8ball How would you play this?

[frankncali]

Okay Ladies and gentlemen its time for another How Would You Play This!

8ball and your Soilds with ball in hand. Bar Table and the match is Hill-Hill.
Let me know if you have any other questions

I had this layout and that night didnt see many options. I couldnt sit there all day and look at it.
Now I see a few other options.

CueTable Help

 

[whoaaaa]

Play a stun shot hitting the 6 into the 9 if possible, but if you can't make sure you leave the 6 blocking from him seeing the 9 ball. You should have a pretty ball-in-hand again with a better layout.

 

[frankncali]

Play a stun shot hitting the 6 into the 9 if possible, but if you can't make sure you leave the 6 blocking from him seeing the 9 ball. You should have a pretty ball-in-hand again with a better layout.

Sorry I couldnt get behind the six to do that.

I did think about nudging those balls and trying to get BIH after that but I chose a different option.

 

[gutshot]

I would graze off the 7, separating the 6 and 7 and snookering the cue on the rail making your opponent kick. If he swings and misses, you can combo the 9 in with the 6 or 7 and play safe again or try to follow it in and run out.

You could also combo the 9 in with the 1 and slide the cue near the 6 and 7.

Yet another option is making the 1 through the 9, shoot the 3 and 4 and make the 10 with the 5 rolling the cue forward near the end rail. This is not good if you make the 10 and do not leave the 5 by the pocket bc when you give up the table your opponent can simply come off one of his balls and leave the cue up table. Now you are in trouble bc you cannot make the 5 and you have your other two balls tied up.

Looking at it more, if you could hit the 7 full enough to make the 7-8-10 combo and run the cue forward behind the 6, that would be highly effect, but require a lot of precision.

Kelly

 

[DEAD MONEY G]

Okay Ladies and gentlemen its time for another How Would You Play This!

8ball and your Soilds with ball in hand. Bar Table and the match is Hill-Hill.
Let me know if you have any other questions

I had this layout and that night didnt see many options. I couldnt sit there all day and look at it.
Now I see a few other options.

CueTable Help

I would pocket the 9 with the 1 and draw the cue ball to the back rail right on the 6.

 

[trustyrusty]

just going on my first instinct (this is coming from a LOWLY league player), I'd carom the 9 in off the 1, moving the 1 as a blocker to the 2 stripes near the rail, but leaving the cueball near the pocket the 9 was in. I'd then have a seat and most likely watch my opponent find a way to win...lol

 

[Big Perm]

Thin cut on the 4 in the side with the natural angle to break up the 6 and 7 with a little speed.....next trouble ball to address as quickly as possible is the 1 - use the 3 to set up a straight in where it can go after the 9.....rest should be routine....set up to shoot the 8 where the 1 went......or, you can play the long bank....

 

[Neil]

................

 

[Eric.]

Lag the 4 to make the 10 and hang in the pocket while rolling the CB behind the 5. With the 4 blocking the pocket for the 8, maybe you'll have a chance to do something with the cluster next inning.

*edit- great minds, Neil....

Eric

 

[D Player]

If my opponent is a strong player, I would probably try something aggresive...

Place the cue ball near the 13 and cut the 1 into the 9. My goals would be to pocket the 9, leave the 1 by the lower left pocket, and run the cue ball into the 6 -- hopefully leaving the cue ball near where the 6 is now, with the 6 and/or 8 blocking the 10 ball.

With some luck, I'd leave the other guy a tougher runout and break up my cluster in case I get back to the table....

Not sure if I could pull it off, but that shot seems to give me the best chance to turn the tables on someone who is a favorite to run out, even if I tie up a stripe with ball in hand.

Against a weaker shooter, I don't know. Maybe tie up the 13 or 15 with either the 7 or 3....

 

[trustyrusty]

darn that Neil and Eric....I won't be playing them any 8ball anytime soon!! lol NICE SHOT

 

[bullshooter69]

This is one idea i had. Good one Neil and Eric.

This is what I'm going to try and do. If I get the hook behind the 5, (not that hard to do), I have a chance of getting ball in hand again. Then, I can work on the 7-6 problem. Bar box, I don't even want to leave a bank on the 15.

CueTable Help

I also like shooting the five into the ten leaving the five in front of the pocket. I would also float the cue ball down below the seven and six. I like putting the five in front of the eight.

 

[mamono]

I would drop the 5, 3, and 4 leaving position toward the back rail in preparation for the safe.

CueTable Help

This is the safe that I would do. Pretty much the same as mentioned earlier, but only difference is that I would run a little first and then safe.

CueTable Help

First time I've used cuetable, so trying to get the hang of it all.

 

[Jude Rosenstock]

This is what I'm going to try and do. If I get the hook behind the 5, (not that hard to do), I have a chance of getting ball in hand again. Then, I can work on the 7-6 problem. Bar box, I don't even want to leave a bank on the 15.

CueTable Help

I would go this way, too. By getting the 10ball off the table and possibly parking the 4ball in its place, you gain control of the table. You really need that 10 off the table if you're going to win this game. I understand the 6/7 are a problem but they're just going to have to wait.

 

[Jude Rosenstock]

I would drop the 5, 3, and 4 leaving position toward the back rail in preparation for the safe.

CueTable Help

This is the safe that I would do. Pretty much the same as mentioned earlier, but only difference is that I would run a little first and then safe.

CueTable Help

First time I've used cuetable, so trying to get the hang of it all.

The problem with going this way is the 9 and 10 have barricaded you on both sides, not to mention the 8ball is also in the mix. Even if you get BIH after nudging the 6/7 exactly as you plan, you're not a favorite to win from here. You have to resist the urge to pocket balls here. The table is stacked against you and this may be your only opportunity to reverse it. From the position of the original post, you need to come up with a GREAT shot IMMEDIATELY. I like Neil's approach and it's exactly what I thought of too. There may be others but thus far, none I like more than Neil's.

 

[Jude Rosenstock]

I also like shooting the five into the ten leaving the five in front of the pocket. I would also float the cue ball down below the seven and six. I like putting the five in front of the eight.

There's a lot of risk going this way and not a whole lot of reward. Since you want the cueball to travel further, it's going to require more speed which means you may not get the 5ball to hang-out near the pocket. What's more, where are you going with the cueball? Are you REALLY going to nudge the 6/7 significantly? It's safe to assume you're not going to improve the situation any by going into it with the 5ball and since you're playing safe ANYWAY, you should opt for the easiest safety available.

Although it's nice to solve more than one problem at a time in 8ball, I don't think this layout is a choice example of such. You need to drop that 10ball VERY deliberately. If you hit it just right, you'll block the pocket. THAT and hiding the cueball are your biggest priorities. Break out the 6/7 later when you've rearranged the balls in your favor.

 

[Jude Rosenstock]

I would graze off the 7, separating the 6 and 7 and snookering the cue on the rail making your opponent kick. If he swings and misses, you can combo the 9 in with the 6 or 7 and play safe again or try to follow it in and run out.

You could also combo the 9 in with the 1 and slide the cue near the 6 and 7.

Yet another option is making the 1 through the 9, shoot the 3 and 4 and make the 10 with the 5 rolling the cue forward near the end rail. This is not good if you make the 10 and do not leave the 5 by the pocket bc when you give up the table your opponent can simply come off one of his balls and leave the cue up table. Now you are in trouble bc you cannot make the 5 and you have your other two balls tied up.

Looking at it more, if you could hit the 7 full enough to make the 7-8-10 combo and run the cue forward behind the 6, that would be highly effect, but require a lot of precision.

Kelly

You have two stripes HANGING in two corner pockets. Any safety that doesn't remove one of them is relying heavily on your opponent's kicking capabilities. If he makes one, there's a reasonable chance he'll have position for the other which means a run-out is probable. What's more, he can still kick toward the 13/15 which are HUGE targets. You're probably not getting ball-in-hand again with this safety.

 

[Celtic]

Bullshooter is right IMO. With ball in hand you take the 5/10 combo as a natural cut to the left and you simply have to play soft top left to float the cueball off the rail and down table onto the rail between the 8 and 6/7 cluster.

You call the 5, which may go in, or it may hold up and block the only pocket the 8 goes to for stripes. If the 5 goes in you can nudge the 7 as a safe and use the 6 and 7 as blockers on the remaining balls and the guy has almost no real direct kick at the 9, the 3 and 1 become a royal pain in the neck for your opponent from there. He has to make the kick though or you are then playing the 6-9 combo and he is going to be buried under the 7 with a vastly worse kick and a loss of game without some kind of miracle hit.

Using the 5 as the blocker as you guys are doing leaves a fairly makable 1 rail kick on the 9, hit with pocket weight it leaves a short side shot on the 13 and shape on the 15.

AKA you better hope while you were looking at that freezing onto the back side of the 5 that you hit the 4 perfect and left it in the jaws so the 8 does not go.

With the floating of the ball down between the 8 and 6/7 cluster you are actually leaving a far harder kick for the incomming player, and landing is actually huge, you have alot of distance on going into the rail, bouncing, and comming out. Freezing onto a rail like that is far easier then trying to judge the weight to freeze on the back of the 5.

Keep in mind, in no way are you trying to nudge the 6/7 on the opening shot though, I don't think Bullshooter mentioned that he was trying to touch those balls in the slightest either, not sure why anyone would assume he was trying to hit them.

 

[Jude Rosenstock]

I would pocket the 9 with the 1 and draw the cue ball to the back rail right on the 6.

This is the other approach I could see coming up good. I prefer getting the 10ball off the table because it blocks the 8ball which buys you significantly more time however, with this safety, you take possession of a pocket that is convenient for your opponent. The 15ball AND the 13ball are probably going to need to be banked in (there's no easy route to the short side of either) and your opponent may have to drain the 10ball in order to try and get PERFECT position to do so.

Like I said, this isn't the way I'd go but I see nothing but roses in the future here.

 

[Jude Rosenstock]

Bullshooter is right IMO. With ball in hand you take the 5/10 combo as a natural cut to the left and you simply have to play soft top left to float the cueball off the rail and down table onto the rail between the 8 and 6/7 cluster.

You call the 5, which may go in, or it may hold up and block the only pocket the 8 goes to for stripes. If the 5 goes in you can nudge the 7 as a safe and use the 6 and 7 as blockers on the remaining balls and the guy has almost no real direct kick at the 9, the 3 and 1 become a royal pain in the neck for your opponent from there. He has to make the kick though or you are then playing the 6-9 combo and he is going to be buried under the 7 with a vastly worse kick and a loss of game without some kind of miracle hit.

Using the 5 as the blocker as you guys are doing leaves a fairly makable 1 rail kick on the 9, hit with pocket weight it leaves a short side shot on the 13 and shape on the 15.

AKA you better hope while you were looking at that freezing onto the back side of the 5 that you hit the 4 perfect and left it in the jaws so the 8 does not go.

With the floating of the ball down between the 8 and 6/7 cluster you are actually leaving a far harder kick for the incomming player, and landing is actually huge, you have alot of distance on going into the rail, bouncing, and comming out. Freezing onto a rail like that is far easier then trying to judge the weight to freeze on the back of the 5.

Keep in mind, in no way are you trying to nudge the 6/7 on the opening shot though, I don't think Bullshooter mentioned that he was trying to touch those balls in the slightest either, not sure why anyone would assume he was trying to hit them.

If this is executed perfectly, it'll work out fine. I just don't see any advantage going this way over Neil's approach which is just simpler. If, God forbid, you don't block the pocket with the 5ball (very possible) and you don't get the cueball near-frozen to the footrail, you're going to leave a not-too-difficult kick on the 9ball with auto-shape on the 13/15. Neil's approach allows for a softer hit and allows the shooter to control the combination better.