9' to BarBox
- Thread starter haystj
- Start date
The bar box
The bar box has a lot of things to teach a person about Potting and about spin. Mainly potting can be easier and applying spin to the shot is as well due to shorter distances.
It seems a little spin goes a long way on the bar box and leaving a player long is not as powerful a move against the opponent. Leaving them behind a ball is much better.
The bar box has a lot of things to teach a person about Potting and about spin. Mainly potting can be easier and applying spin to the shot is as well due to shorter distances.
It seems a little spin goes a long way on the bar box and leaving a player long is not as powerful a move against the opponent. Leaving them behind a ball is much better.
I think you will have more issues going from a GC to the Diamond than from a 9 to a 7 footer IMHO. More boingy and pockets play different.
As I'm sure almost all will say "play on a 7 footer". Go to that event and play on the tables in the room, if they are not setup, hunt around for a 7' Diamond you can play on.
You will be over-running your position quite a bit, at least I do when I play on 7 footers. Lighter hits, more center ball so the cueball does not take off.
Same thing for me. I play pretty much exclusively on 9 foot GC's too and I played last Saturday in a 9 ball tournament on diamond bar boxes. The diamond bar box requires a softer game because of the speed of the diamond and the shorter distance to travel. Play softer and let your English take you there. The diamonds are fast. On the bright side, you won't have a long shot being used to 9 footers.
Diamonds are fast, as they have the same Simonis cloth as 9' foot tables. Also, the pockets are tighter than Gold Crown. In 8-ball, clusters happen more often on 7', so position is more important. On a barbox, I stick with simpler strategies, and use more stop shots to hold my position.
Good luck on your tournament.
Good luck on your tournament.
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shot making is easier so don't make risky moves to get perfect shape..
The biggest mistake people make going from big tables to little tables is trying to get perfect shape..
Long shots on a bar box aren't long for a big table player... Take the easy position for the tougher shot MUCH more often, it will raise your runout percentages...
Jaden
The biggest mistake people make going from big tables to little tables is trying to get perfect shape..
Long shots on a bar box aren't long for a big table player... Take the easy position for the tougher shot MUCH more often, it will raise your runout percentages...
Jaden
Good luck, relax and have fun!
So where do you guys stand on cloth for a 9' table? I have a GCII at home with Artemis cushions and Simonis 860. I will be having the cloth replaced soon. I am wondering if maybe I should go to 760 instead of 860 again because all leagues and many tournaments are on Diamond BB, some tournaments are on Valleys. My table plays equal in speed to a Diamond 9' but naturally I need to slow down for the Diamond BB. I was thinking a faster cloth might help equal my stroke speed between my 9' and a Diamond BB or do you guys think this is a bad idea.Even most pool halls that have 9' tables still play most tournaments on BB.
Personally I try to keep is simple. Don't try to "overwork" the cue ball with a lot of spin. If you watch the Pro's on bar boxes, they keep it very simple using very little spin and don't shoot hard. It's much more of a softer game in my view. Using power strokes and such are just a recipe for disaster from what I've experienced.
And a lot of shots that are 'hope I dont get' on a 9' are easy on the bar box.
I believe that Diamond Products, which recover A LOT of their brand tables, uses Simonis 860. That cloth on a 7' table REALLY makes the balls move around FAST ! I think you should stay with 860 on your home table. Sometimes, in order to not rocket the cue ball around on a 7' Diamond table, I play a lighter cue. I always use an OB Classic shaft so to interchange it with a different lighter butt is simple.
For your consideration.
PM sent to fastone371.
For your consideration.
PM sent to fastone371.
Alright, so I played in the tourney and did well, for me.... should have gone farther, but isn't that true for everyone in any tournament.
It was at a place called Bank Shot in Maryland. Great place.
Those Diamond 7' tables with Simonis are FAST... You guys weren't joking around. I felt like I had to hit everything at half speed.
I guess I'm used to dead rails on the GC I play on, because the balls felt like they were exploding off the rails to me.
I might be off here but I felt the Diamond actually banked more "true" than the CG I play on.
Thanks for all the advice, it was spot on.
It was at a place called Bank Shot in Maryland. Great place.
Those Diamond 7' tables with Simonis are FAST... You guys weren't joking around. I felt like I had to hit everything at half speed.
I guess I'm used to dead rails on the GC I play on, because the balls felt like they were exploding off the rails to me.
I might be off here but I felt the Diamond actually banked more "true" than the CG I play on.
Thanks for all the advice, it was spot on.
Power strokes are next to useless if the game is played by call-shot rules. Except in one situation. The whole table looks terrible, you're in a bad position so you can't pocket anything OR make a good safety. The opponent will surely run out the moment he gets his turn. In that case it's not a bad idea to take the risk and use max power in order to "generally rearrange" the table. You can either make the situation the same or even worse (remember, you didn't lose much), or the balls may stop on much better positions, creating a few problems for the opponent and buying you a couple additional innings to try and turn the table.