3/8x10 joint question
- Thread starter sprben83
- Start date
Is it a flat faced pilot? If it is, will work. May make an odd sound at times though.
If the shafts are piloted and the cue joint is flat faced, it cannot work.
The term flat-faced ivory means just that....flat and smooth without recess.
The piloted joints have a brass threaded insert that accepts the thread
but the face of the shaft joint is "not flat" and so it will not assemble flat
and flush with a flat ivory joint. The piloted cue joint sits flat & flush only
because a piloted cue joint is not only threaded but is shaped & contoured
to thread and sit perfectly flat & flush with the brass collar on the shaft's face.
So even if the threads were identical and from the same cue-maker, a piloted
shaft connecting to a flat ivory cue joint will never assemble properly.....Ever.
The term flat-faced ivory means just that....flat and smooth without recess.
The piloted joints have a brass threaded insert that accepts the thread
but the face of the shaft joint is "not flat" and so it will not assemble flat
and flush with a flat ivory joint. The piloted cue joint sits flat & flush only
because a piloted cue joint is not only threaded but is shaped & contoured
to thread and sit perfectly flat & flush with the brass collar on the shaft's face.
So even if the threads were identical and from the same cue-maker, a piloted
shaft connecting to a flat ivory cue joint will never assemble properly.....Ever.
Last edited:
Duh......YES!.....If you have spacing between the shaft and the cue butt....the cue is not
assembling properly and you will ruin the cue and shafts and the cue will not even play
correctly and the hit will be horrible and...and...and....it's a disaster waiting to happen.
But if this shaft is shaped differently because the joint is different, and I'm not familiar with
every cue manufacturer's cue joints, but if it will sit flat and flush without "any" spacing or
separation between the shaft and cue joint, then you should be okay. The best place to
find out I think would be the cue-makers section of the Forum.
assembling properly and you will ruin the cue and shafts and the cue will not even play
correctly and the hit will be horrible and...and...and....it's a disaster waiting to happen.
But if this shaft is shaped differently because the joint is different, and I'm not familiar with
every cue manufacturer's cue joints, but if it will sit flat and flush without "any" spacing or
separation between the shaft and cue joint, then you should be okay. The best place to
find out I think would be the cue-makers section of the Forum.
Last edited:
I think it should be alright but remember that there can be slight differences with the
threads when the cue and shaft are from different manufacturers, even when the thread
appears to be the same. Schon cues have 5/16x14 stainless steel joints and Schon is
known for consistency and quality in production.......but older Schon cues will not
assemble using a new Schon cue (same cue joint /thread) the same as with the older Schon
cues' 5/16x14 thread.
You should look to your cue-maker or cue shaft manufacturer for a more solid answer or the
cue-maker's section for an expert, more reliable answer. I think you should be okay but purely
speaking on a personal basis, I still wouldn't do it. Instead, I'd find another shaft that is the same
design as your cue's joint and obviously, you may or may not concur with doing something like that.
threads when the cue and shaft are from different manufacturers, even when the thread
appears to be the same. Schon cues have 5/16x14 stainless steel joints and Schon is
known for consistency and quality in production.......but older Schon cues will not
assemble using a new Schon cue (same cue joint /thread) the same as with the older Schon
cues' 5/16x14 thread.
You should look to your cue-maker or cue shaft manufacturer for a more solid answer or the
cue-maker's section for an expert, more reliable answer. I think you should be okay but purely
speaking on a personal basis, I still wouldn't do it. Instead, I'd find another shaft that is the same
design as your cue's joint and obviously, you may or may not concur with doing something like that.
I meant that the joint has to be flat, no metal bump out like in a Joss.
Depends on how big the pilot is. If it's a big pilot that is over 70% of the shaft joint diameter, then a flat-faced shaft might end up sounding funky/tinny/pingy on the recessed butt if the wall thickness is relatively thin.
What's the cue brand?
Its an ernie omori
Hmmmmm..... I don't know enough about Ernie Omori cues, but it seems like he does full flat-face 3/8ths-10 as well as piloted cues that I would have sworn are 5/16ths.
I'll defer to someone more knowledgeable on his (calling Jim Baxter or others), but something's amiss. If Omori piloted cues are 3/8ths-10, I wouldn't put a flat-faced 3/8ths-10 shaft.
It will fit, but I don't think you'll like the feel.
Here's an Omori with I guess it's a 3/8ths-10.
Freddie
Attachments
Last edited:
I called Ernie , just now and his standerd pin is 3/8 x 16 or 3/8 x 10 both piloted . He will use what ever pin the buyer want tho . I have hit with several cues that Ernie built and never heard any weird noises . Jim
That's the cue I just bought haha
Is the Pilot on the cue threaded?
Yes it is............
Internally, yes. Not externally like the super joint.