2 part question about jump breaks

havoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
1st.
what are your opinions on the jump breaks that are $150.00 and under. e.g. j and j,fury,lucasi,kaiser,anvil,players etc.?

2nd.
whats a good shaft diameter for a jump break?
 
I personally did not have a one of those jump breaks. However my father and everyone on my pool team does. There really seem to do really well. I strongly suggest the phenolic tip ferulle combo.

My first jumpbreak I had was made by Jim Buss about 17 years ago. Back then I had him make me a 14mm and 13mm shaft. But now days with the laminate shafts I think that a 13mm is more than stiff enough. That is want I'm using now. Jim Antil a local maker did really well for me.
 
The Fury Jump Break is an excellent one for $179 and less than that if you look around. It works as well as any more expensive one in my opinion. The Fury has a pro taperered shaft that many people like better than the thicker shafts found on most breakers these days.

I have owned or used them all including Mr. Varney's and in the performance category there is very little difference between them.

Mr. Varney will have a different opinion and I wouldn't expect anything less.

Beyond the Fury I would reccomend the Bunjee Breaker and just about any generic one in that vein. They are all copied from the Bunjee Breaker anyway so the performance is about the same.

Diameter: 13mm is a good diameter. This allows you to put spin on the ball yet also to contact enough ball to achieve the jump. I played with a Sledgehammer that would not jump a particular shot and we all though it was technique. Turns out it was 12mm. With a 13mm one and with a stock Bunjee Jumper cue the same shot was no problem.
 
Varney Cues said:
1st...you get what you pay for.
QUOTE]


Very true that you get wha you pay for...

I have a Fury Jump break and love how it hits but the shaft is now cracked.
The crack is completely through the shaft starting at the ferrulle and travels down about 2 1/2 inches. I am not a big breaker so this happened under normal conditions. Don't know what I am goning to do now.

Whitey
 
I've had the lucasi, players, and j&j jump breaks. both the lucasi and players use normal playing shafts. they have pro tapers, not any special break taper, so it is a bit whippy which takes some of the power out of the shot. if you put a phenolic tip on them they are OK, but they would really do better with a stiffer taper. the lucasi is better quality and has nice uniloc joints. the j&j is the best value jump break i've run across. larger diameter tip (usually around 13.5 or so), phenolic tip, and a stiff break taper. jumps and breaks well. the quality isn't the greatest (similar to players), but it is decent and it is cheap. I've heard from others that the kaiser j/b is is quite good for the money. Hope this helps.
 
whitey said:
Varney Cues said:
1st...you get what you pay for.
QUOTE]


Very true that you get wha you pay for...

I have a Fury Jump break and love how it hits but the shaft is now cracked.
The crack is completely through the shaft starting at the ferrulle and travels down about 2 1/2 inches. I am not a big breaker so this happened under normal conditions. Don't know what I am goning to do now.

Whitey

I guess I have never quite understood the logic of this quote. "you get what you pay for". So this assumes that if you get a cue that breaks unexpectedly that you have paid for that to happen? I don't think that you expect to get a broken cue no matter how much money you spend.

Fury Cues stands behind their cues 100%. If a cue is broken due to a manufacturing defect then they will replace it free of charge. Just as Mr. Varney and most other cuemakers I have know will stand behind their products. The fact is that a very small percentage of Fury cues come back with defects. And no cuemaker can control what will happen with the wood once it leaves the shop.

I have had a Schon, a Jacoby, and a Prather all break below the joint. All three cuemakers agreed that it was a defect in the wood and promptly replaced the cues. Same with the Fury, I have seen a few Fury cues which broke in the butt due to internally defective wood. No problem, replaced. I have not yet seen a shaft cracked but this doesn't mean that it's not the result of an internal fracture.

The thing to do is to call Sterling, the North American Distributor, for Fury and explain your situation. 877-283-7444 They will most likely tell you to send the cue in for inspection and will most likely replace it. If they don't then you can voice your concern here and tell us all about the experience. I wish you would do it either way. We need to know the positives and the negatives about all the companies we deal with.

John
 
Varney Cues said:
1st...you get what you pay for.

2nd...13mm+

Thats the way to go

I use the J&J break jump combo and I love it, takes a little bit of getting used to, because I used to use alot of follow but I then cut back on the follow and it made my break better overall for cueball setup in middle of the table

P.S.
I had got mine for $40 shipped to my house and looking back I would have paid at least twice that, because some of the people I beaten have Fury combos and the sledgehammer. I just smirk, and beat them.
 
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