One of the most important tools in any Cue shop is a Dial indicator. It sure helps in knowing what's straight before you drill, bore and tap anything.
1st timer
- Thread starter GoldCrown
- Start date
Thank you... I had a piece of junk D.I. Trashed it. Please suggest a decent unit.
This particular cue I'm working is a beginners learning tool. I'll benefit whatever comes out of it.
I have 2 lathes... the one I'm using here is a MidA Large Bore. I'm pretty satisfied with what it has been doing so far. My first shaft repair was for a friend...plugged/tapped and installed an insert. Worked out very well. You did help out with that.
How are you today?
You can get one at harbor freight, magnetic base.
Works pretty well
Machines are great but in time, you'll realize the guy standing at the machine is just as important
It's the imagination that brings it all together
This was a simple inexpensive setup I made for my Mid America lathe. Sometimes I have to remove the slide dial and stop off as it's in the way. May have to try and rethink that. The left right dial, I just clamp on when needed. My runout dial, I now just use a magnetic v block base on the spindle head.
It's all crude but really helps at times. All just from stuff I had laying around the shop.
It's all crude but really helps at times. All just from stuff I had laying around the shop.
It’s all about the archer. I always understood that and always appreciated quality craftsman. Especially cue makers.
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Does your slide have a little too much play,,, mine seems to. I also have Hightower’s Micro ll and it is tighter
Not sure if you mean the in and out part of the cross slide, or the slide to the rail.
The in and out has two allen screws to adjust the brass wedge, also there is a lock down in the center that can be set a little tighter, but I think the best way is the two outer screws to adjust the brass wedge. Adjust equally or you may get out of alignment.
I would mark first so you know where you started, if they need adjustment, you probably are only going to turn them a 32nd of a turn or less.
As to the cross slide, these are instructions.
The in and out has two allen screws to adjust the brass wedge, also there is a lock down in the center that can be set a little tighter, but I think the best way is the two outer screws to adjust the brass wedge. Adjust equally or you may get out of alignment.
I would mark first so you know where you started, if they need adjustment, you probably are only going to turn them a 32nd of a turn or less.
As to the cross slide, these are instructions.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
I switched my runout indicator to a horizontal type.
I like that! Also I see your in out stop and dial is lower out of the way, nice. I may make some modifications, but fishing season starts this weekend, and I'm trying to get my boat and gear ready to take it all to our summer place.
It really sucks being retired as I just don't seem to have time for everything, when I worked I seemed to make it all work out somehow.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
I had it higher originally, but it was always in the way. I just attached it to the side. I wish they made these types with the smaller dial like the horizontal type. Good luck with the boat. I got rid of that problem a long time ago, but I understand.
Cross slide that holds the cutting burr(s).
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Do you mean the slide has play or the knob has play?
Slide could be tighter. I think it has to do with the brass nut on the threaded rod underneath
Attachments
Also note his Noga holder. They are SO much better than standard ones with rods and snugs.
Holding System
www.noga.com
Dave
Awesome! I have a similar plan to convert a 1 piece to learn but I'm too broke after buying the lathe to get materials!
Hope you can turn that 'round.
Dave <-- will be here all week
I have to put this off until Oct.... anyway I'd like to know the attraction to the 3/8 pin. I realize the epoxy pin is light. I do not like the 3/8 ...mainly working with it. I have been tinkering, trial fitting on a cheap dowel. My preference is a UniLoc or 5/16-14 pin and insert. Not debating anything...just want to understand the popularity of the 3/8. I'm a mediocre hobbiest and very average pool player. I have a decent collection of production cues and enjoy whatever pin came with them. Comments please. Thanks
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
There are many discussions on AZB about this. Personal preference is the most common theme. Screw together time, wear longevity, market compatibility, tightness, appearance, "feel", etc.
I like the 5/16-14 pin and used it for my first few cues. I was familiar with the thread size from my Pechauer cues I played with at the time. The insert is an extra expense, but installation is simpler for a beginner. As I gained some experience, I made the decision to switch to the 3/8-10 flat modified. It comes in different materials for weight/balance consideration, and I can make my own inserts. For me personally, I like the look of the pin, and how it feels screwing together. I even replaced the 5/16-14 pin with a 3/8-10 pin in the cue I made for myself.
I like the 5/16-14 pin and used it for my first few cues. I was familiar with the thread size from my Pechauer cues I played with at the time. The insert is an extra expense, but installation is simpler for a beginner. As I gained some experience, I made the decision to switch to the 3/8-10 flat modified. It comes in different materials for weight/balance consideration, and I can make my own inserts. For me personally, I like the look of the pin, and how it feels screwing together. I even replaced the 5/16-14 pin with a 3/8-10 pin in the cue I made for myself.
You can use whatever you prefer.