Addicted Triangle Duds

[Vahmurka]

I suppose pressing layered tips hard enough could cause delaminating issues in future. I had one customer though who asked to press a Moori Q because he liked them but even Q was not hard enough. He didn't report any problems, but maybe he just got lucky

 

[HueblerHustler7]

I suppose pressing layered tips hard enough could cause delaminating issues in future. I had one customer though who asked to press a Moori Q because he liked them but even Q was not hard enough. He didn't report any problems, but maybe he just got lucky

I agree with this also, never tried it as I am not a fan of layered tips in the first place but thats just me. But I have heard some people like to soak and press or just plain press there layered tip just to eliminate the break in period for playability, this is also subjective.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Barney, you could try and get a milling vise at a pawn shop or at least a cheap one and rig it somehow to use a torque wrench with it.

Usually, one can find cheap torque wrenches at a pawn shop as well. Once you got onto it and found how much pressure you wanted, you could get pretty darn consistant with one of those wrenches.

 

[BarneyCalip]

Good Idea

Blu, thanks for the idea.
I will look for a mill vise.
I already have a good Torque wrench.

 

[arps]

I agree with this also, never tried it as I am not a fan of layered tips in the first place but thats just me. But I have heard some people like to soak and press or just plain press there layered tip just to eliminate the break in period for playability, this is also subjective.

been pressing and using emerald tips for about 2 years now. my friends also ask me to have theirs pressed as well. so far, the tip is consistent - doesnt mushroom and holds chalk very well. i use white glue + water as soaking solution.

 

[JoseV]

been pressing and using emerald tips for about 2 years now. my friends also ask me to have theirs pressed as well. so far, the tip is consistent - doesnt mushroom and holds chalk very well. i use white glue + water as soaking solution.

As I'm Elmer's glue ?

 

[arps]

As I'm Elmer's glue ?

yup. elmer's white glue.

i mix it with water, just the right amount to lessen the glue's viscosity so that the tip is able to absorb the mixture easily.

 

[HueblerHustler7]

yup. elmer's white glue.

i mix it with water, just the right amount to lessen the glue's viscosity so that the tip is able to absorb the mixture easily.

Ive heard of this solution for soaking as well, have not tried it yet maybe I will experiment eventually :thumbup: thanks

 

[geocheren]

I thought about making milk duds too. One problem that I ran into was the dome on the tips (triangle, lepro, or elk master), after pressing them they would disappear. Start off dime shape, and end up nearly flat. That lead me to think that the pressure would be uneven, center would get the most, then the sides.
So I made a tip press contraption that would compensate for the dome.

The shape it has is Dime Shape, so when it was pressed, the tip dome has even pressure applied.

Anyone venture to guess how it was made?

 

[HueblerHustler7]

I thought about making milk duds too. One problem that I ran into was the dome on the tips (triangle, lepro, or elk master), after pressing them they would disappear. Start off dime shape, and end up nearly flat. That lead me to think that the pressure would be uneven, center would get the most, then the sides.
So I made a tip press contraption that would compensate for the dome.

The shape it has is Dime Shape, so when it was pressed, the tip dome has even pressure applied.

Anyone venture to guess how it was made?

THAT my good Sir is awesome, thank you for sharing. As of right now I am using the ultimate tip tool dime radius without the sand pad to press my tips. I think I may ask Jon Spitz to make me a tip press out of G10 or some type of phenolic material. Thanks for the idea

 

[arps]

I thought about making milk duds too. One problem that I ran into was the dome on the tips (triangle, lepro, or elk master), after pressing them they would disappear. Start off dime shape, and end up nearly flat. That lead me to think that the pressure would be uneven, center would get the most, then the sides.

that is right. pressing "pre-shaped" tips as is would create uneven results - hard on the center and softer on the side/edges.
so what i do is sand-off the "dome" part of the tip and flatten it first before i press it. this way, the force is equally distributed when pressing, and of course the hardness is distributed evenly as well throughout the tip.

 

[Pre-Flag Master]

that is right. pressing "pre-shaped" tips as is would create uneven results - hard on the center and softer on the side/edges.
so what i do is sand-off the "dome" part of the tip and flatten it first before i press it. this way, the force is equally distributed when pressing, and of course the hardness is distributed evenly as well throughout the tip.

It would depend on how the dome shape was created in the first place. If the assumption is that the dome was created by cutting, and that assumption is correct, then OK fine.

But could it be that the dome shape is created by the way the tips are pressed at the factory in the first place?

Further, why would harder in the middle be a bad thing anyway? That's where tips lose their shape, by flattening out. And that's where you don't miscue. Softer on the outer edges would give better cue ball grip when applying spin. So maybe harder in the middle and softer on the edges is a good thing..... maybe.

Fatz

 

[geocheren]

THAT my good Sir is awesome, thank you for sharing. As of right now I am using the ultimate tip tool dime radius without the sand pad to press my tips. I think I may ask Jon Spitz to make me a tip press out of G10 or some type of phenolic material. Thanks for the idea

I can send you those 4 for testing if you want. I dont know if they will work.
Let me know if you want dime or nickel, or even penny radius. Right now they are dime, the other radius will have to be made.

Take a guess as to how they were made.

 

[arps]

It would depend on how the dome shape was created in the first place. If the assumption is that the dome was created by cutting, and that assumption is correct, then OK fine.

But could it be that the dome shape is created by the way the tips are pressed at the factory in the first place?

good points. that, we have to find out - if it was pressed already during manufacturing or cut to attain its shape. to know which one is to determine the hardness of the tip at the center and side.

Further, why would harder in the middle be a bad thing anyway? That's where tips lose their shape, by flattening out. And that's where you don't miscue. Softer on the outer edges would give better cue ball grip when applying spin. So maybe harder in the middle and softer on the edges is a good thing..... maybe.
Fatz

for me, having a soft spot on the side of the tip could increase the probability of mushroom-ing, as well as deforming the side of the tip during miscues. although i'm sure that different tips would have different elasticities, and quality of tip (material) is still a factor.

 

[Pre-Flag Master]

for me, having a soft spot on the side of the tip could increase the probability of mushroom-ing, as well as deforming the side of the tip during miscues. although i'm sure that different tips would have different elasticities, and quality of tip (material) is still a factor.

I'm not saying that the outer edges of the tip should be "soft". I'm saying "softer relative to the center". It might not be a bad thing.

Fatz

 

[BarneyCalip]

Working on mySetup for Milk Duds

I found this in my garage.
Going to take off the the little table to mount a Dial Indicator and Force gauge.
I have a Dial Indicator.
Going to San Jose and look for a used Force gauge.

I will have to Design a holding fixture and take it to a small machine shop to make.

Picone presse's should be arriving today.

Lets see Pressure, I think Pressure = Force / Surface area of Tip.
Will be doing a "Design of Experiment" to make consistent tips.

 

[HueblerHustler7]

I can send you those 4 for testing if you want. I dont know if they will work.
Let me know if you want dime or nickel, or even penny radius. Right now they are dime, the other radius will have to be made.

Take a guess as to how they were made.

Honestly I have no idea what material you used lol you'd have to fill us all in on your secret. As for sending me some It would depend on the hardness of the material you are using, right now I'm using aircraft grade aluminum so its pretty strong and transfers a good amount of pressure to the tip instead of giving any.

As for this thread looks like soaked and pressed tips aren't just something of the past and are still thriving threw the pool/billiard community.

 

[HueblerHustler7]

I found this in my garage.
Going to take off the the little table to mount a Dial Indicator and Force gauge.
I have a Dial Indicator.
Going to San Jose and look for a used Force gauge.

I will have to Design a holding fixture and take it to a small machine shop to make.

Picone presse's should be arriving today.

Lets see Pressure, I think Pressure = Force / Surface area of Tip.
Will be doing a "Design of Experiment" to make consistent tips.


View attachment 262950

View attachment 262951

Awesome man, let us know if you get any good results :thumbup:

 

[geocheren]

Honestly I have no idea what material you used lol you'd have to fill us all in on your secret. As for sending me some It would depend on the hardness of the material you are using, right now I'm using aircraft grade aluminum so its pretty strong and transfers a good amount of pressure to the tip instead of giving any.

they are made from plastic, laminated plastic in a way. I believe, when the plastic is stacked together the material is stronger than leather used in tips. When pressing against the tip and aircraft aluminum, the tip gives in before the plastic.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Elmer's Multi Purpose cut with water. Now that sounds interesting.

It is said that the sugar in the milk is what makes the leather stick.

So you are helping it out with glue. I will give it a try. Thanks for the Tip. No pun intended of course.