.................
One piece core.......it's been one challenge after another and I haven't even started gluing anything yet!
<~~~working with snakewood though.................
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Thank you. Its cored with maple and weighs 19oz even. Ivory joint and ivory hoppe stlye butt with 3/8 10 pin and Tiger Ultra shaft with black monitor lizard wrap.
Forgot is it snakewood forearm and buttsleeve.
ALOT of cuemakers "HATE" working with the stuff,
just for points and inlays"
Very unstable and unpredictable wood, UNFORTUANTELY"
I think it looks great in a cue,
But I dont want to invest serious $$ in one
Well yes & No! I've seen a couple of cues built by Bill Hagen which were "apparently" this way, but what he did was rip the snakewood lengthwise, reverse directions and glue it back together. They still warped and were very thin in order to get the weight in the playing range, but looked OK.
There was no "A" joint but the lamination was Bill's attempt at warpage prevention.
just more hot air!
Sherm
There was no "A" joint but the lamination was Bill's attempt at warpage prevention.
just more hot air!
Sherm
You guys think coring 2-6" peices with a dash ring in middle would be ok for wrap handle, don't you?