Adding a Buckhorn Half-Joint?

BWTadpole

BWTadpole

The Nitcracker
Silver Member
I just bought a titlist conversion, and I'm interested in adding a buckhorn half-joint to the existing black phenolic joint. I've seen titlists with an ivory half-joint bordered on both sides by thick black phenolic, and that joint makes the whole look of the cue. My current player's got a buckhorn half-joint sleeved. Would it be possible to add this joint to the cue and keep some of the black phenolic on there? Here's a photo of what I'm working with.

DSC03361.jpg
 
a cuemaker is bound to chime in soon. I am not however I would be led to believe that almost any cuemaker would be able to turn some of that joint down and sleeve a piece of the buckhorn on. You would have to leave enough of the joint towards the points to match the thickness on the shaft and then the rest can be buckhorn. Somebody will answer before tonight is over I'm sure. Good luck. Rob.
 
BWTadpole said:
I just bought a titlist conversion, and I'm interested in adding a buckhorn half-joint to the existing black phenolic joint. I've seen titlists with an ivory half-joint bordered on both sides by thick black phenolic, and that joint makes the whole look of the cue. My current player's got a buckhorn half-joint sleeved. Would it be possible to add this joint to the cue and keep some of the black phenolic on there? Here's a photo of what I'm working with.


I have made a couple of cues with Ivory Half joints, and one of them is my personal player which was the first. I have used the cue to break with and played it hard for quite awhile with no negative results, including chips.

Here are some photo's.

Joint 2.jpg

15.jpg

cue.jpg

butt 3.jpg


Oh and by the way, this cue is a Brunswick 26 1/2 Pre-Titlist cue made in the 1920's

Take care
Click to expand...
 
a9ballbr8k said:
a cuemaker is bound to chime in soon. I am not however I would be led to believe that almost any cuemaker would be able to turn some of that joint down and sleeve a piece of the buckhorn on. You would have to leave enough of the joint towards the points to match the thickness on the shaft and then the rest can be buckhorn. Somebody will answer before tonight is over I'm sure. Good luck. Rob.
Click to expand...

Exactly my thoughts. It's a whole lot of phenolic on the cue, so I figure that wouldn't be that unheard of.
 
i would do this, hope im understanding your question right lol

so you want the phenolic to be in the middle of the joint?:confused: b/t the buttface:p and the face of the shaft? If you just want to sleeve over the phenolic with the buckhorn then just turn it down and tap/turn threads on the I.D. of the buckhorn and the female on the O.D of the turned down penolic.

If your wanting the phenolic to cap the buckhorn then turn the old phenolic off down to the wood, take a new piece of phenolic and dril and bore it to fit the tennon and tap if possible, and thread tennon, now use your right hand cutter to put a tennon on the new phenolic sleeve then drill and tap the buck horn and thread it on the sleeve from the bottom side, once its all glued up then and is dry/set just cut the joint off the phenolic stock, just just your cutting tool or a bandsaw and cut the phenolic off the rod leaving about at 1/4" cap then just pop it back in the lathe and face it off and drill the face out and to accept the pin leaving whatever cap thickness desired.

By the way you can compression fit the sleeve and joint etc, but if you can cut threads its always nice, in regards to machine cutting. If i could not machine the fine threads then i would not hand tap them i would rather just compression fit the material.

hope that helps,
Grey GHost
 
GG, what I want to do is take off some of the phenolic -- from the pin down -- so that the thickness of the phenolic left on the forearm and on the shaft collar are equal. When the cue's put together, it would look black-white-black at the joint.
 
i understand at least i hope so lol, just watch out for the chickens foot....

oh ok then i would still do it the way i mentioned on the second paragraph.

Except when I turn the phenolic down and remove it from the wooden tennon on the butt joint just measure the desired thickness you want on the bottom phenolic backer mark it and turn down the rest of the old phenolic joint to the wooden tennon, which will basically leave you with a phenolic ring on the bottom of the joint.

Then I'd just continue with the technique i stated in the second paragraph. Make a tennoned, capped and drilled phenolic sleeve thread it if you wish and sleeve the buckhorn on to the bottom and glue and seat it bottomed out at the cap. Cut the top cap to desired thickness and your phenolic sleeved and capped buck horn is ready to install on the joint. Let it dry, match it up, face it off and its ready for finish or polishing.

Pretty easy job if you have everything you need then just about a day or so completion time depending on the adhesive used and type of finish.

A little advice tho. When turning items and drilling or boring material with a thiner wall its a good idea to especially take your time and make smaller passes. I also recommend using a worm clamp and snug it up on the O.D. to reduce the likely hood of the material exploding in your face if the cutting bit happens to bite in for some reason or other. Electrical tape works also. Its good to curtail damaging the part being worked on, but shrapnel is what I worry about more. Tho tape doesn't hold back up as good as a worm clamp it will definately work in regards to keeping you safer while working. Thats whats most important. Wood bone or ivory could explode and put your eye out, if the voodoo lady hid a chicken foot in your shop it could explode and take your jugular out.

Joints can kill lol...just say no to unsafe acts :)

thats Good Gris Gris,
-Grey Ghost
 
Easy enough to do. I personally like the buckhorn half-joints as well as ivory half joints. As mentioned above, the phenolic can be turned down and the buckhorn sleeved or threaded right on over the phenolic or even maybe over the existing wood (doesn't really matter). It would be very simple to do it....but keep in mind about the existing finish and if you would need to have it refinished or if maybe the finish can be feathered in or something.

Are you needing to send it to someone or are you doing it yourself? Let me know because I have a lot of buckhorn and if you need some I can cut a piece for you. I use buckhorn on the cues I've been working on, here is the first one I posted on AZ:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=178717

Everything white(ish) in that cue is buckhorn, except the logo. I have others in the process too which have utilized buckhorn pieces.
 
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