8 ball break
- Thread starter alstl
- Start date
I'm sure everyone breaks where they think they break best. In eight ball, your going to break without having the cue ball fly off the table. So that eliminates breaking from the side.alstl said:
I normally break a little right from the head spot.. but never on it.
Just hit the one ball square and the best position zone is in the center of the table. Also put no english on the ball..
alstl said:
Almost never play 8 ball, when I do I put the cue ball just off the side rail, hit with a little low and aim at the 2nd ball in. This seems to give me the best spread and almost always make a ball.
alstl said:
The 8-Ball Break can be accomplished several ways & the placement of the Cue Ball depends on the results you are looking for.
The Side Rail Break, shooting at the second ball, with some draw english, will scatter the rack. The downside to this type of break shot is (1) a possible scratch in the corner pocket (2) Launching of the Cue Ball (3) getting trapped in the rack area by too many balls. The upside is a possible "8 on the Break", which by the way in some league play doesn't count, but will cost you the game if the 8-Ball is pocketed & you have fouled.
A few inches off center, next to the head string, is good placement for the Cue Ball. A good center ball hit on the Cue Ball, hitting the lead ball square, will give up a well scattered rack & quite possibly Cue Ball position for the second shot.
Good Luck
check out blackjack's post at
http://www.easypooltutor.com/postp59541-h#59541.html
then lament that blackjack doesn't post on forums anymore
http://www.easypooltutor.com/postp59541-h#59541.html
then lament that blackjack doesn't post on forums anymore
ceebee said:
As I said I almost never play 8 ball. On unfamiliar equipment (cloth, rail and weight of cue ball) I will sometimes just play the head ball for the first few games.
However, when hitting the 2nd ball in, a good stroke is required and I use low left to keep the cue ball away from the corner pocket. It does not require a power break, at least I don't hit it that way, but a solid break so that the cue ball does not leave the table (low english and smooth stroke will keep it on the table). But you are right about being in the midst of traffic as balls are banging around. One other good point about this break for me is that I'm closer for inside work which gives me an advantage to construct a much better plan of attack, but poses some danger as you well pointed out.
If balls are breaking really good, I just stick with the head ball and forget the side rail thing.
gregory said:check out blackjack's post at
http://www.easypooltutor.com/postp59541-h#59541.html
then lament that blackjack doesn't post on forums anymore
It's in his blood and he does such a great job at it. I think you might just see posts that do not get involved in personal matters.
I'd agree with this approach. The side break will really scatter the balls if played correctly. And it often sends the 8 toward the opposite side or corner pocket. The downside, as stated by others, is that you sometimes get stuck in the middle of several balls. Or even on the rail behind the rack. And you can scratch if you don't hit the 2nd ball squarely. For the most part, the break from near the head spot (hit with center ball) seems to work as well as any. Scatters the pack and leaves the cb in a decent position.pete lafond said:
whitewolf said:
One reason for breaking off the rails is this, the stroke is allowed to be as close to being level as possible. The rails keep all of us from shooting with a level stroke.
WW made a good point, leave 20% of your power in your pocket & get that accurate hit on the rack... that will get the balls rolling real well.
Good Luck, you're gonna need it.
B
Bruce S. de Lis
Guest
alstl said:
I normally BREAK from Center of Table to the Left about 1", and to the Rear of the Foul line 1" Back.
My Target is the Ball in the Number 1 Position. Dead on with a Low Cener Hit.
My Object, or Objective is to Sink a Ball, Open up the other 14 Balls, and Return to a Position between the Side pockets with my Q BALL.
alstl said:
I'd like to know too because my break SUCKS!
It is uncanny how often I will smash a rack wide open only to having nothing fall. Except of the course the damn cue ball
Thanks for the tips guys but I can honestly say I have tried all the above and get the same results. I think it's just me because I have a guy on my team who makes balls on almost break. I imitate everything he does and yet again, nothing. He just looks at me and shrugs his shoulders...
Koop
I break on the first diamond on the right side of the table, one diamond up. I go for a solid hit on the apex ball with a center ball hit. I've been getting my best results with that break. Only once or twice i've scratched with that break, because I didnt hit the apex ball solid. It doesn't work on all tables for me though, so I usually use my warm-up time to try out a few breaks.
B
Bruce S. de Lis
Guest
One thing each time a question is asked, you get many answer from folks, as too what work for em. Than you got to pick and choose from the information, try everything until you find out what works BEST FOR YOU.
i did this with the Draw Shot, and got info to try, and now I can Draw Pretty Darn WELL..... Did it with the 9 Ball Break, and again my 9 Ball break is Pretty Darn Good....
i did this with the Draw Shot, and got info to try, and now I can Draw Pretty Darn WELL..... Did it with the 9 Ball Break, and again my 9 Ball break is Pretty Darn Good....
Bruce S. de Lis said:One thing each time a question is asked, you get many answer from folks, as too what work for em. Than you got to pick and choose from the information, try everything until you find out what works BEST FOR YOU.
i did this with the Draw Shot, and got info to try, and now I can Draw Pretty Darn WELL..... Did it with the 9 Ball Break, and again my 9 Ball break is Pretty Darn Good....
Bruce,
Like I said, my break sucks. I don't know how many people told me that if I could break better I would be a SL7 all day. Trust me when I say that I am taking notes on everyones opinion here and I will find one that works for me
Regards,
Koop
Tons'O'fun said:Koop -
Not that I'm an expert, but a little friendly advice if I may.
Try simplifying your break. Pick a spot on the table/rail to break from and don't change it throughout your practice sessions. Remove all english from the cueball and hit the center of the apex ball.
Once you start dropping them, notice where the cueball ends up and adjust accordingly. People who change where they break from after each unsuccessful break never really learn how to adjust.
Just my two cents.
Thank you very much and believe me, if you have success with the break, you're an expert from where I'm sitting.
Regards,
Koop
Tons'O'fun said:Even if I sink a ball on the break I still have to get out!.
For what it's worth right?.
I hear you. Obviously not every time, but most times if I get a good break and make a ball, I'll get out. The problem is, I rarely make a ball
Thank you for the help and I will definitely try it out.
Koop
B
Bruce S. de Lis
Guest
Koop said:Bruce,
Like I said, my break sucks. I don't know how many people told me that if I could break better I would be a SL7 all day. Trust me when I say that I am taking notes on everyones opinion here and I will find one that works for me
Regards,
Koop
Problem with this game is just when you think you are 100% Tuned In, Something Changes.
Hell I am going to Drop Weight on my Playing Cue, as 19.0, or 19.25+, is not doing it for me. 18.5-18.8 is the Thing today...
New Custom Breaker from JM is the only thing that is working.....
Koop said:I'd like to know too because my break SUCKS!
It is uncanny how often I will smash a rack wide open only to having nothing fall. Except of the course the damn cue ball
Thanks for the tips guys but I can honestly say I have tried all the above and get the same results. I think it's just me because I have a guy on my team who makes balls on almost break. I imitate everything he does and yet again, nothing. He just looks at me and shrugs his shoulders...
Koop
If you use a little draw when hitting the pack, the cue ball comes zipping back, the pack has a larger mass to it. Likewise, middle ball will also come off the pack. Much of the problem in breaking is to transfer the energy through the pack and still have control. Experiment a little. Hit the cue ball slightly above center until you see the cue ball come back a bit and stop.
Also, try to aim for a solid hit on the head ball. Hitting to the right or left of the head ball, even a little, will cause loss in energy transfer. Do not over hit or hit too hard because you will loose control and miss your target.
Also, depending on how dirty the balls are, how humid it might and even how the balls are racking you will want to change your power to find the best break. Cloth also has an effect.
Forgot to mention, you also need to consider the weight of the cue ball compared to the set. Start by hitting the cue ball slightly high and moving down until it works is the best approach. Many bar tables still have a cue ball, even though it appears the same size as the rest, that may be heavier. This is why some will actually get better luck hitting it a little lower.
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