10 Ball Break

CGM

CGM

It'd be a lot cooler if you did.
Silver Member
I've been playing a lot of 10 ball lately and for the life of me I cannot consistently make a ball on the break. I would say that I may make 1 ball every 10 or so racks and that is usually because it gets kicked in by another ball. What is the secret to making a ball on the break? For reference I am shooting on a 9' GC3 with standard GC pockets and Championship Tournament cloth.
 
Using a template? Are the balls actually tight?

That said, I also have poor break results at 10b, vs 9b...about the same as 1p, actually:angry::o:(
 
10 ball break is pretty much the same as 8 ball, the ball to make is one of the two behind the head ball. Normal hit is a handspan off center, full hit at about 60-75% power. At times the 1 ball can go to the side if you use a side or cut break. The corner balls have a chance to go around the rails into pockets also if nothing gets in the way and the rack was tight and even.
 
And...
Move the 1b around on the spot, if possible. As long as it is touching the spot, it is a legal rack.

If what you're doing isn't working, change something.
 
CGM said:
Yes I am using an Outsville template.
Click to expand...

I break from dead center to 2 inches off either way depending. Like hang said just like 8 ball, Slight touch of high, center ball and a firm stroke, not too much power just nice and solid and try to spread hose 2 balls behind the 1 into the sides, possibly 4 rail the 2 or 3 on the corners. With a template I’m like 60-70% at least to make a ball unless I’m just not playing well
 
Try much less power (like 50%). I have found that if I'm not making balls, I kept trying to break harder. One day I took a lot off it and instead concentrated on accuracy and control. I had much better results and have been doing it ever since.
 
Just drop the most difficult ball to play position
for in a pocket and pretend like it fell.

No one will know if you're practicing by
yourself and just move on.
 
gxman said:
Just drop the most difficult ball to play position
for in a pocket and pretend like it fell.

No one will know if you're practicing by
yourself and just move on.
Click to expand...

Lol, yeah that's one way to do it but this won't help me if I'm playing a tournament.
 
Racking the balls has a lot to do with it. You need to have at least one of the four ball tracks frozen to be the most effective (same four ball tracks as 9-ball). Also, a lot of top players will feather the head ball back into the rack creating a small gap between the two balls in the second row. Some may consider this cheating but it sure does help and most top players do it.

A good 10-ball break has a distinct popping sound to it. Watch SVB or James Aranas break and listen for it. The cue ball is actually hopping off the table slightly and landing perfectly on the head ball. Some players will break further back from the head string to give the cue ball time to hop and come down into the head ball. With timing being so important it's very hard to master.
 
Well, you could watch Van Boening, Shaw or one of the other pros on YouTube, to see where they are hitting the lead ball in the rack & how hard they are hitting the cue ball. You can also use the Slow-Motion function on some YouTube videos.

Pay attention to the Cue Ball;s action & final resting place.
 
Recent Ginky Memorial Pro/Am 10 ball revealed MANY balls in on the break were the two end balls going completely around the table and coming back to the end pockets in the rack area
 
Check out the Shane VanBoening break instructional that TAR made a few years back.
it goes into detail about the 10ball break, especially making the 2 balls in the side pockets racked behind the one. Shane explains how to adjust with power or cueball placement when the balls are going below or above the side pockets along with playing shape on the one with the break. There is also a slow motion sequence of his break from the side. you can see the energy/momentum start in his feet, go through his body all the way through the wrist, well worth the few bucks they're
selling it for.
 
hmmm

CGM said:
I've been playing a lot of 10 ball lately and for the life of me I cannot consistently make a ball on the break. I would say that I may make 1 ball every 10 or so racks and that is usually because it gets kicked in by another ball. What is the secret to making a ball on the break? For reference I am shooting on a 9' GC3 with standard GC pockets and Championship Tournament cloth.
Click to expand...

There are YouTube videos of both Corey and Thorstan, making several balls on the break in 10 be on 7 ft. tables and they are very symmetrical. Understanding where each ball is supposed to go/can go naturally is half the battle. If you are using a template, the where you are hitting the 1 ball is likely an issue. You may also be breaking too hard or too soft. There is such a thing as breaking too hard in 10 ball. 8 ball is probably the only game I have seen Shane break with full power and absolutely destroy the rack.
 
CGM said:
I've been playing a lot of 10 ball lately and for the life of me I cannot consistently make a ball on the break. I would say that I may make 1 ball every 10 or so racks and that is usually because it gets kicked in by another ball. What is the secret to making a ball on the break? For reference I am shooting on a 9' GC3 with standard GC pockets and Championship Tournament cloth.
Click to expand...

I played 10 ball ghost for 8 months daily for 3 or 4 hours a day.

First:

Measure to make sure the spot is in correct area of table. To close to foot or to far a away and it will affect the break...big time. 25 to 25 1/8" from foot is fine.....within 1/8" of center from side to side is ok but dead center is much better.

When first starting 10 ball, i was doing the following:

Making the one ball track to the corner opposite of same end your breaking from.

Concentrate on making only one of the two balls behind the head ball by moving the CB over about an inch at a time until it throws the second ball on the sqme side your breaking from.....long or short of side pocket and then adjust in 1/4 inch at a time until you find the sweet spot for that ball.

The two center balls in the back....if you get the 1 ball to track, the center back ball on same side as you break from will track toward the corner pocket that closer to your CB when breaking.

The two corner balls in back.....breaking from exact center is a no no. Those two balls, if racked tight and straight, will have a wreck around the head rail. To avoid that, break in same area as it takes to track 1 ball.

Hard or softer breaks?.......well, if you're players the ghost and you can run ten balls do what i do:

I put CB 3 or 4 inches to one side of center on head string. Break around 22 mph but faster will create clusters sometimes. Hit the CB about half tip abive center si it will track back up table a little closer to one ball and to get it out of the center of table so it dont get kicked around.

Also:

10 ball.breaks need to be STOKED not punched. You dont have to have a half-table follow through but dont cut your stroke short...dont hold back....push the tip through the ball.

If you have problems with power start out with the wrist flick before using other much more complicated break strategies.

The 10 ball break "has to be" much harder than 9 ball....again, unless your playing ghost and want to just "spread" the table. Otherwise, in my experience 21 to 23 is my sweet spot.

Also, hit the head ball......VERY SOLID...or its all for nothing.
 
CGM said:
Lol, yeah that's one way to do it but this won't help me if I'm playing a tournament.
Click to expand...

On a serious note:

If your in tournament play and your opponent is a run out player in 10 ball and your break isnt working:

Break from dead center, just hard enough to get corner balls to meet at head string.

Hit head ball at a 7/8 ball bit...sort of a mini cut break that will kick the CB off the stack, to side rail and back INTO stack and most likely be a safe and may force your opponent to push.

At the very worst, your opponent will not have to contend with the 1 at center table or close, the 2 and 3 in kitchen while CB is hopefully.....in rack area or close.

Also, make note of where the 4 and 5 are. If they are in the back, zhoot even easier. If there in front, shoot a tad harder.

Dont forget any rules the hiuse has about balls crossing string or half table..etc...etc.
 
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