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3/8 11 or 10 tapping help
- Thread starter patrickjuhlin
- Start date
Good question...........you shouldn't have too if all is done right. On rare occasion though, you may have to use a tap to just clean the threads out if you get any debris in them later done the road after the mill cutting.
That's the only reason I can really think of that it may be necessary.
The best/cleanest way to cut threads in wood.......................IMHO.
<~~~taps = tearing wood...not cutting wood.............
I wonder if I can get set up doing live threading, I have a Cue smith lathe, Mini Metal Machine Lathe and a Unique products taper shaper. Any ideas on how much it would cost to get set up to do live threading and if its possible with my set up?
You need a machine you can cut threads on...ie..a metal lathe.
A high speed router....dewalt or porter or similar mounted on your tool post.
I have a tooling guy custom grind my cutters.
Not sure but I don't think your cuesmith will work. Might be able to set up the mini for it though.
Can you cut threads on it?
It has a T.P.I chart on the mini lathe that ranges from 12 - 52 TPI if that means anything, if so I will do research to use it for live threading.
Hi Buddy, How's it going?
I keep looking at the pic of the threads you've cut into the shaft.
In all honesty, it ain't pretty. No biggie, the shaft can be saved.
This would be an ideal candidate for a phenolic insert.
I'm not up on the capabilities/limitations of the equipment you've listed since I don't use any of it. I do know that if your mini-lathe's thread chart states that it cuts 12-52 TPI (threads per inch), it won't cut the threads you want, 10 & 11. Nor do I think that the spindle is large enough for the big end of the shaft.
I'm certainly not knocking anyone else's methods and I'm sure that everyone who's offered advise is doing so with good intention.
Each has their own method based on what works for them.
I've worked on metal lathes all my life and know what works for me.
I have no desire to try and cut threads in any other manner.
Live tooling is the nuts and probably the best way to go if you're set-up for it. Be advised that it ain't cheap but could be done on a shoe-string if you're careful about what you buy. But it's certainly not the only way to get the job done.
It tickles me when I read a post where someone has just bought a metal lathe and is disappointed that it has a 3ph. motor. Now they're looking to swap out the motor for a single phase unit. This type of operation is exactly why you WANT 3ph.
3ph will give you instant reverse. Tapping a shaft is tapping a blind hole. There is no exit, just an entrance. If you bottom-out a tap, something's going to give. Either the tap will slip in the tail-stock mounted drill chuck, or the tap will tear out the threads in the shaft. If you were tapping metal, you'd probably break the tap. Mark the tap for the depth that you want and when you hit that depth in the shaft, just hit reverse and the tap backs itself out of the hole, all under power. A tip that I'll share is that if you want slightly cleaner/tighter threads, when you've reached desired depth of the hole with the tap, just 'bump' reverse to bring the chuck to a complete stop and remove the tap carefully by hand.
If spinning the chuck by hand works for some guys then so be it. It's just not something that I'd ever do. Too many pitfalls. You only get one shot to do it right the first time. Patrick, if you ever need help, just drop me an email or call me at the shop. I'd be glad to help you whenever I can.
I keep looking at the pic of the threads you've cut into the shaft.
In all honesty, it ain't pretty. No biggie, the shaft can be saved.
This would be an ideal candidate for a phenolic insert.
I'm not up on the capabilities/limitations of the equipment you've listed since I don't use any of it. I do know that if your mini-lathe's thread chart states that it cuts 12-52 TPI (threads per inch), it won't cut the threads you want, 10 & 11. Nor do I think that the spindle is large enough for the big end of the shaft.
I'm certainly not knocking anyone else's methods and I'm sure that everyone who's offered advise is doing so with good intention.
Each has their own method based on what works for them.
I've worked on metal lathes all my life and know what works for me.
I have no desire to try and cut threads in any other manner.
Live tooling is the nuts and probably the best way to go if you're set-up for it. Be advised that it ain't cheap but could be done on a shoe-string if you're careful about what you buy. But it's certainly not the only way to get the job done.
It tickles me when I read a post where someone has just bought a metal lathe and is disappointed that it has a 3ph. motor. Now they're looking to swap out the motor for a single phase unit. This type of operation is exactly why you WANT 3ph.
3ph will give you instant reverse. Tapping a shaft is tapping a blind hole. There is no exit, just an entrance. If you bottom-out a tap, something's going to give. Either the tap will slip in the tail-stock mounted drill chuck, or the tap will tear out the threads in the shaft. If you were tapping metal, you'd probably break the tap. Mark the tap for the depth that you want and when you hit that depth in the shaft, just hit reverse and the tap backs itself out of the hole, all under power. A tip that I'll share is that if you want slightly cleaner/tighter threads, when you've reached desired depth of the hole with the tap, just 'bump' reverse to bring the chuck to a complete stop and remove the tap carefully by hand.
If spinning the chuck by hand works for some guys then so be it. It's just not something that I'd ever do. Too many pitfalls. You only get one shot to do it right the first time. Patrick, if you ever need help, just drop me an email or call me at the shop. I'd be glad to help you whenever I can.
Talk with Chris Hightower, I think he can help you with the cuesmith lathe and live threadings.
Barry
Thanks for all the input. Luckily this is my first shaft and a test run. I assumed it wouldn't come out perfect and knew if there was a mistake made I could fix it by plugging up the shaft and re-tapping it.
Last night I went out and bought 1.25X1.25 X24 inch I turned down to a round to cut in sections and practice on, so far the same results on a couple of attempts with various methods. Clearly after doing some research with the help of my fellow AZ'ers I completely agree that live threading looks to be the triple nutz when it comes to taping. After watching DZ's video which is amazing and looks really precise, I am sold on live threading. http://dzcues.com/videos.htm
Check DZ's videos ( ferrule and shaft ).
I just want to get my feet wet in the mean time by making some shafts and some simple Plain Janes while saving up for a live threading attachment for my Hightower lathe or simply go big and get the Unique products cue maker lathe with the threading attachment.
KJ, I will give you a call to get your input. I hear you on the first threading job
those threads did not come out great, atleast I got to throw it on my Satin Southwest and hit some balls for the first time with a shaft that I actually made from a 1X1 X 30 inch square. It felt good and the shaft plays real nice, I just need to get the threading thing dialed in and core out the old threads and put some new ones in.
A mentor of mine once told me = "The fastest way to succeed is to double your failure rate."
Last night I went out and bought 1.25X1.25 X24 inch I turned down to a round to cut in sections and practice on, so far the same results on a couple of attempts with various methods. Clearly after doing some research with the help of my fellow AZ'ers I completely agree that live threading looks to be the triple nutz when it comes to taping. After watching DZ's video which is amazing and looks really precise, I am sold on live threading. http://dzcues.com/videos.htm
Check DZ's videos ( ferrule and shaft ).
I just want to get my feet wet in the mean time by making some shafts and some simple Plain Janes while saving up for a live threading attachment for my Hightower lathe or simply go big and get the Unique products cue maker lathe with the threading attachment.
KJ, I will give you a call to get your input. I hear you on the first threading job
those threads did not come out great, atleast I got to throw it on my Satin Southwest and hit some balls for the first time with a shaft that I actually made from a 1X1 X 30 inch square. It felt good and the shaft plays real nice, I just need to get the threading thing dialed in and core out the old threads and put some new ones in. A mentor of mine once told me = "The fastest way to succeed is to double your failure rate."
Thanks for all the input. Luckily this is my first shaft and a test run. I assumed it wouldn't come out perfect and knew if there was a mistake made I could fix it by plugging up the shaft and re-tapping it.
Last night I went out and bought 1.25X1.25 X24 inch I turned down to a round to cut in sections and practice on, so far the same results on a couple of attempts with various methods. Clearly after doing some research with the help of my fellow AZ'ers I completely agree that live threading looks to be the triple nutz when it comes to taping. After watching DZ's video which is amazing and looks really precise, I am sold on live threading. http://dzcues.com/videos.htm
Check DZ's videos ( ferrule and shaft ).
I just want to get my feet wet in the mean time by making some shafts and some simple Plain Janes while saving up for a live threading attachment for my Hightower lathe or simply go big and get the Unique products cue maker lathe with the threading attachment.
KJ, I will give you a call to get your input. I hear you on the first threading job
A mentor of mine once told me = "The fastest way to succeed is to double your failure rate."
I dont know what cue smith lathe you have but Chris sells a live threading attachment for his Deluxe lathe for around $650
Regardless of what drill bit you used, try measuring the hole after you drill it. I use 3/8-10 screws & like my hole to be .309-.312, no bigger. It looks like you hole is just too big...JER
I would try some 3 in 1 oil on the tap. I still hold the tap in the tail stock and turn the chuck by hand. To me it's not broke so I don't need to change it. I use a 19/64's drill,
A 7x12 mini lathe will cut 10 and 11 tpi they just don't have it listed on the factory chart, check these pages out for a thread calculator as well as some other good info in the mini lathe. Should be required reading for a new mini lathe owner :thumbup:
http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm#Cutting_Odd_Threads
http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm
http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm#Cutting_Odd_Threads
http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm
If you use a smaller drill bit to tighten up the fit, you may find that the resulting threads with the sharper points that you see will chip and break off some in time. I use a center drill, then a carbide 1/4 inch bit, then a 5/16 solid carbide drill bit in a lathe that is accurately centered to the tailstock. The accurate setting up of your lathe is the most critical part of this kind of work ! I also have lathe cut the nose, and installed a steel button onto all my taps, then cut the OD of the button to fit the hole size I use for each tap. This keeps the tap centered nicely when it cuts. I really noticed that hand tapping the threads goes so much smoother and faster with the buttons installed. After cutting, I borrow an idea from Cueman: a little thin CA in the shaft hole to harden the threads. I try the fit onto a waxed pin in a butt. Sometimes have to chase the threads if the fit is too tight. The resulting fit on a pin is always snug like I like it. I have used the live tooling method, and the result is sure pretty. But, I am quite satisfied with the results I get with a tap as well. I always cut the threads under hand power, it takes only a minute at most. MY taps are H2 grind.
This is all my opinion, and it works for me, and the pins I use. The methods expounded here, though varied, work for the cue maker that offered you the suggestions. Best Wishes.
This is all my opinion, and it works for me, and the pins I use. The methods expounded here, though varied, work for the cue maker that offered you the suggestions. Best Wishes.
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Don't know if it's been mentioned, but I pour thin CA into the hole and let sit for a min or two. Then pour out, let dry and cut threads. It seems to make cleaner cuts. Hope this helps.
Good point.
I do this with my weight bolt hole, about the only hole I can't live thread simply due to it's depth.
I'll pour CA in before and after tapping, then chase once more again. I feel it helps a little at least.
3/8 10
I use 5/16 drill bit after center drill then put tap in chuck not real tight and with lathe at med. speed turn on then off while putting pressure on tale stock and when tap spins in chuck release chuck and back out manually. Gives you clean tight fit every time.
I use 5/16 drill bit after center drill then put tap in chuck not real tight and with lathe at med. speed turn on then off while putting pressure on tale stock and when tap spins in chuck release chuck and back out manually. Gives you clean tight fit every time.