I wanted to try a ca finish, but I am at a loss as to what brand to try, and which accelerator yeilds the best results?
Accelerator
- Thread starter Cheez Dawg
- Start date
I currently use a brand from Woodcraft, but can't remember the name. I just searched their site and didn't see it. It comes in an 8 oz bottle, for around $30, and I use the accelerator that is the same brand. So far, no problems, and it buffs out real nice. Knock on wood, no white spots as some glues/accel. cause. I'll check my shop tomorrow for the brandname.
Dave
Dave
dave sutton
Banned
i buy mine from atlas its in a brown pump style bottle. the reason like it is bc it smells sweet and doesnt burn your eyes. i use it for shafts but be carful bc you will burn the hll out of yourself*** lesson leand the hard way
www.cuestik.com
i also lik thick adhesive. less mess
www.cuestik.com
i also lik thick adhesive. less mess
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Sweet Smell?
I just wanted to mention, that if you can smell it, Sweet or Stink, you might be breathing in the Cyanogen Gases that might be released during curing..
Not knocking you post Dave, :smile: But, that sweetness might lead a person to stay in the fumes longer..
Just thought I'd mention the Safety part...
Reply to Dave S. -
"obv i not encouraging you to snort the stuff...lol"
Yes Dave, I knew that.
.. Just was speaking in general..Just for thought..:smile:
I just wanted to mention, that if you can smell it, Sweet or Stink, you might be breathing in the Cyanogen Gases that might be released during curing..
Not knocking you post Dave, :smile: But, that sweetness might lead a person to stay in the fumes longer..
Just thought I'd mention the Safety part...
Reply to Dave S. -
"obv i not encouraging you to snort the stuff...lol"
Yes Dave, I knew that.
.. Just was speaking in general..Just for thought..:smile:
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The sweetness is the accelerator, not the glue. Be careful with your experiment. CA finishes get knocked on by a lot of people because they have been known to chip & flake & get brittle. They can also be tough to do & even tougher to make look good. The gas is toxic & will burn your eyes nose & throat, so it's only logical that it'll damage your lungs. Be careful.
The correct CA brand & viscosity is, IMO, stronger & more durable than automotive clear. It's harder to do & make look good, but it is a little faster from raw stock to polish. Not all CA's are created equal, so don't get discouraged if it doesn't work out so well at first. Try different brands & note the differences.
I have used every finish commonly known to cuemaking, and a well applied & high grade CA is as good as anything short of the best UV cure clears & some of the nano-tech clears. Don't ever be afraid to try anything, just be safe about it. Don't get complacent, either, or else you'll find you have been surpassed & need to catch up again. Finishes are tough if done correctly, no matter what you are using. You'll never avoid hard work if you want a great finish. You can do it with CA but it's a tough friggin job.
The correct CA brand & viscosity is, IMO, stronger & more durable than automotive clear. It's harder to do & make look good, but it is a little faster from raw stock to polish. Not all CA's are created equal, so don't get discouraged if it doesn't work out so well at first. Try different brands & note the differences.
I have used every finish commonly known to cuemaking, and a well applied & high grade CA is as good as anything short of the best UV cure clears & some of the nano-tech clears. Don't ever be afraid to try anything, just be safe about it. Don't get complacent, either, or else you'll find you have been surpassed & need to catch up again. Finishes are tough if done correctly, no matter what you are using. You'll never avoid hard work if you want a great finish. You can do it with CA but it's a tough friggin job.
Make sure you use a respirator (and don't forget to shave those beards off when you do).
I also blow a fan across the top of the lathe straight out my shop window to help vent the off-gassing, that helps keep the eye irritation down. I don't blow the fan on the cue, but about a 12"-16" above. Seems to work pretty well.
My next project is going to be a down draft table that sits on the lathe ways and hooks up to my collection system. That way the lathe bed is covered to keep the drips off it too.
Now just got to get around to it.
I also blow a fan across the top of the lathe straight out my shop window to help vent the off-gassing, that helps keep the eye irritation down. I don't blow the fan on the cue, but about a 12"-16" above. Seems to work pretty well.
My next project is going to be a down draft table that sits on the lathe ways and hooks up to my collection system. That way the lathe bed is covered to keep the drips off it too.
Now just got to get around to it.
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Thanks for all the great advice!
All I am going to finish with the ca is the shaft. I figured this would be a good finish to try, but I want to do it right.
All I am going to finish with the ca is the shaft. I figured this would be a good finish to try, but I want to do it right.
dave sutton
Banned
obv i not encouraging you to snort the stuff...lol
but if i do happen to get a wiff im not gagging. it also doesnt burn your eyes at all. doesnt smoke like other ca's i have use. the smell is sweet right from the bottle even when not in contact with the superglue so its not the fumes.
but if i do happen to get a wiff im not gagging. it also doesnt burn your eyes at all. doesnt smoke like other ca's i have use. the smell is sweet right from the bottle even when not in contact with the superglue so its not the fumes.
When you say "brown pump bottle", are you talking about the "super-gold" label BSI stuff then? Not sure what the pump bottle is, but is this the stuff you're talking about?
http://www.bsiadhesives.com/Pages/hobby/oca.html
So far I've done just some sample pieces with the gold. It polishes up real nice and is not irritating, but at double the price or more, it adds up pretty quick. The blue bottle stuff and a respirator works pretty good for us trying to save a buck. Of course, YMMV.
http://www.bsiadhesives.com/Pages/hobby/oca.html
So far I've done just some sample pieces with the gold. It polishes up real nice and is not irritating, but at double the price or more, it adds up pretty quick. The blue bottle stuff and a respirator works pretty good for us trying to save a buck. Of course, YMMV.
if i was using CA as a finish i would get the non-whitening kind,i think made from butyl.there are other non-whitening but they are expensive.
CA actually makes a decent finish for shafts,but everytime i try it it turns out to be more work than painting so i always paint.
the Loctite professional they sell at Home Depot,etc works pretty well if you can't find non-whitening stuff.
i would think the accelerator would actually cause whitening but i haven't tried it.the first 4-5 coats go on pretty quick and easy anyway.after that you need to wait a little while between coats.
CA actually makes a decent finish for shafts,but everytime i try it it turns out to be more work than painting so i always paint.
the Loctite professional they sell at Home Depot,etc works pretty well if you can't find non-whitening stuff.
i would think the accelerator would actually cause whitening but i haven't tried it.the first 4-5 coats go on pretty quick and easy anyway.after that you need to wait a little while between coats.
masonh said:
It is very important that you do not touch the finish with your hands untill the finish is completely dry. It will leave white marks if you do, sometimes they can be hard to see and you will apply more glue to the cue and trap them in. When you buff out the finish they will show up like sore thumbs. Not much fun.