4 Pt, 4 Veneer Full Splice Blank On Ebay

point blank

Maybe it's just the bad pics but it kind of looks like one of the point tips is messed up a little bit. The far right image of the point looks like it's not as sharp as the others. Wonder why the cuemaker didn't complete it? ..........hmmmmmmmmm.
 
cyrex said:
Maybe it's just the bad pics but it kind of looks like one of the point tips is messed up a little bit. The far right image of the point looks like it's not as sharp as the others. Wonder why the cuemaker didn't complete it? ..........hmmmmmmmmm.[/QUOTE

Almost looks like it has about an .008 radius. Check out Gartland's snakewood Mottey, The points are much wider, like a titlist
Click to expand...
 
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SPINTHEBALL said:
cyrex said:
Maybe it's just the bad pics but it kind of looks like one of the point tips is messed up a little bit. The far right image of the point looks like it's not as sharp as the others. Wonder why the cuemaker didn't complete it? ..........hmmmmmmmmm.[/QUOTE

Almost looks like it has about an .008 radius. Check out Gartland's snakewood Mottey, The points are much wider, like a titlist
Click to expand...


Opps, Amboyna bulr Mottey. Excuse me Mike
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I've never seen a full splice blank before that had that much space between the points/veneers. Are you sure this is not a short splice with a pretty piece of wood as a handle? You can't really tell from the pics if the points and handle are continuous as would have to be for it to be full splice.

Titlist cue points all came down and met at the base of the point, except for a flat where the saw cut was the width of a sawblade.

Maybe the verbiage is wrong and it should be "true" splice and not "full"? I'd like to see better pics if it is truly a full splice blank.
 
cuenut said:
I've never seen a full splice blank before that had that much space between the points/veneers. Are you sure this is not a short splice with a pretty piece of wood as a handle? You can't really tell from the pics if the points and handle are continuous as would have to be for it to be full splice.

Titlist cue points all came down and met at the base of the point, except for a flat where the saw cut was the width of a sawblade.

Maybe the verbiage is wrong and it should be "true" splice and not "full"? I'd like to see better pics if it is truly a full splice blank.
Click to expand...
I think Mark Bear has a different method of "full splice" construction. See this link:

http://www.bearcues.com/fullsplice.htm

That may explain some of the differences mentioned above. ICBW, though! :rolleyes:

Also, I believe that the point looks rounded because the blank is oversize. It should sharpen as it is turned down.
 
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ScottR said:
I think Mark Bear has a different method of "full splice" construction. See this link:

http://www.bearcues.com/fullsplice.htm

That may explain some of the differences mentioned above. ICBW, though! :rolleyes:

Also, I believe that the point looks rounded because the blank is oversize. It should sharpen as it is turned down.
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The cue making blanks that I make are made differently than the finished fullsplice cues that go out of my shop. The blanks are squared off at the bottom and there is more space between the points due to the way in which they are constructed. They have an oversize taper and the points do sharpen when it is turned.

The finished fullsplices that I make are similar to the Titlists. The points are wide and the veneers meet at the bottom of the splice. The picture and explanation attached to this from my website only explains the blanks not the construction of my finished fullsplice cues.

Thanks,

Mark
 
Fullsplice said:
The cue making blanks that I make are made differently than the finished fullsplice cues that go out of my shop. The blanks are squared off at the bottom and there is more space between the points due to the way in which they are constructed. They have an oversize taper and the points do sharpen when it is turned.

The finished fullsplices that I make are similar to the Titlists. The points are wide and the veneers meet at the bottom of the splice. The picture and explanation attached to this from my website only explains the blanks not the construction of my finished fullsplice cues.

Thanks,

Mark
Click to expand...
I didn't know you monitored and posted on here and didn't mean to speak for you, Mark. I apologize.
 
Full spliced blanks

I've bought full spliced blanks before from Mark and I only have good things to say! It's constructed really nicely.
 
Thanks for the feedback on the blank construction. Interesting. Once turned down, I'll be they look really nice. Thanks for the replies, Mark and ScottR. I will surely check out the weblink.
 
ScottR said:
I didn't know you monitored and posted on here and didn't mean to speak for you, Mark. I apologize.
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Scott,

No need to apologize at all. I just wanted to clarify.

Mark
 
SPINTHEBALL said:
cyrex said:
Maybe it's just the bad pics but it kind of looks like one of the point tips is messed up a little bit. The far right image of the point looks like it's not as sharp as the others. Wonder why the cuemaker didn't complete it? ..........hmmmmmmmmm.[/QUOTE

Almost looks like it has about an .008 radius. Check out Gartland's snakewood Mottey, The points are much wider, like a titlist
Click to expand...


I'm not a cuemaker, just a customer of Mark Bear. When I originally purchased the blank, I planned on having it turned down and completed by a local cueman. Since acquiring the cue, plans have changed. I purchased a very nice purpleheart titlist blank that I'm going to be using as my everyday player. Whatever money I get from the sale of the cue will go towards the restoration of the titlist.
Click to expand...
 
cyrex said:
Maybe it's just the bad pics but it kind of looks like one of the point tips is messed up a little bit. The far right image of the point looks like it's not as sharp as the others. Wonder why the cuemaker didn't complete it? ..........hmmmmmmmmm.
Click to expand...

Concerning the points, we're just not used to seeing them at this stage. Once it's turned down, done properly they will be plenty sharp.

Here are some pics of a couple of 1950's Titlist blanks I have. See how rough they are compared to the finished product.

Notice Mark's different way of handling the handle to nose connection on this blank.

The Titlist Story

Chris
 
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Fullsplice said:
The cue making blanks that I make are made differently than the finished fullsplice cues that go out of my shop. The blanks are squared off at the bottom and there is more space between the points due to the way in which they are constructed. They have an oversize taper and the points do sharpen when it is turned.

The finished fullsplices that I make are similar to the Titlists. The points are wide and the veneers meet at the bottom of the splice. The picture and explanation attached to this from my website only explains the blanks not the construction of my finished fullsplice cues.

Thanks,

Mark
Click to expand...

whats your reason for doing them different?
 
SPINTHEBALL said:
cyrex said:
Maybe it's just the bad pics but it kind of looks like one of the point tips is messed up a little bit. The far right image of the point looks like it's not as sharp as the others. Wonder why the cuemaker didn't complete it? ..........hmmmmmmmmm.[/QUOTE

Almost looks like it has about an .008 radius. Check out Gartland's snakewood Mottey, The points are much wider, like a titlist
Click to expand...


The points, at their widest, measure 11/16". By comparison, my other full-splice cue measures 3/4" at the base.
Click to expand...
 
merylane said:
whats your reason for doing them different?
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There are several reasons why I build my finished cues differently than the cue making blanks. First I think there should be something that sets them apart from each other. Otherwise any cuemaker could call and buy a blank and finish it with no discernable difference between what they build and I build. My other concern was that as popular as fullsplices have become recently I didn't want to become a full time "blank maker". My finished cues take precidence and that is something that I know my customers appreciate.

Another reason the blanks are spliced differently is to make it easier and faster both for me and the other guy to make and turn to finish size. If you order a blank from me it is ready to turn to finish size when it arrives. The points are even and the centers are true which takes the guess work out of it for a lot of people. I found out quickly when I started offering these that you end up dealing with a lot of people with a wide array of skill levels so the easier it is for them the easier it ends up being for me. I had a guy send one back because the points were "screwed up", like what was described earlier in this post. I simply turned it to finish size and sent it back. I just try to make it easy and to do that there are some sacrifices (squared off bottom, more narrow points).

In contrast my finished cues are like the Titlist in design. The points are longer but as wide and the veneers meet at the bottom of the splice and come to a point. The blanks cause some confusion because people see them and think all of my cues are like that and that's simply not true.

Mark
 
Fullsplice said:
There are several reasons why I build my finished cues differently than the cue making blanks. First I think there should be something that sets them apart from each other. Otherwise any cuemaker could call and buy a blank and finish it with no discernable difference between what they build and I build. My other concern was that as popular as fullsplices have become recently I didn't want to become a full time "blank maker". My finished cues take precidence and that is something that I know my customers appreciate.

Another reason the blanks are spliced differently is to make it easier and faster both for me and the other guy to make and turn to finish size. If you order a blank from me it is ready to turn to finish size when it arrives. The points are even and the centers are true which takes the guess work out of it for a lot of people. I found out quickly when I started offering these that you end up dealing with a lot of people with a wide array of skill levels so the easier it is for them the easier it ends up being for me. I had a guy send one back because the points were "screwed up", like what was described earlier in this post. I simply turned it to finish size and sent it back. I just try to make it easy and to do that there are some sacrifices (squared off bottom, more narrow points).

In contrast my finished cues are like the Titlist in design. The points are longer but as wide and the veneers meet at the bottom of the splice and come to a point. The blanks cause some confusion because people see them and think all of my cues are like that and that's simply not true.

Mark
Click to expand...


makes cents, what machines are you using?
 
Fullsplice said:
There are several reasons why I build my finished cues differently than the cue making blanks. First I think there should be something that sets them apart from each other. Otherwise any cuemaker could call and buy a blank and finish it with no discernable difference between what they build and I build. My other concern was that as popular as fullsplices have become recently I didn't want to become a full time "blank maker". My finished cues take precidence and that is something that I know my customers appreciate.

Another reason the blanks are spliced differently is to make it easier and faster both for me and the other guy to make and turn to finish size. If you order a blank from me it is ready to turn to finish size when it arrives. The points are even and the centers are true which takes the guess work out of it for a lot of people. I found out quickly when I started offering these that you end up dealing with a lot of people with a wide array of skill levels so the easier it is for them the easier it ends up being for me. I had a guy send one back because the points were "screwed up", like what was described earlier in this post. I simply turned it to finish size and sent it back. I just try to make it easy and to do that there are some sacrifices (squared off bottom, more narrow points).

In contrast my finished cues are like the Titlist in design. The points are longer but as wide and the veneers meet at the bottom of the splice and come to a point. The blanks cause some confusion because people see them and think all of my cues are like that and that's simply not true.

Mark
Click to expand...

makes cents, what machines are you using to cut your splice?
 
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