Advice On This Thin Shot

DrCue'sProtege

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
lately i have been having alot of thin cut shots into the corner pocket. here is the shot:

along the short rail, about 6" to 8" from the corner pocket, and about 2" off the short rail. cue ball sitting near the center of the table.

while this shot is very tough it can be made. problem is that its so thin you have to hit it hard, and therefore somewhat lose control of the cue ball. and if its early in the rack and there are several other balls on the table you just hope the pool gods are with you for position or a shot on the next ball.

anybody have any advice for this shot?
it seems like this is a shot i have been having alot lately, and its causing me all kinds of problems.
DCP
 
Oh my, well you can take this or leave it because I'm very sure that I'm not the most qualified person on the forum to answer this question. All I can say is how I approach this shot and other similar situations.

I think generally you do have to hit this shot with some authority, but more times than not you probably don't have to hit it as hard as you do hit it. Remember the object ball doesn't have very far to go.

Playing much english on this shot adds much more difficulty, but you can really very how far the cue goes after the hit. If you need the cue to go a ways, no problem. The problem arises when you don't want the cue to go very far. I don't know if I'm using the right term for this but a stun shot is what I use in this case. Where your using a draw type shot to allow you to hit the cue just hard enough to keep it online, but the draw slows it down to just the speed you need to get the object ball to the pocket and minimizing the amount the cue comes off the rail after the shot.

That is the best solution I can come up with for this tough situation.

CaptJR
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
...problem is that its so thin you have to hit it hard, and therefore somewhat lose control of the cue ball. and if its early in the rack and there are several other balls on the table you just hope the pool gods are with you for position or a shot on the next ball...

I would think that a good rule of thumb is that if it is early in the match and you don't have a high percenage shape opportunity then the best thing to do is play safe. If it is early in the rack there are a lot of balls to hide behind.
 
My suggestion. Shoot hard with top-spin. You'll cut the object ball in, and the top-spin will stop the cueball about 6 inches from the rail after it hits it. Its a beautiful shot, and very reliable.

(note sarcastic grin)

cheers,
jer9ball
 
jer9ball said:
My suggestion. Shoot hard with top-spin. You'll cut the object ball in, and the top-spin will stop the cueball about 6 inches from the rail after it hits it. Its a beautiful shot, and very reliable.

(note sarcastic grin)

cheers,
jer9ball

____________________________________________________________

Up close cuts, you can twirl in, using max English, 3 tips running. For long cuts, accuracy is the key, use only center ball and a open bridge, shoot hard, if you hit the contact point, the shot goes, no English is needed unless the shot is over 80 degrees. Everything under that goes with center ball.
 
my advice: in order to make these shots more consistently I will often aim beyond the ball... in other words ...consider aiming at the spot on the rail behind the ball that you need to hit in order for the object ball to be cut in. give it an honest stroke too.may not work for you but it works well for me. ;)
 
First of all, don't hit it hard - hit it smooth and easy with center ball. Thin cuts do not need to be hit hard and that's about the biggest mistake you can make on them.


A cut like this is aiming at a really big pocket. If you find you need more speed on the object ball with a soft stroke, it's because you're aiming too thin.

This shot you're suggesting is not all that thin. Hit it smooth and easy with center ball. If you find your cueball heading toward the opposite corner pocket, aim a little thicker on the object ball - that should straighten you out.

If you're still heading toward the corner after you take a bigger slice, use about a half tip of outside but keep the stroke smooth and easy and the cue level.

In general it's really good for your game to practice hitting razor sharp cuts with an easy stroke. Then, when your're faced with a super thin cut shot, instead of aiming thick to thin, aim to cut it super thin and adjust to a thicker slice from there.

It's hard to control position on cut shots until you can accurately guage the amount of cut you're taking.

Chris
 
I like what captinjr said, I've always called it a drag shot where the QB slides most of the way and rolls out softly into the OB. If I'm not mistaken didn't you(drcuepro.) just switch to using a predator? I found when I got my 314 I noticed the difference on thin shots also I think because you tend to spin them to keep/get back control.
 
I like what the other posters said, I would just reiterate what some of them said:

1. Shoot the infinite line aim.
2. You can spin it in with outside english if you need it for shape or you don't want to hit it hard - the spin will offset the need for speed.
3. Pretend the pocket is just 2 inches away, it makes the shot easier.
4. Play the safe if a good one is available, for instance if there are other balls to hide behind.
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
lately i have been having alot of thin cut shots into the corner pocket. here is the shot:

along the short rail, about 6" to 8" from the corner pocket, and about 2" off the short rail. cue ball sitting near the center of the table.

while this shot is very tough it can be made. problem is that its so thin you have to hit it hard, and therefore somewhat lose control of the cue ball. and if its early in the rack and there are several other balls on the table you just hope the pool gods are with you for position or a shot on the next ball.

anybody have any advice for this shot?
it seems like this is a shot i have been having alot lately, and its causing me all kinds of problems.
DCP


aim to overcut, since hitting the ball hard makes you hit the ob too full.

also,,,,mika says he "clicks" the cb,,,whatever the F that means. sounds like a feely touchy thing.
 
Just spin it in with extreme left or right english. It's a 2-way shot, either you make it or miss and leave a long shot for your opponent. Cut to the left, extreme right english and vice versa. It's a low percentage shot no matter what you do but the CB control is what matters. Works for me, give it a try.
 
Rude Dog said:
Just spin it in with extreme left or right english. It's a 2-way shot, either you make it or miss and leave a long shot for your opponent. Cut to the left, extreme right english and vice versa. It's a low percentage shot no matter what you do but the CB control is what matters. Works for me, give it a try.

Rude Dog,

I don't think you realize that this ball is only 6 - 8 inches from the corner pocket, and 2" off the short rail - the cueball is in the center of the table.

This ball is a hanger for you and me and we can put the cue ball anywhere on the table we want from there with very little spin.

Here's the shot on the WEI table. Just copy the code , click on the table link, and paste it onto the table.

Chris

START(%AD5G7%PY8P3)END

WEI Table
 
Last edited:
DrCue'sProtege said:
lately i have been having alot of thin cut shots into the corner pocket. here is the shot:

along the short rail, about 6" to 8" from the corner pocket, and about 2" off the short rail. cue ball sitting near the center of the table.

while this shot is very tough it can be made. problem is that its so thin you have to hit it hard, and therefore somewhat lose control of the cue ball. and if its early in the rack and there are several other balls on the table you just hope the pool gods are with you for position or a shot on the next ball.

anybody have any advice for this shot?
it seems like this is a shot i have been having alot lately, and its causing me all kinds of problems.
DCP
This is an easy shot for any B player, so I have to assume you are just starting out.

Ignore the people who tell you to spin the ball in. They are confused.

First, try the shot in the simplest way possible: roll the cue ball with just enough speed to pocket the object ball. This is not the best way to shoot on a crooked table, but on good equipment, it is one way you need to be able to shoot. If you must, play it as a drag shot, but just barely get the object ball over the brink. Note where the cue ball goes. It probably goes up the table parallel to the long cushion. Note how far it goes for your best soft shot. This is the starting point for playing position on this shot.

Next, try a little left or right english -- just half a tip, not three tips like somebody joked earlier. See where the cue ball goes. Try a little more english until your percentages get bad; if you can make the shot less than 50% you need to find something else to do.

Once you have the slow shots ready, try upping the speed a little to move the cue ball to specific places on the table. Always have a specific place in mind for the cue ball.

Good luck.
 
TATE said:
Rude Dog,

I don't think you realize that this ball is only 6 - 8 inches from the corner pocket, and 2" off the short rail - the cueball is in the center of the table.

This ball is a hanger for you and me and we can put the cue ball anywhere on the table we want from there with very little spin.

Here's the shot on the WEI table. Just copy the code , click on the table link, and paste it onto the table.

Chris

START(%AD5G7%PY8P3)END

WEI Table
I don't understand how the WEI table works but I still think spinning the ball in works. If it's just a thin cut, then do that and send the CB up and down the table if there is nothing in the way. An OB can be cut in if it was just off the rail, on the middle diamond and the CB was in the middle of the table, so how can it not work for this shot? It depends on what you want to do with the CB of course, but to just make the ball, I use the spin.
 
Rude Dog said:
I don't understand how the WEI table works but I still think spinning the ball in works. If it's just a thin cut, then do that and send the CB up and down the table if there is nothing in the way. An OB can be cut in if it was just off the rail, on the middle diamond and the CB was in the middle of the table, so how can it not work for this shot? It depends on what you want to do with the CB of course, but to just make the ball, I use the spin.

Rude Dog,

To use the Wei table:

1. highlight the text describing the shot such as:
START(%AD5G7%PY8P3)END
You can highlight it by moving your mouse pointer over the start of the text and well holding the left mouse button down move the pointer to the end of the text and releasing the left mouse button. The text should now be highlighted.

2. Now that the text is highlighted go to the menu and click "edit" in the sub-menu click "copy". The text that was highlighted is now copied to the clipboard.

3. Bring up the wei table (see link provided in previous message).
After it is up click the button labeled "paste". It will then ask a couple of questions just click ok on them and when they clear the layout being communicated will be shown on the Wei table.

I hope this helps.
 
Bob Jewett said:
This is an easy shot for any B player, so I have to assume you are just starting out.

Ignore the people who tell you to spin the ball in. They are confused.

First, try the shot in the simplest way possible: roll the cue ball with just enough speed to pocket the object ball. This is not the best way to shoot on a crooked table, but on good equipment, it is one way you need to be able to shoot. If you must, play it as a drag shot, but just barely get the object ball over the brink. Note where the cue ball goes. It probably goes up the table parallel to the long cushion. Note how far it goes for your best soft shot. This is the starting point for playing position on this shot.

Next, try a little left or right english -- just half a tip, not three tips like somebody joked earlier. See where the cue ball goes. Try a little more english until your percentages get bad; if you can make the shot less than 50% you need to find something else to do.

Once you have the slow shots ready, try upping the speed a little to move the cue ball to specific places on the table. Always have a specific place in mind for the cue ball.

Good luck.


___________________________________________________________-

Mr. Jewett sir, please, when you tell people to ignore those saying on some cut shots to twirl the ball in, using max running throwing english, you sir tell them to ignore most of the pro world who does this, dozens of hall of famers who have taught this on their teaching videos over the years. It is a vital technique to make tough cuts frozen on rails. How can all of these greats be wrong and confused dear sir I may now ask of you? A smart teacher, teaches what the great players actually do, and understands how and why they do it.

Give me a 75 degree cut, shot to pocket to my left, I am close up so deflection or squirt is not a consideration, Using 3 trips right level cue at 3:00 which kills the deflection, will throw and kick the object ball into the pocket. You can make greater cuts doing this than using center ball. I recommended using center ball for long shots because unless you are a pro, the shot will deflect and alter on the amateurs and they will never hit the aim point and miss every time. All of these hall of famers did this sir, because it works, none of them, were confused.
 
Last edited:
ramdadingdong said:
___________________________________________________________-

Mr. Jewett sir, please, when you tell people to ignore those saying on some cut shots to twirl the ball in, using max running throwing english, you sir tell them to ignore most of the pro world who does this, dozens of hall of famers who have taught this on their teaching videos over the years. It is a vital technique to make tough cuts frozen on rails.

I don't think you realize that this ball is only 6 - 8 inches from the corner pocket, and 2" off the short rail - the cueball is in the center of the table.

Larry, the shot in question was not frozen, but 2" off the rail as quoted from the original poster.
 
Frank_Glenn said:
Larry, the shot in question was not frozen, but 2" off the rail as quoted from the original poster.

______________________________________________________________-

If you read what I wrote sir, you will understand, I understand, it does not matter, what I said is the twirl works on both shots, open or froze.
Who's Larry, I am ramda. I have red dot on forehead, I answer phones for computer companies in Calcutta because I work cheaper than Americans do.
 
ramdadingdong said:
Mr. Jewett sir, please ...[misc crud deleted] .
Hey, DCP, among the confused, remember especially to ignore Larry/ramda/whomever.
 
Back
Top