A joint tenon

[josie]

I usually have my A joint tenon coming from the forearm into the handle. I have a forearm made up that I was wanting to keep the points as wide as possible so I don't want to cut the tenon on it. I know some guys put the tenon into the forearm from the handle. That just makes kind of nervous. I was thinking of boring out the forearm and inserting a purpleheart dowel into it to keep the length of the forearm and still have a tenon. I am kind of nervous because that is just another thing to have go wrong in the forearm. Have you guys ever glued a tenon into the forearm like this? Are there any pros or cons to it? Just looking for some input from guys that know a lot more about this than me.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Michael Webb]

I have done tenons both ways, absolutely no change in hit at all. There is nothing wrong with going from the handle up into the forearm, If there are no rings there use a tapered collet if your afraid of splitting it when you put it together, If done properly there will be no trouble, I would not add a seperate tenon, the less extra parts the better.

 

[manwon]

I usually have my A joint tenon coming from the forearm into the handle. I have a forearm made up that I was wanting to keep the points as wide as possible so I don't want to cut the tenon on it. I know some guys put the tenon into the forearm from the handle. That just makes kind of nervous. I was thinking of boring out the forearm and inserting a purpleheart dowel into it to keep the length of the forearm and still have a tenon. I am kind of nervous because that is just another thing to have go wrong in the forearm. Have you guys ever glued a tenon into the forearm like this? Are there any pros or cons to it? Just looking for some input from guys that know a lot more about this than me.

Thanks for the advice.

There are many ways to add a tenon to the forearm, but if not done correctly you certainly will have problems down the road. Most people use a dowel of a good well seasoned hardwood and purple heart is certainly a good choice. But this is how I do it, I bore a .750 hole into the forearm one inch deep. Then I take a piece of Phenolic Collar tubing that has been turned down to .748 and glue and insert it into the forearm. This turned piece of Phenolic Tubing should be two inches long. Once the adhesive is dry, a two inch piece of turned hard wood that is .620 OD is inserted and glued into the tubing. Once the adhesive drys face the end of the wood and tubing and bore and insert your connection screw. Bore a .750 hole into your handle one inch deep, then bore your hole for your connection screw and tap.

Using the Phenolic Tubing like I have outlined will insure no movement at the A-Joint, and there will never be a Buzz.

Hope this helps

 

[Mr Hoppe]

... I was wanting to keep the points as wide as possible so I don't want to cut the tenon on it.

How about cutting your tennon before cutting your v-groves? Then you can plan for the base of your points to come together as tightly as you like.
Mr H

 

[rhncue]

How about cutting your tennon before cutting your v-groves? Then you can plan for the base of your points to come together as tightly as you like.
Mr H

When making V-bottom points, what is left of the tenon would be extremely weak. On a 4 point cue my V's are cut to .050 from the center of the cue that leaves a cross of wood only .100 by .100 which isn't much. This is about as deep as I can cut and still leave enough strength in what little wood is left to support the forearm while gluing in the points and turning back round. After gluing in the veneer and point inlay you still have the very weak V cut directly behind these inlays.

Dick