3" connecting screws

Busbee Cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hello,

I would like to know if anyone on here has or can make some 3" 3/8 16 aluminum screws with a 1/6 slot cut along the length for glue releif? PM me if you can help out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
What is a 1/6 Slot?

Busbee Cue said:
Hello,

I would like to know if anyone on here has or can make some 3" 3/8 16 aluminum screws with a 1/6 slot cut along the length for glue releif? PM me if you can help out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
What is a 1/6 Slot?
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
What is a 1/6 Slot?
He means a 1/16 glue channel across the screw, I think.
Put it in a vise and air grind it or just use a file, my suggestion.
 
i buy the 3/8x10 aluminum rod from atlas and cut a glue relief channel in with a dremel tool with carbide disk
piece of cake
 
Hey guys,

Why do you need to cut a slot on this screw? Is this for helping you make a 3+ piece cue? :confused:

 
krbsailing said:
Hey guys,

Why do you need to cut a slot on this screw? Is this for helping you make a 3+ piece cue? :confused:

To make trapped air escape so the cue doesn't explode from hydraulic pressure from the epoxy .:eek:
I'm too cheap to buy these connecting screws. I just thread wood.
 
krbsailing said:
Hey guys,

Why do you need to cut a slot on this screw? Is this for helping you make a 3+ piece cue? :confused:

The slot in the screw is to allow you to fill the tapped hole with glue and the slot relieves the glue pressure. It allows the complete wrap joint to be filled with glue without any air pockets to cause a buzz in the cue. You can also slot the wood threads with a jig saw and eliminate the need for slotted screws.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
Just DYI

An inexpensive die grinder and a cutoff wheel can be had from many tool supplies or Harbor Freight. Then a slot can be cut by hand holding the grinder with the screw in a vice in a couple seconds, it is simple and very cost effective. Stainless screws are quite soft and cut quick. If you want to keep threads smooth you can mount a SS wire wheel on your bench grinder to debur the threads.
 
> I've always thought that this would be easier on a mill using an indexer and a 1/16 ball nosed end mill. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
> I've always thought that this would be easier on a mill using an indexer and a 1/16 ball nosed end mill. Tommy D.
Tommy, Call this guy 914-391-3464 Tom Migilore, he will hook you up.
 
Tommy-D said:
> I've always thought that this would be easier on a mill using an indexer and a 1/16 ball nosed end mill. Tommy D.

Aluminum is very sticky and melts at a low temperature. On smaller end mills the aluminum welds itself to the endmill and then it will break off. I always just put a parrallell of the proper hight into my mill vise so that I can lay the bolt horizontally to the vise and the top 1/3 of the bolt is sticking out of the top of the vise. I then just run a facemill down the length of the bolt taking the threads off on one side so that a cross section of the stud now looks similer to a "D". Very quick and clean and no broken end mills. Takes about 30 seconds to load a stud and plane it off and start another.

It saves a lot of time when making parts to make a lot of them when you are set up for that operation. I usually do about 75 studs at atime which is about a years worth. I usually make around a 100 ferrules at a time, and I cut my standard size phenolic deco-rings 50 or 100 at a time. A lot less wastage of material and cues or shafts can be assembled a lot faster.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Aluminum is very sticky and melts at a low temperature. On smaller end mills the aluminum welds itself to the endmill and then it will break off. I always just put a parrallell of the proper hight into my mill vise so that I can lay the bolt horizontally to the vise and the top 1/3 of the bolt is sticking out of the top of the vise. I then just run a facemill down the length of the bolt taking the threads off on one side so that a cross section of the stud now looks similer to a "D". Very quick and clean and no broken end mills. Takes about 30 seconds to load a stud and plane it off and start another.

It saves a lot of time when making parts to make a lot of them when you are set up for that operation. I usually do about 75 studs at atime which is about a years worth. I usually make around a 100 ferrules at a time, and I cut my standard size phenolic deco-rings 50 or 100 at a time. A lot less wastage of material and cues or shafts can be assembled a lot faster.

Dick
How do you prevent your tan phenolics from oxidizing Dick?
They turn dark after a while.
Coat them with wax?
 
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