5x10
- Thread starter Ric
- Start date
Benelli
Well-known member
I desperately want to find one of the GC1 5x10 snooker tables and just have new dots installed on the rails and clean up the pocket angles.
My goal is to have a custom room built that will fit two 7's one valley, one diamond, one 9ft table either a GC1 or a Diamond, and that one GC1 10ft'er.
Yes, it will be a large room...
My goal is to have a custom room built that will fit two 7's one valley, one diamond, one 9ft table either a GC1 or a Diamond, and that one GC1 10ft'er.
Yes, it will be a large room...
I'll take one, too.
If you have the space, don't see why not. I played on one several times, it was manageable, but definitely tougher, especially for me being shorter.
I've got a few 10' Centennials in storage. One is a snooker conversion. One benefit to a snooker conversion is that the castings have smaller openings and the pockets shelves are a smaller radius and a deeper shelf. See photo - you can easily see this when you look at the slates. So this makes for a tougher playing table even with wider pocket openings. If I was to put a 10' in my house I would use Mark Gregory's advise and make the pockets 4-1/2. Don't make them too tight so that it's discouraging to play on. Plus the table being bigger is more than enough challenging. So being 10 feet with 4" pockets will cause you to go into a deep depression. And if you have Mark do the rails the pockets will play nice and accept the ball if hit well.
Last edited:
I grew up playing on a 3/4 snooker table, which is a 5x10. I learnt quickly how to use the spider, bridge properly.
We have one 10 foot table in our pool room with 4-1/4” corners. We keep it covered up and I only allow our better players to play / practice on it, which they love to, but not all the time. I have always said that if I practiced on it all the time and felt like I got to playing well, my game would be much improved for our tournament matches which are held on our 9 foot tables.
However, I don’t have the discipline or the mental toughness to play on it all the time because it can be so demoralizing.
If you are a good enough player to break and run a rack of 8-ball or 9-ball at least 1 out of 10 times that you make a ball on the break and have a reasonable opening shot, or can occasionally run 30+ balls in straight pool, and you have plenty of room, I’d say go for it. But if you do not play at a certain level after playing for many years, I think a 9 foot table would be more than enough to challenge you.
I had a long money session at Bensingers when I was young…..I was a 6x12 snooker player so it was nice for me.
Pretty sure it was a Brunswick 5x10.
Last edited:
Your house, your rules. (unless you are married!). Do as you please.
Smutzc
Well-known member
Play on one every day, during Covid bought a 10’ diamond to replace my 9’ gold crown. Ended up keeping the gold crown. Best decision I’ve ever made. There is no longer a long shot on a 7’ table. The 10’ really develops your stroke. The only down side is you do not have to deal with clusters as often like you do on a bar box. But I think the pros out weigh the cons
Flakeandrun
Well-known member
There is a 10foot diamond that I make the effort to go and play on once a month (only suggestion would be to tighten it from 4.5 to 4.25 corners). The most fun you can have (that I have had anyway) is playing pool on a 10footer. Had some fun money games on that table. If the club was closer to me, I would make that my go-to hall just for that table. I am lucky enough to have another fantastic hall to call my 'home', that costs me nothing. In this city, you are spoilt for choice really. If I had a house, and I had space, and I had available funds... no question in my mind. That's what would be in it.
It's much easier than 4" Rasson tables, but it is much easier to make yourself feel like a boss. Although it is less challenging, it looks more challenging. So, if you like to make videos or record yourself, you get your ego stroked a lot more from your non-pool playing friends
It's much easier than 4" Rasson tables, but it is much easier to make yourself feel like a boss. Although it is less challenging, it looks more challenging. So, if you like to make videos or record yourself, you get your ego stroked a lot more from your non-pool playing friends
CanadianGuy
Well-known member
go for it
didn't both Gorst and Filler train on 10 footers?
didn't both Gorst and Filler train on 10 footers?
Do it!
Here’s a 5x10 anniversary for $1k
www.facebook.com
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here’s a 5x10 anniversary for $1k
Log into Facebook
Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.
www.facebook.com
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do it the right way…….make the CP pockets 4.5” and SP 5” and not any bigger.
This is a championship table setup and epitomizes what the greatest pool players
In pool history competed on before 9’ tables replaced 10’ as the standard. You play
on a 10’ with tight pockets and other than playing on a 12’ snooker table with demonic
curved pockets, you will not play on a table more challenging the remainder of your life.
Your pool game will elevate and this table setup isn’t any fun for newbies or players that
can’t run a rack of balls (15 balls not 9) on a 9’ table, pool was meant to be challenging
and your satisfaction and enjoyment will soar as you conquer the biggest and baddest
pool table ever made…..10’ because 12’ tables aren’t pool tables and Snooker is different.
Bite the bullet……resist making it easier by using 4.75” CP or heaven forbid, 5”. Don’t be
timid. And if you were to get a 9’ table instead, make the CP 4.25”. Harder is better unless
you don’t have the fortitude, ambition or skills to improve your level of play if you’re up to it.
I mostly play on 9’ Diamond Tables with 4 1/4” CP so anything over 4 1/2” seems pretty big.
The other thing that will happen is your use of a bridge will increase a lot and you’ll master it.
This is a championship table setup and epitomizes what the greatest pool players
In pool history competed on before 9’ tables replaced 10’ as the standard. You play
on a 10’ with tight pockets and other than playing on a 12’ snooker table with demonic
curved pockets, you will not play on a table more challenging the remainder of your life.
Your pool game will elevate and this table setup isn’t any fun for newbies or players that
can’t run a rack of balls (15 balls not 9) on a 9’ table, pool was meant to be challenging
and your satisfaction and enjoyment will soar as you conquer the biggest and baddest
pool table ever made…..10’ because 12’ tables aren’t pool tables and Snooker is different.
Bite the bullet……resist making it easier by using 4.75” CP or heaven forbid, 5”. Don’t be
timid. And if you were to get a 9’ table instead, make the CP 4.25”. Harder is better unless
you don’t have the fortitude, ambition or skills to improve your level of play if you’re up to it.
I mostly play on 9’ Diamond Tables with 4 1/4” CP so anything over 4 1/2” seems pretty big.
The other thing that will happen is your use of a bridge will increase a lot and you’ll master it.
I'll get a warning out of the way first. If your practice table is much different than what you compete on it will subtly change your game over time, harming your shot selection and pattern play. Other than that a tough practice table is nice!
My opinion, ten foot is the perfect table size, pool or snooker. The pockets were tighter on the old five by tens and then opened up in the early 1900's to speed up play for the spectators. Until Ralph Greenleaf came along the high run on the tight tens with I assume clay balls was 85 I believe, less than a hundred. Often no AC, clay balls, heavy cloth, there were more things than pocket size that contributed to low numbers. Ivory cue balls were often out of round or undersized as they had to be sent back to the factory to be reshaped now and then.
If I had room for a five by ten and found a nice one I would jump on it like white on rice! Nobody else can really say what is right or wrong for you, table size or pocket size. I wouldn't go smaller than four and a quarter or four and a half on corner pockets assuming a decent shelf and proper angles. Tables can be modified so they hoover up balls like a vacuum cleaner even with small pockets.
Hu
My opinion, ten foot is the perfect table size, pool or snooker. The pockets were tighter on the old five by tens and then opened up in the early 1900's to speed up play for the spectators. Until Ralph Greenleaf came along the high run on the tight tens with I assume clay balls was 85 I believe, less than a hundred. Often no AC, clay balls, heavy cloth, there were more things than pocket size that contributed to low numbers. Ivory cue balls were often out of round or undersized as they had to be sent back to the factory to be reshaped now and then.
If I had room for a five by ten and found a nice one I would jump on it like white on rice! Nobody else can really say what is right or wrong for you, table size or pocket size. I wouldn't go smaller than four and a quarter or four and a half on corner pockets assuming a decent shelf and proper angles. Tables can be modified so they hoover up balls like a vacuum cleaner even with small pockets.
Hu
ive played as much on a 5 by 10 as a 4.5 by 9 over the years. and it doesnt make you play better. it fools you into thinking shorter shots are easier. but they are not. same skill sets.
but going back and forth you change all your angles and speed control. so when you change it takes a while to really get fully proficient again. although it may seem long shots are easier.
it is like playing on tight pockets on the same size table. when you go from tight to loose you change how you play position and cheating pockets for position. as well as speed control. and visa versa. it messes you up as you hit the same shots on each table differently. and if you don't you are not playing efficiently.
but going back and forth you change all your angles and speed control. so when you change it takes a while to really get fully proficient again. although it may seem long shots are easier.
it is like playing on tight pockets on the same size table. when you go from tight to loose you change how you play position and cheating pockets for position. as well as speed control. and visa versa. it messes you up as you hit the same shots on each table differently. and if you don't you are not playing efficiently.