5 min epoxy

RocketQ

RocketQ

It's Not Rocket Science
Silver Member
I am looking for a good 5 min rock hard setting epoxy for ferrules at Tournaments. In the shop I use West but I have to let it sit overnight.
I have tried Bob Smith industries, West G5, and loctite 6 min epoxy and I am not convinced I have found the right product yet. I need a 15 minute cure time to machineability if there is such a thing. Any help would be great. System three?? Mas??
 
One thing that you can do to acclerate the cure is to warm up the epoxy before you mix it. I haved used everything from a light bulb to a microwave oven with good results. Just do get it to hot.

GD :)
 
I use devcon with no complaints. You can buy it at wal-mart. comes in a 2 part syringe. I used to buy the bigger bottles at lowes, but local lowes has stopped carrying them. Now they only carry the stuff that dries yellow.
 
HPbyGD said:
One thing that you can do to acclerate the cure is to warm up the epoxy before you mix it. I haved used everything from a light bulb to a microwave oven with good results. Just do get it to hot.

GD :)
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blowdryer works good also
 
Ask the nice folks at Loctite. They have dozens of epoxy adhesive products and can likely provide you some interesting recommendations. Here is a link to their site where you can download their adhesives sourcebook.

http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_us/hs.xsl/6126_USE_HTML.htm

Temperature does affect set-time and cure-time as noted by HPbyGD. Having said that, if you pre-heat the epoxy resin and harder you will also reduce the work-time, so I'd suggest heating the glued assembly instead. As a data point, some high strength epoxys used for golf clubs set in 4 hours and cure in 24 hours, at room temperature. At 140F it sets in 45 minutes and cures in 3 or 4 hours, if I remember the charts right. We used a string of Christmas lights under rows of clubs, worked like a charm :)

Dave
 
I've used devcon in the tubes before, but I use System-3 for My 5-minute in the shop. It's called QuickCure-5. When mixed properly It gets hard enough in my opinion. You can somewhat control the time, and how hard It gets By dropping a viagra in it:p :D, or better yet how much hardener you use, although I'm sure they wouldn't recomend It. I've never had a failure when I used It for ferrules though. I only use It when I have to though, and I'm rushed for time. You may could get away with titebond on threaded ferrules, because on them the bond grabs pretty quick for what it is, as long as your lathe is turning the correct direction, but It will take longer then the epoxy to be sure, and any excess glue will gum up your tooling quickly, because It doesn't harden quick at all, the mechanical bond just grabs quickly using it for some reason, even when the excess glue on the outside is still wet.

That QuickCure should get the job done for You though:)

Greg
 
Thanks guys.
Greg i only do threaded ferrules. Won't do em any other way.
 
I use G-5 quick setting epoxy on all of my ferrules. I use non threaded, capped ferrules, that I guarantee for life and out of the probably 3,000 or so of ferrules I've installed, I've never had one returned over a glue issue.

Dick
 
RocketQ said:
Thanks guys.
Greg i only do threaded ferrules. Won't do em any other way.
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Yeah I make My ferrules threaded to, alot of times I try to keep to the original design on repairs, just one of those clicks for me I suppose. Sometimes if I need to replace a tenon, I will thread them though, or if the original design happened to be threaded. If I know I'm gonna have to take down a tenon to 5/16 anyway, to either straighten it out, or clean it up, then I may thread them too, just depends on what the owner wants me to do.Personally I do like just having to screw them on and not have to clamp, but I also like the added mechanical bond.
 
I thread almost all ferrules, and have never had to wait for any glue to dry. Thread them on, cut them to size, install the tip, sand the last couple of thousandths, out the door. 10 minutes for the whole process. Never a problem. I could see wanting something that cures fast if you do a slip-on ferrule, but if you thread them all, I don't understand what your issue is?
 
Sheldon said:
I thread almost all ferrules, and have never had to wait for any glue to dry. Thread them on, cut them to size, install the tip, sand the last couple of thousandths, out the door. 10 minutes for the whole process. Never a problem. I could see wanting something that cures fast if you do a slip-on ferrule, but if you thread them all, I don't understand what your issue is?
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On threaded ferrules, I don't worry about a long cure time either. The tool pressure with the lathe turning, could only tighten the ferrule anyhow, not loosen if it was fitted properly. I've never had the shoulder at the wood move afterwards with a threaded ferrule, no matter how soon afterwards I turned them down, but surely it would show there at the shoulder where the ferrule meets the maple if there was a problem. When doing a capped ferrule the glue gumming up the tool isn't really a problem either, that's only an issue when the ferrule is open face, possibly over lenth, not easy to get all the glue out of the end, and needs cut off at the face. The shoulder gets wiped down well anyhow, so that's not really a factor. I just did a moochie slip tenon, so I had that on the brain when I mentioned the tool gumming up I guess. Not a problem for me with capped ferrules. if they are threaded and capped, then I can go right to It, and don't worry much with dry time regardless of glue type.
 
I knew a guy that only used Elmer's glue on threaded ferrules. AFAIK, he never had a problem with them ever coming loose. I use epoxy because it bonds well, and it's usually handy, since I have so many other uses for it.
 
i have been using the white Gorilla glue,just a tiny amount,but immediately after i put the ferrule on i start cutting and then sand.i never wait and have never had one spin.i would think that 5 minute epoxy would be bad about showing glue lines,but then again what do i know?sometimes i get glue happy and i don't use epoxy b/c i always figured it would leave a line if i put too much on.
 
masonh said:
i have been using the white Gorilla glue,just a tiny amount,but immediately after i put the ferrule on i start cutting and then sand.i never wait and have never had one spin.i would think that 5 minute epoxy would be bad about showing glue lines,but then again what do i know?sometimes i get glue happy and i don't use epoxy b/c i always figured it would leave a line if i put too much on.
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As long as the faces are square there shouldn't be a glue line. I was told that Gus Szamboti used natural glue on natural products and epoxies on steel, plastics and phenolics. On Ivory and wood he supposedly used Franklin's wood glue.

Dick
 
i'll give a it a try sometime.seems like epoxy would be wet enough to darken the maple.i have also used wood glue on them too.stays very clean and bonds very strong.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
If your threading your ferrules why are you using epoxy?
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Just did for the last 8 years. Started with wood glue titebond 2 then switched and never looked back. If it ain't broke.....~~~~~~
 
RocketQ said:
Just did for the last 8 years. Started with wood glue titebond 2 then switched and never looked back. If it ain't broke.....~~~~~~
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I guess that's my thinking.....if your threading two parts together....that should be enough mechanical bond to hold it there forever. The glue is used just to keep it from un-threading. Even with both faces as clean and flat as possible some glues will soak in and leave the ugliest of lines. The transition from material to material is all that should seen....IMO.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
I guess that's my thinking.....if your threading two parts together....that should be enough mechanical bond to hold it there forever. The glue is used just to keep it from un-threading. Even with both faces as clean and flat as possible some glues will soak in and leave the ugliest of lines. The transition from material to material is all that should seen....IMO.
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Absolutely correct. There are a number of reasons that I use a quick setting epoxy for ferrule installation.

1. It is a very quick setting glue. Once properly mixed it starts setting up in about 2 minutes.

2. It is fairly thick, in fact, thicker than most any other glue so it doesn't soak in as easily as thinner glues especially in the limited time before it is set up.

3. It is a fairly clear glue, so, that if it is not soaked into the adjoining wood, is nearly invisible.

4. I believe it is plenty strong enough for the application. There are stronger glues but I believe they would be overkill as far as strength is concerned and they being, slower setting, thinner and often darker in color are certainly drawbacks.

Dick
 
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