acme 3/8-10 tap
- Thread starter CDs cues
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when having taps made its always best to have more then one this takes the cost down we deal with a company in our shop that makes taps if your interested i could check and see what they would you to have made
remember there are many grades of taps you get what you pay for this company is top shelf when it comes to taps its called tapco hope this helps a little...lee
remember there are many grades of taps you get what you pay for this company is top shelf when it comes to taps its called tapco hope this helps a little...lee
dave sutton
Banned
Prather can get em.
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RocketQ said:
John,
I saw some rod the other day, and It was 3/8-10 acme. It came in both left hand and right hand twist. Kind of expensive though, so may be special grind, I'm really not sure Myself. I was thinking It may be cool to make some pins from, and I was wondering the same thing, where to get a acme tap to match.
Greg
Call Tom if you can get a hold of him.Cue Crazy said:
JoeyInCali said:
Well I tell ya Joey, It was really just a thought I was toying with, because I knew that being a custom thread, odds are I'd have to have one grinded, and that would cost Me.
Yeah I've heard He's been staying busy. One of these days when I can spare the extra change, what I still, really need to try and get him to make me, are some carbide mandrels. He makes some of the best looking sets I have ever seen. He certainly does nice work.
Greg
Why mess around with other pins?Cue Crazy said:
He makes 3/8 10 with or w/out the barrel. They are da nuts.
I already have the ball screw carbide. If not I might have switched to 3/8 10 acme with .308 minor.
JoeyInCali said:
Hmm, I think you may have struck a thinking nerve
I'm reaming & tapping with right at about a .308 minor as It is now, with the standard 3/8-10 tap, so the females actually look like acme threads. Is there a difference in the pitch/angle of the threads? Wondering If the tap I have now will work. I'm not sure what the minor was on the acme rod I saw for sale though. Also it may have been hardened. I'd have to go back and look to be sure.Yeah I don't know why I like to make them, I guess I like the idea of doing that Myself too. The only thing that could be better to me would be to turn the threads too, but I'm not set up with the correct TPI to feed the thread. It's alot of work though, because I like to shine them up like chrome, so It's not about the costs per pin with the time I waste on them. One other reason though, Is I like to centerdrill them so I can work off centers with the cue, and I have no issues with run out. In the past, even if a pin had a center, It seemed I could never depend on It to be true. I have never used Tom's pins though, but they look nice from I remember, and I'm sure with the quality he puts out that I probably wouldn't have any troubles. Does he make his with center holes? I also I like to turn the nose & polish the exposed ends of My pins before I install them, and like to use the center for that, but mostly because I like finishing up a few parts of the build between centers.
I've been real happy with the way I've been doing them, I'm using full threaded pins all the way into the forearm, with no alignment issues. Goes in straight for me everytime so far. Having the same luck with the shafts as well. I do need to buy some rod though for more consistency, I won't mention where I got them, but I bought some raw pins, was using them to make Mine from, and half of them had a larger minor then the others. So I ended up with 5 of 10 useable with My current setup, unless I want to ream a larger ID to fit the others. I use a six flute carbide reamer that I got a deal on, and to get a larger one like It could be costly to have made & hard to find one already made, not worth It on something I can control with buying My own rod in full lenths. I installed one of the larger pins By opening It up with a small boring bar, but I still like using the reamer better.
Greg
Cue Crazy said:
I got my twp pc, set of taps from Widell. Hold on to your shorts, their not cheap but they are good.
Michael Webb said:
I apprietiate the info MIke,
If You don't mind me asking, are You running 2 taps, or is one a drill/reamer?
I have another standard 3/8-10 tap I follow with sometimes if the major is too snug, but unless I need that I just use My reamer & the piloted tap.
Thanks Greg
Cue Crazy said:
Hi Greg
I use both taps, the first one is actually undersized, to take some pressure off the wood. To go in with the full size will most like just tear it up. Just to much to fast. By the way, most of the Cue makers who have used this pin have stopped using it.
Michael Webb said:
Thank You for the info, good stuff, And makes good sense to Me. I guess I think of multi tap systems being mostly used in metal or other material aplications, but It makes just as much sense if not more with wood too. It sure can tear out alot easier.
I'd try getting a custom thread grinder made.Cue Crazy said:Thank You for the info, good stuff, And makes good sense to Me. I guess I think of multi tap systems being mostly used in metal or other material aplications, but It makes just as much sense if not more with wood too. It sure can tear out alot easier.
