Any thoughts on using a 3 point eye pattern, involving the object ball, cue ball, and a point on the cue; e.g., the joint or tip of a point?
Thanks
Thanks
3 point Eye Pattern
- Thread starter PhilosopherKing
- Start date
Might be a great thing in Training. I like to keep it simple during game time.
Maybe I need more info from you???
randyg
What would you like to know?
To preface, this is not how I normally shoot. It's just something I started playing around with yesterday and found interesting.
(object ball, cue ball, joint, object ball) - practice stroke
(object ball, cue ball, joint, object ball) - practice stroke
(object ball, joint, object ball) - practice stoke
(object ball, joint, object ball) - finish stroke
Thanks
I like the tip of a point idea, I use the 3 point aim when I remember too, and it definetely improves my aim I believe, but I focus on the bridge as the 3rd point. Gonna have to try that point tip idea. Good one!
once I thought about this tip of point idea, I believe the points are too far back to be of use.
I use a pretty long bridge with my back hand toward the end of the cue. The point tips are out in front of my face on most shots, and can be of use to me.
However, my idea isn't really as much about aiming as it is about the direction the cue will be traveling in during a straight stroke. It's about having a better feel for the line of the shot and avoiding steering.
For example, if I were to aim using a ghost ball, I would be visualizing and sighting the joint pin traveling through the center of the cue ball through the center of the ghost ball.
Landplayer
Registered
My 3 points are: chin - cue ball - the way you want the cue ball to go
PhilosopherKing...Steering the cue comes directly from too much grip pressure. It has nothing to do with any eye pattern. Try this one...it's what the brain doctors and eye doctors taught us:
Get down into your stance. Once you're done aiming, keep your cue still, and focus on the aim point on the CB for 2 seconds (tip close and stopped). Then, without moving your cue, focus on the aim point on the OB for another 2 seconds. Now look only at the CB and do your warmups. Stop your cue at the CB for 1 second, move your eyes up to the OB (and stay there). Smooth backswing, easy transition, and accelerate your cue forward, to your natural finish position. Freeze to evaluate.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Get down into your stance. Once you're done aiming, keep your cue still, and focus on the aim point on the CB for 2 seconds (tip close and stopped). Then, without moving your cue, focus on the aim point on the OB for another 2 seconds. Now look only at the CB and do your warmups. Stop your cue at the CB for 1 second, move your eyes up to the OB (and stay there). Smooth backswing, easy transition, and accelerate your cue forward, to your natural finish position. Freeze to evaluate.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Thank you. I'll try that.
At times, I feel as though I'm bringing the cue off line during my backstroke and then "steering" it back on line as I move toward the cue ball.
At other times, it seems like I want to "steer" my follow through in the direction of the cut.
I found adding the joint into my eye pattern helped me stoke straight through the shot.
PhilosopherKing...Here's some food for thought. The elbow is a hinge. It can only move in a straight line...unless one or two things happen. They are, 1) grip too tight, and/or 2) overflex the bicep. With a relaxed bicep and a relaxed grip, the forearm moves in a dead straight line, with a pendulum swing. Remember, the tension can come from one or both of these problems. That's what causes steering of the cue. 
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
PhilosopherKing...Here's some food for thought. The elbow is a hinge. It can only move in a straight line...unless one or two things happen. They are, 1) grip too tight, and/or 2) overflex the bicep. With a relaxed bicep and a relaxed grip, the forearm moves in a dead straight line, with a pendulum swing. Remember, the tension can come from one or both of these problems. That's what causes steering of the cue.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Thanks.
What if the shoulder is the problem? Can it too cause a steer?
Any tips on how to anchor the shoulder in the correct position throughout the entire of the stroke?
Go check out this vid and its second part on the forcefollow youtube channel
http://www.youtube.com/forcefollow#p/u/4/5u52gKAehqo
I speak about some of the differences b/t the pendulum and piston/vector style strokes.
To answer your question yes the shoulder can be a problem. But normally the shoulder is caused to become involved with the stroke b/c of outside influences, not inherently b/c the root is the shoulder.
With a pendulum style stroke a light grip is what is called for and what the body actually needs to accomplish the pendulum stroke correctly.
The light grip or CRADLE as i prefer to call it will inhibit tension in the forearm and upperarm. All of which are interconnected and link directly to the stroke arm shoulder.
If you don't have tension the "hinge" that is the elbow is free to swing without drawing the upperarm and shoulder into the equation.
If you find your having to "LOCK" your shoulder in place then I suggest working on lessening the quantity of pressure your using when holding the cue stick.
Conversely and this has not been scientifically proven but from my immideate research I've found (some have concured and I even go over this in the video) that when compared to the grip pressure of your pendulum stroke, a piston style stroke will be most effectively accomplished in a smooth fluid motion by increasing the grip pressure.
I find this b/c its the exact opposite of the pendulum. The pendulum calls for a "cradle" or light grip to disassociate the forearm/upper arm/shoulder from one another, THUS a "FIRMER" grip in the piston compared to that used in a pendulum stroke will ASSOCIATE the forearm/upperarm/shoulder to link mechanically and in TIME to deliver the shot in a smooth mechanical motion.
If you use the same "cradle" or light grip that you use in the pendulum stroke on the piston style.....one will find that there can be a distinct LAG between the forward delivery of the hand and the drop of the elbow.....making for a HITCH in your stroke.
NOTE: Do not confuse what I'm saying by thinking that I'm saying that a "TIGHT" or "FIRM" grip should be used in the Piston stroke.......the strength of grip is arbitrary from person to person, all I mean is that the effective extra strength of grip that you add to your "cradle" used in the pendulum when using the piston is going to be greater than normal which is your cradle.
It's something you'll have to play with. Firmer doesn't mean that your going to squeeze the guts out the cue, only that its firmer than the cradle.....how much firmer is something your going to have to figure out for yourself by paying attention to your body.
-Grey Ghost-
Thanks for taking the time to write such an informative response to my question.
PhilosopherKing...It's important to note that while there are distinct differences between the piston and pendulum swings, there is no shot that can be accomplished with a piston stroke, that cannot be accomplished with a pendulum stroke. Therefore, since the pendulum stroke is much simpler and more accurate (making it more repeatable), I cannot find any reason to use a piston stroke.
Regarding your question about involving the shoulder...when you overflex your bicep, it gets the shoulder involved. The shoulder is a ball & socket, and can easily steer the cue. Then the shoulder is driving the shot, not the forearm swing and cue weight. There is no necessity to "hold" the shoulder steady (or in your verbage, 'lock' the shoulder). Hold your arm out to your side. Let your forearm drop, keeping the elbow stationary. This shows you that there doesn't have to be any interaction with the shoulder joint. Hope this helps.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Regarding your question about involving the shoulder...when you overflex your bicep, it gets the shoulder involved. The shoulder is a ball & socket, and can easily steer the cue. Then the shoulder is driving the shot, not the forearm swing and cue weight. There is no necessity to "hold" the shoulder steady (or in your verbage, 'lock' the shoulder). Hold your arm out to your side. Let your forearm drop, keeping the elbow stationary. This shows you that there doesn't have to be any interaction with the shoulder joint. Hope this helps.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Thanks for the clarification, and thank you in general for the help.
